OK so I got a wood stove for my garage I know virtually nothing about them and I am gonna try to do it myself. I just bought a new pleasent hearth 2200 sq ft epaulets stove. So since I don't trust the gaskets for the corrugated metal roof I am planning on going out the wall. I plan on using a 15 or 30 degree offset kit outside to go around the gutter. Have a wall kit with your clean out android thimble. Pretty much just looking to make sure I won't have draft issues with my installation plan there will be 8' of single pipe inside than 90 to thimble to clean out T and probably another 8' or so of vertical rise outside with tripe wall pipe and the offset kit to get out around gutter. I have pictures of garage roof and stove and eve I need to go around
New to woodstoves doing my own install
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Ya I am aware of the 2 ft above 10 ft away rule and plan on following that. I'm worried though about having so many bends in epa stove and every picture I see has chimney 90 right after stove but I wanted to retain heat from keeping some chimney inside
Based on what I've read the ideal setup would be straight out the top, no bends. The stove pipe will stay warmer inside the building which means a better draft, in addition no 90 degree bends will help the draft and you will recover more heat from the stove pipe.
Any particular reason you don't trust the roof gasket setup? Straight and out seems so much simpler in this case.
Any particular reason you don't trust the roof gasket setup? Straight and out seems so much simpler in this case.
Just don't see how that rubber gasket getting hot and cold over time won't leak and be a constant pain I could be over thinking it. I have also heard about some people with so much vertical pipe having too much draft and not being able to control Temps
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
Another vote for going straight up. Hopefully one of the sweeps will check in with some tips on hardware needed to assure no leaks. It can be done, that much I know..
But I dunno how much you are going to raise the temp in that place, even with insulation.
But I dunno how much you are going to raise the temp in that place, even with insulation.
I would without a doubt go straight out. I just use standard flashing and cut it into the roof so the top slides under the roof and the bottom sitts ontop. It works well
Nobody I could find makes flashing for the corrugated roofs.. The only reason I planned on going through the wall is the few installers in my area all said they would go out the wall if hired to do the job because of leaking problems with the roof
Like i said i just use standard flashing nothing special. I have used some made for corregated metal but didnt find them any easier.
double-d
Feeling the Heat
Ya that's the gasket I didn't trust after heating up and cooling down so many times. I am also worried overdraft issues with close to 20' of straight vertical rise. Is that not a thing?
I wouldn't use that for class a chimney.
FWIW our flue is 20' straight up. Drafts perfectly.
I was hoping I could get a copper roofer or tin knocker to make me a custom flashing for my roof since it's not quite the same as corrugated metal but does have the bumps in it but everybody I call says it's not something they usually do and are not sure how to help me out. I'm honestly starting to get a little frustrated with the while thing everyone around here has a different opinion on how it should be done and doesn't seem like they know what they're talking about the only advice I trust at all is what ice heard here so far.
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
You don't see the top edge. It's just flat metal that is slipped under a slit made in the roofing metal.
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
Ah, now I see that I didn't see it. I've ended up saying that about a lot of things.
Squisher
Minister of Fire
I'm not familiar with the OP location. But is snow or sliding snow a consideration at all? In my locale the through the wall or lower down on the roof options would be wiped out on a metal roof probably in the first season.
In Canada atleast that stoves firebox/air intake would need to be elevated 18"s min from the floor to avoid the possible intake/ignition of fumes and would need to have protection from impact as well. For a garage/shop installation.
Straight up is a far superior setup than through the wall and up. For performance and maintenance.
In Canada atleast that stoves firebox/air intake would need to be elevated 18"s min from the floor to avoid the possible intake/ignition of fumes and would need to have protection from impact as well. For a garage/shop installation.
Straight up is a far superior setup than through the wall and up. For performance and maintenance.
Straight up, easier and less expensive. Don't worry about it yourself, get a licensed chimney sweep to do it once, correctly and enjoy your new stove. The hard part is either buying properly seasoned wood for it or waiting to season properly your own wood to use- ha. Either way, enjoy.
Begreen I like the looks of that flashing better than any I've seen so far you just have to cut a slit and slide the top underneath it? That looks fairly perminant and not so cheesy.. Squisher I'm in NJ we do get snow but nothin crazy 6-8" in one storm is a huge storm here and pretty rare so I'm not too concerned with that, not that I'll make it flimsy however it ends up getting done
Excel makes 2 metal roof flashings, one for corrugated roofs like Daksy posted and one for standing seam. Instructions for both are on page 30 in the manual here:
http://icc-chimney.com/c/icc/file_db/docs_document.file_en/XLUSA-II_2012-01.pdf
http://icc-chimney.com/c/icc/file_db/docs_document.file_en/XLUSA-II_2012-01.pdf
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