Edit: Since the posted video, I have changed my stove setup and flue piping. Still experiencing "puffs", however nowhere as extreme.
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Fire Chief FC1000 / Shelter SF1000 - blows biometric damper door off! Do not install a BD!
- Thread starter Mrpelletburner
- Start date
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Since posted, I believe HY-C has changed the draft blower, which I understand allows more air.
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BoiledOver
Minister of Fire
Are your stove pipe joints all screwed and taped? Is what you have experienced a known issue with this unit? The stove sitting in the background does not have a blower, is that correct? Operating those two wood fired appliances will take different approaches. Have you consulted with other owners of this model to determine an efficient procedure?
I can get the Eko boiler to have huffing and puffing with backfire explosions too, but I choose not to.
This quoted from Woodlanddirect.com: "The Fire Chief FC1000 Indoor Wood Burning Furnace is proudly EPA certified, assuring that you are getting the safest product."
I find it hard to believe the that EPA certification was awarded on a unit that has the issue that you have shown on your video. Maybe there will be a learning curve for you to achieve satisfactory results. Best of luck in satisfying your heating needs.
I can get the Eko boiler to have huffing and puffing with backfire explosions too, but I choose not to.
This quoted from Woodlanddirect.com: "The Fire Chief FC1000 Indoor Wood Burning Furnace is proudly EPA certified, assuring that you are getting the safest product."
I find it hard to believe the that EPA certification was awarded on a unit that has the issue that you have shown on your video. Maybe there will be a learning curve for you to achieve satisfactory results. Best of luck in satisfying your heating needs.
maple1
Minister of Fire
Did you read his other thread? Everything is recorded in there. Quite a tale. Aside from the intermittent explosions, it burns dirty - that's on video also. Likely a correlation there. Don't think I could confidently say all of them are problems, given the small sample size, but his sure is.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Read the saga here...this lame horse just needs to be taken out back and shot...
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fire-chief-or-shelter-epa-stoves-feedback.167418/
BoiledOver
Minister of Fire
Yeah that other thread is a doozie, sounds like a rough row to hoe. What is happening different at @Mrpelletburner home from what was done to receive EPA certification? The manufacturer does have a responsibility to state proper operating procedures. Those which were used during the testing for EPA would be helpful.
It has a higher cost but the Kuuma Vapor-Fire 100 is top of the line and would probably outlive any of the economy models. After all Mrpelletburner has been through, the wife might be on board to green light the Kuuma purchase.
It has a higher cost but the Kuuma Vapor-Fire 100 is top of the line and would probably outlive any of the economy models. After all Mrpelletburner has been through, the wife might be on board to green light the Kuuma purchase.
laynes69
Minister of Fire
That's been my point, there's no way the company tested the unit the way the OP was instructed to burn it. It sounded like initially the flap cover on the forced draft was loose and I'm sure that's how it tested clean. What the company found out is the unit cannot be operated cleanly (burning hot) without cracking so they riveted the flap closed and told consumers if you move this you void warranty. One would have to assume it's illegal to do so, since I'm sure that's not how it was tested. The sad part, a simple servo and a plate that would open and close would've produced the same results using natural draft. Per EPA a unit should burn cleanly when the air is shut down, however you close the flap on the blower and you smother the fire completely. What a poor design.
Just screwed together. Do you tape the black pipe? If so, what kid would you suggest?
According to HY-C no, not an on going issue.
The stove in the background is what I am replacing. It is an old Hunstman stove that had a homemade sheet metal enclosure with a blower. It is a nice stove that throws out a ton of heat, just uses a lot of wood.
I am 1 of 3 folks on this forum that owns one of these stoves. We have exchanges thoughts/suggestions. I believe @Medic21 has had a similar issue. @Medic21 you out there?
maple1
Minister of Fire
I don't think there is any need to tape or seal seams. That should only be needed if you are marginal on draft. And your Dwyer was showing proper draft. I did no sealing of seams on mine.
BoiledOver
Minister of Fire
After reading thoroughly through the other thread, I concur with the title of this thread. The owners of these units here at the hearth have been jumping through hoops since day one to accomplish the ease and efficiency as advertised HERE.
@Mrpelletburner @Medic21 @Turd Ferguson deserve a round of applause for their efforts.
@Mrpelletburner @Medic21 @Turd Ferguson deserve a round of applause for their efforts.
Turd Ferguson
New Member
I've been a little less voiceful in my frustrations, but I haven't seen anywhere near the backdraft/explosion problems that @Mrpelletburner has seen. Mine is more of a low draft issue, coupled with getting used to an EPA stove without any secondaries or primaries that are adjustable...Still though, a frustrating start to the ownership of this furnace.
Medic21
Minister of Fire
Sorry been busy in the shop. Yes I have experienced all these issues. I have come close to a good medium but, it is not as advertised. My plan right now is to make it work until I throw it in the shop and switch to a outdoor boiler. Unless they come up with some kind of recall or fix for the unit to burn while not receiving a heat call. I've got my dad, electrical engineer, working on making the inducer two speed or finding one that is to allow a small amount of air between heat calls.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
I'd ditch that blower completely! Go with natural draft and just have a motorized door...run it with a stepper motor so it can be incrementally opened/closed...like they do on the Kuumas. I would think it would be really easy for someone familiar with electronics and programming to do.
Also, if you are interested, look at the big Tundra thread (link in my sig line) to see how many of us have used inexpensive controls to automate the Tundras...I have less than $20 in my temp controller and thermocouple...and it works sweeeeeet BTW.
Could be used on most wood furnaces IMO...even this one.
lampmfg
Burning Hunk
It's a shame to see something like this. I'm wondering how many more of these issues will arise with companies making new models to gain EPA certification. It reminds me of another furnace that basically used the public for R & D a couple of years back.
I'm not saying that no one has issues with their Kuuma right away, but they don't if it's hooked up correctly, which we always try and help every single person achieve. The Kuuma Vapor-Fire is designed and time-tested to work while burning in the real world.
I'm not saying that no one has issues with their Kuuma right away, but they don't if it's hooked up correctly, which we always try and help every single person achieve. The Kuuma Vapor-Fire is designed and time-tested to work while burning in the real world.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
At least those were based on a proven firebox design, and actually worked...they just skimped on materials
PassionForFire&Water
Minister of Fire
Windhager has a barometric damper with spring assisted explosion relief; see pictures
These are used in Europe on almost all gasification wood boilers
These are used in Europe on almost all gasification wood boilers
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I also have the SF1000 furnace. Purchased it new from Menards and installed it this year. This is my first furnace but I have had stoves in the past. My opinion is this thing is dangerous and should not be sold. It burns very dirty (lots of creosote) and I have had a similar puff experience or two where the damper blew apart. It is sad because on the few occasions where we had it running good the heat was amazing. My SF1000 will be coming out of the basement in about a week and I plan to not use it until then. I have tried everything to get puff the magic furnace to work properly. The real question is what to do with the thing now?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
My personal opinion is, as I've stated before here in another thread, all y'all that bought these FC and SF1000 furnaces need to get together and get a good lawyer...
What are you replacing it with?
Mine is still sitting across the basement collecting dust. Was going to use it as a heat source for my garage, perhaps install it in an outdoor shed connected to the garage.
Bad LP
Minister of Fire
I was getting the same (not anywhere as extreme) with my Tarm when I first installed it. Was very uneasy about it not to mention the fly ash. As a temporary measure I installed a cap and put the damper on the shelf where it remains today.
Problem solved. No more mini explosions. My pipe is screwed in 3 places at every joint and red hi temp silicon over the seams. I think it helps a great deal with dust as I was seeing it near every joint. The only three joints not sealed are the stove to pipe, pipe to chimney adapter and the cap in place of the damper. I use this to take a peek in the pipe a few times.
Problem solved. No more mini explosions. My pipe is screwed in 3 places at every joint and red hi temp silicon over the seams. I think it helps a great deal with dust as I was seeing it near every joint. The only three joints not sealed are the stove to pipe, pipe to chimney adapter and the cap in place of the damper. I use this to take a peek in the pipe a few times.
Medic21
Minister of Fire
I'm one that purchased one of these too and am having issues. No puff back issues but not burning hot enough and causing too much creosote buildup!
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