Want to purchase Blaze King Chinook - have a few questions
- Thread starter ChipDouglas95
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The sides are silver, kind of like a stainless kitchen appliance. They are also available in red. Black used to be available but that's no longer available.
Diabel
Minister of Fire
I asked blaze king directly. They said they we're having trouble getting the black sides to match the rest of the stove. They are easy to remove so you could always try painting the yourself any color you want.
Okay, so everything is done finally. I think I'm going to just leave the wire. If it's okay for the wood to be that close it must not get that hot within that space. Also as far as the conduit ideas, one thing I learned when running some wire in my garage is that Romex should not be run inside conduit, which may or may not be code. Reason being that the conduit acts as insulation and the wire could overheat. Conduit should be used with individual conductors. I'm definitely not an electrician but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.
I ended up having to space the wall brackets out from the house by about 1" in order to get 2" away from where the roof shingles overlap the rake board. This pushed the vertical sections further away from the house which meant that replacing the 12" with an 18" section would only push the stove 3 1/2" further into the room which wasn't a big deal. The telescoping section would have been better but I couldn't source it locally and it's $200 as opposed to $100.
As far as ember protection, I ended up just buying cement board, making an oak trim for around it and tileing over that. It's just a temporary solution and we cracked two of the tiles try to position the stove on top of it. I actually bought a stove board from lowes but returned it because not only was it damaged but it was very low quality to begin with.
Thanks for everyone's help with this and hopefully this helps someone else who's thinking of doing something similar.
Also a quick shout out to Alan at Hart's Hearth who was willing to share his considerable knowledge and experience. I didn't buy my stove pipe from them but I should have.
Now I just need to get the building inspector out to sign off on it and I can start using it.
I ended up having to space the wall brackets out from the house by about 1" in order to get 2" away from where the roof shingles overlap the rake board. This pushed the vertical sections further away from the house which meant that replacing the 12" with an 18" section would only push the stove 3 1/2" further into the room which wasn't a big deal. The telescoping section would have been better but I couldn't source it locally and it's $200 as opposed to $100.
As far as ember protection, I ended up just buying cement board, making an oak trim for around it and tileing over that. It's just a temporary solution and we cracked two of the tiles try to position the stove on top of it. I actually bought a stove board from lowes but returned it because not only was it damaged but it was very low quality to begin with.
Thanks for everyone's help with this and hopefully this helps someone else who's thinking of doing something similar.
Also a quick shout out to Alan at Hart's Hearth who was willing to share his considerable knowledge and experience. I didn't buy my stove pipe from them but I should have.
Now I just need to get the building inspector out to sign off on it and I can start using it.
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Diabel
Minister of Fire
bushman
Burning Hunk
Wow, that looks nice, I wonder how dead flat your floor needs to be to support the weight of a 700 pound stove on glass with out it cracking.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
Zooming in on the photo, it looks like the glass may have a clear silicone pad underneath it. If so, that might buy you a sixteenth of an inch of wiggle room.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
Yeah, but imagine a 250 pound guy plus an 800 pound stove pushing down on it. If the floor isn't even.... that'll break a lot of things.
We were talking about any free standing stove, and the Woodstock is 700 Lbs. I was also thinking like you mentioned , you better have some silicone to keep the dirt from getting under, that would get ugly real quick.
I know metal on glass is real slippery, do you feel if you bumped your stove it would move easily?
Did your glass sit flat on your floor or did it wobble?
How thick is your glass, and did it come with any info or weight ratings ?
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I had a 4' x 8' x 1/2" sheet of glass door from a department store entrance and I know that thing was pretty strong. I was just curious what limitations these glass pads had and if a uneven floor would pose a problem.
:Update, I just got off the phone with a Morso dealer and they said their pads are only rated or to be used with a Morso stove.
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Its about 3/16 thick. I have an f55 on the glass and it's not slippery or easy to budge at all. It didn't come with a rating of sorts....it was sourced by the local stove shop.
My floor isn't perfectly flat and it seemed to sit high in the back but it didn't cause any problems.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
jetsam
Minister of Fire
https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/fact-fiction-glass-liquid/
Flex or no flex, I wouldn't like to try my luck seeing if a pane of glass can bend over a 1/8" ledge with 500+ pounds on it. The good news is that it's simple enough to check that the floor is flat before you order the glass.
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