Pelpro aftermarket combustion fan

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Yuneec Pilot

New Member
Jan 15, 2018
44
Bessemer, MI
Curious if anyone knows of an replacement fan for Pelpro. The blower assy is KS-5020-1040

20180130_232612.jpg 20180130_232740.jpg 20180130_232752.jpg
 
You stove was designed with the squirrel cage I wouldn’t recommend changing to the impeller blade. Unless you have a magnehelic guage and can virify the draft could be matched. Alot of testing!
 
You stove was designed with the squirrel cage I wouldn’t recommend changing to the impeller blade. Unless you have a magnehelic guage and can virify the draft could be matched. Alot of testing!
Actually I do have the gauge. I haven't checked the draft yet. It's on my list of things to do next. To make a comparison I would need to check it with the air inlet damper in a few different positions.
 
Posted on your other forum as well. Bottom link is a complete unit that should fit fairly easily, but may need some reworking. The first fan motor is from pellethead.com, so its not just another cheap ebay motor, and comes with a 1 year warranty.

I have a Pelpro flat top wood pellet stove, only a couple years of use on it. Pulling the fan and cleaning it out is considered normal maintenance, and should be done on a normal basis, depending on how much pellets, and what type, you burn. My stove went a full season and a 60 bags of Heartlands and it still wasnt bad enough to need it, but I cleaned it anyway. 10 bags seems excessive. Pelpros are great stoves, but one of the downfalls is the poor exhaust blower design, without a removable hub and the squirrel cage. I just converted mine to a housing with a removable hub, and a ball bearing fan with a paddle type impeller, which will make cleaning much easier, and I suggest you do the same, especially if your having issues like you are. I also purchased a high temp silicone gasket sheet and made all new gaskets from it so I dont have to replace them every time I clean it out. I could have went with a housing/motor assembly, and it is possible, Don2222 has a forum on here where he does it, but this is a direct fit and was in total only about $100, and if the motor needs to be replaced ever, it can be purchased by itself for $60. Also I believe an Englander exhaust fan assembly would work with a little fitting, its the last link on here.

Motor/paddle- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harman-Exhaust-Combustion-Fan-Blower-Motor-FAN-PADDLE-3-21-08639-PH-UNIVCOMB/262503697155?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=561330662004&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Housing- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pellet-Stove-Combustion-Exhaust-Blower-Housing/122961127714?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=1&asc=48498&meid=9a7cfec3465a447186853601554e9dee&pid=100011&rk=3&rkt=8&sd=112682242121&itm=122961127714&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850

You will have to make the hub that the motor mounts to out of some sheet metal with these two options,and fill one hole with rtv, but its fairly simple, . If you dont have the resources to do that, here is another link to a motor that includes a hub.

Motor/paddle/hub-
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Englander-Pellet-Stove-Combustion-Exhaust-Blower-Motor-4-3-4-Paddle-PU-076002B/172700242714?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649


Englander Exhaust Blower- https://www.homedepot.com/p/England...-Englander-Pellet-Stoves-PU-076002B/202339044
 
Last edited:
You stove was designed with the squirrel cage I wouldn’t recommend changing to the impeller blade. Unless you have a magnehelic guage and can virify the draft could be matched. Alot of testing!
Posted on your other forum as well. Bottom link is a complete unit that should fit fairly easily, but may need some reworking. The first fan motor is from pellethead.com, so its not just another cheap ebay motor, and comes with a 1 year warranty.

I have a Pelpro flat top wood pellet stove, only a couple years of use on it. Pulling the fan and cleaning it out is considered normal maintenance, and should be done on a normal basis, depending on how much pellets, and what type, you burn. My stove went a full season and a 60 bags of Heartlands and it still wasnt bad enough to need it, but I cleaned it anyway. 10 bags seems excessive. Pelpros are great stoves, but one of the downfalls is the poor exhaust blower design, without a removable hub and the squirrel cage. I just converted mine to a housing with a removable hub, and a ball bearing fan with a paddle type impeller, which will make cleaning much easier, and I suggest you do the same, especially if your having issues like you are. I also purchased a high temp silicone gasket sheet and made all new gaskets from it so I dont have to replace them every time I clean it out. I could have went with a housing/motor assembly, and it is possible, Don2222 has a forum on here where he does it, but this is a direct fit and was in total only about $100, and if the motor needs to be replaced ever, it can be purchased by itself for $60. Also I believe an Englander exhaust fan assembly would work with a little fitting, its the last link on here.

Motor/paddle- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harman-Exhaust-Combustion-Fan-Blower-Motor-FAN-PADDLE-3-21-08639-PH-UNIVCOMB/262503697155?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=561330662004&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Housing- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pellet-Stove-Combustion-Exhaust-Blower-Housing/122961127714?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=1&asc=48498&meid=9a7cfec3465a447186853601554e9dee&pid=100011&rk=3&rkt=8&sd=112682242121&itm=122961127714&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850

You will have to make the hub that the motor mounts to out of some sheet metal with these two options,and fill one hole with rtv, but its fairly simple, . If you dont have the resources to do that, here is another link to a motor that includes a hub.

Motor/paddle/hub-
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Englander-Pellet-Stove-Combustion-Exhaust-Blower-Motor-4-3-4-Paddle-PU-076002B/172700242714?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649


Englander Exhaust Blower- https://www.homedepot.com/p/England...-Englander-Pellet-Stoves-PU-076002B/202339044
So here's an update. I tried the paddle fan. It was a perfect fit. But it doesn't move enough air to activate the vacuum switch unless the air inlet is nearly closed. I used a manometer to check the old squirrel cage fan and it was about .25" of water vacuum. The paddle fan was less than half of that. Guess I'll be ordering a replacement squirrel cage assy.
 
So here's an update. I tried the paddle fan. It was a perfect fit. But it doesn't move enough air to activate the vacuum switch unless the air inlet is nearly closed. I used a manometer to check the old squirrel cage fan and it was about .25" of water vacuum. The paddle fan was less than half of that. Guess I'll be ordering a replacement squirrel cage assy.

I will sell you my original. Full assembly, $100 plus whatever for shipping.
 
So here's an update. I tried the paddle fan. It was a perfect fit. But it doesn't move enough air to activate the vacuum switch unless the air inlet is nearly closed. I used a manometer to check the old squirrel cage fan and it was about .25" of water vacuum. The paddle fan was less than half of that. Guess I'll be ordering a replacement squirrel cage assy.

Also, did you try adjusting the fan trim screw on the bottom of the control board? That will adjust the exhaust fan speed on startup and low heat setting, turn it all the way counter clockwise and back off a 1/4 turn.
 
Also, did you try adjusting the fan trim screw on the bottom of the control board? That will adjust the exhaust fan speed on startup and low heat setting, turn it all the way counter clockwise and back off a 1/4 turn.
Yes, I tried that and I could hear no difference in the fan speed. Would you normally be able to hear it?
 
Yes, I tried that and I could hear no difference in the fan speed. Would you normally be able to hear it?
Y
Yes, I tried that and I could hear no difference in the fan speed. Would you normally be able to hear it?

Yes, when I replaced mine, the original setting was much too low, and when I turned counter clockwise it speed up. I worry that the fan doesn't hav the adjustable speed like another had said. If you would like a link to the fan I got, the motor alone can be bought for $60 or so, and does work. Otherwise the offer for my original unit still stands. Only used for 2 seasons.
 
Also you may want to check the voltage to the fan. Jumper the vacuum switch so you can run it, and make sure your getting a change in voltage when switching between speeds and that you are getting the correct voltage. Just need to rule out a control board issue, but like I said, my bet is that that specific motor doesn't support variable speed.
 
Also you may want to check the voltage to the fan. Jumper the vacuum switch so you can run it, and make sure your getting a change in voltage when switching between speeds and that you are getting the correct voltage. Just need to rule out a control board issue, but like I said, my bet is that that specific motor doesn't support variable speed.
I checked the voltage and it was 122v. I would think this type of motor would use a variable frequency rather than a variable voltage, but I have no info on that. You would think at full voltage it would be running full speed.
I may indeed be interested in your blower.
 
Yeah, I guess I don't know how the variable speed works, but either way just should make sure that the control board is doing it's thing, and it sounds like it is. Just let me know on the motor, I was going to keep it as a spare, but the setup I have is working so well, if I need to replace the motor for $60 I would rather do that then change back to the old setup. I will just invoice you through PayPal if you decide to take mine, but I need to go check on shipping so it wouldn't be until tomorrow. I would think a flat rate box would be sufficient, but not sure with packing.
 
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The other option that you would have, so you don't lose out completely on the fan that you purchased, is buy the replacement motor. This is the one I got, and does work. I just worry, being that your previous fan didn't vary speed, that it maybe a control board issue. I hate to see you continue to throw $ at it and get the same results. I have a spare control board as well, but I'm not giving that up! I guess the main thing you need to do is verify that the control board is working properly. Here is the link to the motor, it's from pellet head.com's eBay store, so it's good quality. Hope you get it figured out.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/261803150930
 
The other option that you would have, so you don't lose out completely on the fan that you purchased, is buy the replacement motor. This is the one I got, and does work. I just worry, being that your previous fan didn't vary speed, that it maybe a control board issue. I hate to see you continue to throw $ at it and get the same results. I have a spare control board as well, but I'm not giving that up! I guess the main thing you need to do is verify that the control board is working properly. Here is the link to the motor, it's from pellet head.com's eBay store, so it's good quality. Hope you get it figured out.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/261803150930
I've got an old photo tach here that I'm going to test. If it works I'll check the motor rpm on both fans.
 
I hope you can get it straightened out, it really sucks when things don't work out. I really figured that setup would work good, as I had such good luck with mine, but you will get it. With a little determination...
 
This is a step top model but you would expect the specs to be fairly similar. I was expecting it to work as well. It is listed as a direct replacement for the KS5020-1040 exhaust fan. The learning curve is getting steeper.
 
This is a step top model but you would expect the specs to be fairly similar. I was expecting it to work as well. It is listed as a direct replacement for the KS5020-1040 exhaust fan. The learning curve is getting steeper.

The only difference between the step top, Bayview, and flat top is the looks. The exhaust blowers are the same, and control panels are the same, as well as the snap discs and vacuum switch. That's what leads me to believe that something else maybe going on. Just out of curiosity, did you take the fire brick holder out (sheet metal secured with two screws behind the fake brick) and clean out the two Chambers behind there? I don't think that would make a big difference for your issue, but maybe.
 
Another thing to look at, are your door, window, and Ash pan gaskets in good shape? If those gaskets are shot, you won't be able to build vacuum enough for that switch. I will see if I can come up with a vacuum gauge and put one on mine, and let you know.
 
Another thing to look at, are your door, window, and Ash pan gaskets in good shape? If those gaskets are shot, you won't be able to build vacuum enough for that switch. I will see if I can come up with a vacuum gauge and put one on mine, and let you know.
I replaced the door gasket. The ash pan looks good. The book indicates the top & bottom of the glass has no gasket so there is airflow across the glass to help keep it clean. I couldn't find my draft gauge so I made a quick manometer with colored water.

OldBlower.jpg
 
I replaced the door gasket. The ash pan looks good. The book indicates the top & bottom of the glass has no gasket so there is airflow across the glass to help keep it clean. I couldn't find my draft gauge so I made a quick manometer with colored water.

View attachment 223939
Yeah, the top and bottom of the glass is just an airgap, supposed to help keep the glass clean. I do have a vacuum gauge, so I will try and check it for you tomorrow.
 
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He needs to know what his vacuum is not yours.