Pleasant Hearth and Englander 30-NC /Timber Ridge 50-TNC30 Info

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ColdNorCal

Feeling the Heat
Mar 6, 2018
331
Newcastle, Ca.
Considering installing one of these economical burners into an existing fireplace with a convection deck. The fireplace is 48" wide and the stove would stick out from the opening of the fireplace 7" or more inches. More being with the NC30. The intent is to have the best of both worlds in terms of radiant and convection heat.

The NC-30 has tons of positive reviews. My concern is the length. The dimensions say 31" long. But I think that is without the blower which adds another 6 or 7 inches. Can some one confirm the length with the blower fan thats included with the stove? Their is a shorter box style fan available but for an additional cost.

The Pleasent Hearth 2200 would fit nicely. It is also made in USA and is currently on sale costing ~$200 less then the NC30. The box stores selling it, Lowes, HD, Amazon... give it good, favorable reviews. I would be more comfortable with reviews and owners from this site also.
 
I am very satisfied with my Pleasant Hearth 2200 sq ft stove. It has secondary burn tubes and puts out a good amount of heat in my leaky 1890's farmhouse. Glass stays pretty clean with the airwash and I only had a coaling issue that 1 frigid week when I was running the stove hard. I have learned to open up the air supply at the coaling stage which turns them to ash much quicker.

The stated burn times are a bit off I discovered, but have adequate coals in the morning to relight after 8 hours but find myself reloading in 4-6 hour timeframe during the day mainly burning ash, oak and maple. I have been able to get a few 12 hour burns when stacking the firebox tightly. Quality is great for a lower priced unit and I got mine on sale at TSC back in Oct. $1,000 CDN which is $789 US.

I am using 16-18 inch splits east-west although it will take up to 20 inch, but will only hold 14 inch if you place them north-south. Easily keeps my stove room in the 70's during the real cold with my attached kitchen being about 10 degrees less. But keep in mind this old farmhouse has single pane glass and 10' 6" ceilings. The included blower is noisy on high but ok at lower speeds, but you can still hear it. I just turn the tv up...lol

I actually do use the ash pan which is actually quite large but is only practical when stove has died out as you have to lift a firebrick that has a little eyehook in it to access the pan. I use the tip of my poker for this. I would recommend this stove to anyone without hesitation. However I was using an old 70's smoke dragon before so really cannot compare mine to other modern stoves. I seem to be using less wood and have gone through just over 2 cords this season when I normally would be into cord #4.

If you have any other specific questions, just ask. Take care, stay warm...kerry

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There's a big difference in stove size between these two choices. The 30-NC is a large stove. The PH 2200 is a medium sized stove. The question is how much heat do you need?

Can you describe the area where the stove would be installed? How many sq ft to be heated? How high are the ceilings?
 
Nc 30 $899 Home depot on line, if they have a blemeished or refurbished one on hand AMFM stove $799 to local terminal or to a dock at you business free- +$75 to your drive via lift gate.
 
There's a big difference in stove size between these two choices. The 30-NC is a large stove. The PH 2200 is a medium sized stove. The question is how much heat do you need?

Can you describe the area where the stove would be installed? How many sq ft to be heated? How high are the ceilings?

They are the same BTU. Yes, the NC30 has a LARGE firebox. I dont need a firebox that large but if its a lot better stove for about the same price then that is something to consider. The only concern is the NC30 length with the fan installed.
 
Nc 30 $899 Home depot on line, if they have a blemeished or refurbished one on hand AMFM stove $799 to local terminal or to a dock at you business free- +$75 to your drive via lift gate.

Thanks. The PH 2200 is less then $800 to my house right now. Considering the tax rate in California, makes for a very good deal ;)
 
I suspect you are looking at peak output, not normal running. There is a notable difference. One stove has a deep firebox permitting full N/S loading and the other is primarily an E/W loader with a firebox 2/3ds the size.

Can you answer the questions or have you already made up your mind?
 
PH lists it as a large stove but I have to agree its more med sized even tho it pumps out some serious heat. Usable space in the fire box measures 20W x 15D x 11H =3,300 cubic inches or 1.9 cubic ft.
 
I suspect you are looking at peak output, not normal running. There is a notable difference. One stove has a deep firebox permitting full N/S loading and the other is primarily an E/W loader with a firebox 2/3ds the size.

Can you answer the questions or have you already made up your mind?

Looking at both EPA and manufacturers claimed BTU output.

PH2200 - 75,000 BTU
EPA - 3.6 12000-37600

Englander - 75,000 BTU
EPA - 1.6 12000-28300


2,600 sq ft in Nor Cal. zip 95658. 8 ft ceilings, mostly very open floor plan, tile floors and adobe walls (not energy efficient in winter but work great in summer). Upgraded all windows, doors and blown insulation in attic. Only need to heat 1,400-1,600. Anything more would be nice.
 
Colder than normal Canadian winter up here and the PH did just fine keeping my 1890's farmhouse warm enough not to have to use the oil furnace at all. Extra tall 10 1/2' ceilings and single pane glass. Stove room was about 10 degrees warmer than other rooms but I am ok with that.
 
OK, thanks. I was getting thrown by the model 2200 number. This is the LWS-130291 correct? I was looking at the LWS-127201, their medium stove. The model 2200 is not an official model designation and confusing.

They are competing heaters. Both will do the job, both made in the US. Englander has been around longer, has good tech support and long term parts supply. The PH is newer on the scene so we see less of them, but it could be fine. You might call their support line and make sure that the depth provided is with blower.

Make sure you have sufficient height above the stove to connect the insulated liner and that the liner height is at least 15'.

 
Yes @begreen mdl# LWS130291 Back of heat shield to front ash lip is 26" and blower add another 3 3/4". Blower air intake is on back and side so add a little room for that clearance as well.
 
Also check on which blower is on the 30-NC. There are two, the AC-16 and the AC-30. The AC-16 is a couple inches deeper and a lower volume blower than the AC-30.
 
OK, thanks. I was getting thrown by the model 2200 number. This is the LWS-130291 correct? I was looking at the LWS-127201, their medium stove. The model 2200 is not an official model designation and confusing.

They are competing heaters. Both will do the job, both made in the US. Englander has been around longer, has good tech support and long term parts supply. The PH is newer on the scene so we see less of them, but it could be fine. You might call their support line and make sure that the depth provided is with blower.

Make sure you have sufficient height above the stove to connect the insulated liner and that the liner height is at least 15'.

Yes, lws-130291. Been looking at the HD, Amazon, Lowes... sites too much. It is listed as Pleasant Hearth 2200 sq ft wood stove.

Found a new 316ti 6" x 15' liner kit on cl for 1/2 price and plan on insulating it.


Yes @begreen mdl# LWS130291 Back of heat shield to front ash lip is 26" and blower add another 3 3/4". Blower air intake is on back and side so add a little room for that clearance as well.

Thanks again!
 
Does the PH have removable baffle, air tubes or blankets for cleaning the chimney flu from inside the stove?

The smaller PH in this vid looks like it does not have a removable baffle. And the manual does not list air tubes or baffle parts. However, it does say to make sure the baffle and blanket are pushed all the way back.

3:40 mark:

 
Does the PH have removable baffle, air tubes or blankets for cleaning the chimney flu from inside the stove?
Good question. This is my first EPA tube stove so I have not found this out yet. Been cleaning from top down by disconnecting telescoping pipe from flue collar. From looking at the pic it appears tubes are held on by cotter type pins and baffle sits on top of tubes with blanket above that. I know the baffle sits freely as I did have to push it to the back of stove during install as it had shifted during transport. By the looks of it the front 1 or 2 tubes would need to be removed to tilt the baffle for it to slide down and out the door.
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Does the PH have removable baffle, air tubes or blankets for cleaning the chimney flu from inside the stove?

The smaller PH in this vid looks like it does not have a removable baffle. And the manual does not list air tubes or baffle parts. However, it does say to make sure the baffle and blanket are pushed all the way back.

Hi. How has this install gone? Curious to see pictures. Great looking stove. I’m setting up a jotul 602 in my workshed. Always curious what people are using. Good luck!
 
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Hi. How has this install gone? Curious to see pictures. Great looking stove. I’m setting up a jotul 602 in my workshed. Always curious what people are using. Good luck!

In the planning stages. Gathering measurements and info from this thread and a couple pm's.

At this stage it looks like installing an economical, not a cast iron rear vented, freestanding stove is far from ideal. I can squeeeze the Pleasant Hearth "inside" the fireplace but the stove would not extend past the edge of the fireplace opening. It may be possible to use a couple 90 degree elbows, or maybe two 45's and a 90, and move the stove forward. Not 100% sure and it would require some hearth deconstruction and impact the stoves draft.

The 30-NC is a bit more challenging to install and perhaps not even possible, but would extend about 6 inches past the fireplace opening.

I "think" its best to have the stove extend several inches past the fireplace opening to get some radiant heat from the sides of it. Otherwise, its better to do an insert? Thoughts, anyone?

Not giving up on the idea yet though. Just need to find a low profile, economical, 65~75,000 btu, 2.0+ cu ft fire box... freestanding stove ;)
 
Have you considered the Buck 261? or the Regency H2100 Hearth Heater? If you want an easier install and economical then an insert may make the most sense. Look at the Englander 13-NCi and the Century 2500-i or 2900-i.
 
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In the planning stages. Gathering measurements and info from this thread and a couple pm's.

At this stage it looks like installing an economical, not a cast iron rear vented, freestanding stove is far from ideal. I can squeeeze the Pleasant Hearth "inside" the fireplace but the stove would not extend past the edge of the fireplace opening. It may be possible to use a couple 90 degree elbows, or maybe two 45's and a 90, and move the stove forward. Not 100% sure and it would require some hearth deconstruction and impact the stoves draft.

The 30-NC is a bit more challenging to install and perhaps not even possible, but would extend about 6 inches past the fireplace opening.

I "think" its best to have the stove extend several inches past the fireplace opening to get some radiant heat from the sides of it. Otherwise, its better to do an insert? Thoughts, anyone?

Not giving up on the idea yet though. Just need to find a low profile, economical, 65~75,000 btu, 2.0+ cu ft fire box... freestanding stove ;)

Funny thing, turns out the btu rating that you are using for selection criteria is totally bogus. It is not a real specification and the manufacturer can say anything they want!
 
Have you considered the Buck 261? or the Regency H2100 Hearth Heater? If you want an easier install and economical then an insert may make the most sense. Look at the Englander 13-NCi and the Century 2500-i or 2900-i.

The Buck is very cool and beyond my idea of economical. ;) I have considered the others. The cw2900 is my first insert choice.
 
Funny thing, turns out the btu rating that you are using for selection criteria is totally bogus. It is not a real specification and the manufacturer can say anything they want!

Nothing bogus, here "!!!" Begreen agrees also ;) Did you read and understand post #9, and this thread completely?

Ok, tell us, why are those two stoves bogus from the BTU perspective and the requirements? And the requirements are in this thread ;)
 
Nothing bogus, here "!!!" Begreen agrees also ;) Did you read and understand post #9, and this thread completely?

Ok, tell us, why are those two stoves bogus from the BTU perspective and the requirements? And the requirements are in this thread ;)
He is referring to another thread where @BKVP said there is no standard for determining the BTU output so numbers are basically bogus.
 
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Looking at both EPA and manufacturers claimed BTU output.

PH2200 - 75,000 BTU
EPA - 3.6 12000-37600

Englander - 75,000 BTU
EPA - 1.6 12000-28300


2,600 sq ft in Nor Cal. zip 95658. 8 ft ceilings, mostly very open floor plan, tile floors and adobe walls (not energy efficient in winter but work great in summer). Upgraded all windows, doors and blown insulation in attic. Only need to heat 1,400-1,600. Anything more would be nice.

Yes, I saw this post and that is why I warned you to ignore these numbers. They are bogus. Instead, you just have to consider firebox size or something else.
 
Yes, I saw this post and that is why I warned you to ignore these numbers. They are bogus. Instead, you just have to consider firebox size or something else.

Understood. It is confusing and a little over whelming trying to gather data from various sources then make a guess-timation. I am comfortable with the two stove choices and the SBI cw29000/1800i as the insert choice. I really would like to make a freeestanding stove work though.
 
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