No it wouldnt fill the house with smoke unless the negative pressure overpowers the draft of the chimney. If it doesnt it will just cause performance issues like slow startup and backpuffing.
Fire Chief or Shelter EPA stoves feedback
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
You need to look at the bright side. You now have something to hold a really big door open with!! 
So this was just pointed out to me... The SS liner that I had purchased had a shorter t-snout (it is being replaced with the correct length) and where the seams are welded together you see where air is being pulled in. The thought is this fresh air is causing the back puffing.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Well, personally I would fix that, just because...but I highly doubt it is going to affect the problem one bit.
That would not cause backpuffing like you have. Especially when you have a barometric damper in the pipe letting in air.
maple1
Minister of Fire
No way. As I think I already said on similar theory a page or two back.
So that small bit of air is one of the root causes of the "puffs" in the stack?
If so, that doesn't explain @Medic21 having "puffs"
I seriously doubt it has any effect at all. And i also doubt the puffs are in the stack. It is probably in the stove it just shows up in the stack because it is the path of least resistance. The chances of you having enough temp in the stack to allow for ignition of those gasses are very slim.
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
from that link:
I guess I'm doing it wrong then by burning some 7 year old wood I had this winter. It will be 8 years old next winter. Funny, it seems to do just fine.
Just would like to confirm the following...
The Kuuma, Caddy, Drolet and other stoves mentioned in this thread have some sort of "auto" draft control?
Edit: “auto” primary air control
The Kuuma, Caddy, Drolet and other stoves mentioned in this thread have some sort of "auto" draft control?
Edit: “auto” primary air control
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JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
They all have an auto DRAFT control....it's called a barometric damper.
Kuuma is the only one which has a fully automatic controlled primary air damper based on internal firebox temps.
Some who have Tundra's have made their own damper controls using flue temps.
Kuuma is the only one which has a fully automatic controlled primary air damper based on internal firebox temps.
Some who have Tundra's have made their own damper controls using flue temps.
3fordasho
Minister of Fire
Caddy and Drolet Tundra/Tundra II, Heatpack, HeatPro all have a motorized flapper over the primary air inlet. It is either wide open, or closed down to a minimum of a 3/4" hole opening. There is no in between control of the flapper like the Kuuma has. The Secondary air inlets are always open.
The factory control of the primary flapper is open when the thermostat is calling for heat, or a manual air inlet switch is in the "on" position. The factory hi-limit will close the primary flapper when tripped.
Some of us have fine tuned that open /close flapper based on flue temps, in my case I close it if it hits a selectable high flue temp, and open it if it hits a settable low temp. More of us have added a spring loaded "hot tub" timer to hold the damper open for cold starts or reloads to char a new load of wood and get the firebox up to temp. These are the reasons I can throw a load of wood in and walk away with no concerns. No leaving doors open, etc.
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maple1
Minister of Fire
No. What I meant was, no way does that cause your puffing. As I also said re. a similar 'engineer' theory a page or two back.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
That's the key right there...and the reason these FC's will never work properly as they are designed now...IMO of course
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
I skimmed this real quick...I will read the rest later...I assume you linked that due to the cool chimney part...if that was your issue you wouldn't have draft...and you do per the Dwyer...now, that said I understand @bholler s point from before about the meter could be showing "house draft" and not chimney draft...but I really doubt that is your issue...I think the chimney is fine and it is a stove issue.
Did you ever have this problem with your old stove...no? If not then I'd say that's very strong proof it is an issue with the FC1000
Zero issue with my old Huntsman stove.
Perhaps a combo of things?
My newbie opinion.. The stove is filling with smoke faster then it can be cleared/burned due to fixed draft blower air intake opening.
Should of asked more questions before buying the stove.
Perhaps a combo of things?
My newbie opinion.. The stove is filling with smoke faster then it can be cleared/burned due to fixed draft blower air intake opening.
Should of asked more questions before buying the stove.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Has there been any indication from HY-C that they will fix/replace/take back this unit?
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
So what are your plans going forward? I would have a hard time chalking it up to a bad decision and eating it.
Medic21
Minister of Fire
This is where it is time to get a professional involved. Verify your installation and then you would have ammunition to push it. All manufacturers will, and probably should, blame the install first. There is a possibility you have a defective unit also.
