Vaillant components:. Need help identifying

[robertx1]

Hi everyone...of course I'm new. I have a vaillant model Ga100-18 spvd / 423-504. I'm trying to identify the parts so I can figure out what they do. Some failed. I have an outdoor wood boiler in which I just need the pump indoors to work. Ultimate goal is to hook it up so if the wood runs out it switches to gas. Then I'll worry about solar after that

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[Bob Rohr]

Most of the controls you show are made by Honeywell not Vaillant. relief valves are off the shelf pars as is the circulator pump.
Other than the block, burners and sheet metal jacket, you should be able to find parts easily.

 

[leon]

Was the samsonite luggage testing Gorilla drunk when he wire that mess up?

You need to get that junk off the boiler steam jacket quick!!


SO
1. you have three Valiant zone valves

2. you have one Grundfos circulator in the lower left corner of the boiler

3. you have what looks like a 30 plate heat exchanger

4. you have a bladder type expansion tank

5. you have a motorized damper in the flue stack to hold in the heat from the steam chest of the boiler

6. If that is the blow off valve on the left middle side of the picture that is an absolute NO NO it has to be in top of the steam chest or a side tapping at the top of the steam chest.



You can forget about your insurance company paying a damage claim if you have a fire that is caused by the gas boiler.


You need an electrician for at least two days and a good plumber for 2 days to rip everything out and start all over again to fix that snake cluster****.


The sooner you get an electrician the better to fix that mess the better as you could have a fire and burn up the control wiring

Both your county plumbing and county electrical inspector would fail your heating set up and attach a failed inspection tag for your heating appliance and you would not, (ABSOLUTELY WILL NOT) have heat in the home until the system is repaired by a licensed plumber and licensed electrician.

 

[robertx1]

Was the samsonite luggage testing Gorilla drunk when he wire that mess up?

You need to get that junk off the boiler steam jacket quick!!

SO
1. you have three Valiant zone valves

2. you have one Grundfos circulator in the lower left corner of the boiler

3. you have what looks like a 30 plate heat exchanger

4. you have a bladder type expansion tank

5. you have a motorized damper in the flue stack to hold in the heat from the steam chest of the boiler

6. If that is the blow off valve on the left middle side of the picture that is an absolute NO NO it has to be in top of the steam chest or a side tapping at the top of the steam chest.

You can forget about your insurance company paying a damage claim if you have a fire that is caused by the gas boiler.

You need an electrician for at least two days and a good plumber for 2 days to rip everything out and start all over again to fix that snake cluster****.

The sooner you get an electrician the better to fix that mess the better as you could have a fire and burn up the control wiring

Both your county plumbing and county electrical inspector would fail your heating set up and attach a failed inspection tag for your heating appliance and you would not, (ABSOLUTELY WILL NOT) have heat in the home until the system is repaired by a licensed plumber and licensed electrician.

Haha, damn. Thanks for the boost in confidence. I temped in the pump because the pump wasn't pumping (where it was hooked up through all the birds nest of wiring in the pic). I haven't lit this boiler in 2 years...but I want to. It is heated with wood from an outdoor wood boiler...that's what the heat exchanger is for. So all the crap on there isn't getting too hot in the meantime.

I need help as to what these two things are in the pic....I'm pretty sure that is what is failing. I'd like to redo the whole thing...and actually know what each component is for

 

[tom in maine]

Unfortunately, Leon is right on the mark here. This system was installed by someone who knew little about heating and more importantly even less about safety.
The good news is the weather is getting warmer and you need to pull this apart ASAP and clean it all up.
Electrical work needs to be supported and protected and covered.
Plastic tubing should not be leaning on the flue pipe. It is going to melt and leave you without heat at the minimum.
The wiring can be stepped on (did I just say that??!) and possibly shock someone. Or kill a child.

And, if the insurance company ever comes to inspect, you will be losing your homeowners insurance.

It is a good project for late spring. I hope you have a plumber friend who owes you a favor. (And not the person who did this install.)

 

[maple1]

I don't know what those 2 things in the last 2 pics are. Mostly because they are too dark, maybe. Can't tell.

Ya, that is ugly.

 

[robertx1]

Ok people. I know it's a mess...most of it is from me CURRENTLY tearing it apart. I'd very much like to replace the components with something modern. I'm just at a loss as to what those intermediate pieces are. The one obviously controls the pump and probably calls the ignition and gas flow. I just need to know what it is. So what are the basics on a boiler? What are some nice things to replace it with? Does anyone know where to get a manual? Please, look past the aesthetics for meow.

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[robertx1]

This seems to be the problem. There is a transformer and a relay. Is there an equivalent out there? This is the part no.

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[leon]

This seems to be the problem. There is a transformer and a relay. Is there an equivalent out there? This is the part no.View attachment 225438

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Is your forest eater a closed pressurized system or open system???

There is a honeywell equivalent for that unit but you need to do so much surgery to repair that mess AKA Snake Cluster**** it is best to have a licensed plumber and licensed electrician do the work as your insurance company may also kiss you goodby without proof of using a licensed plumber or electrician meaning you SHOULD NOT do the repairs yourself EVER.

You just have to commit to the licensed electrician and licensed plumber you hire to removing everything and I mean everything including piping leading to the zones from the air scoop to the motorized stack damper on the gas boiler and correcting the mistake made with the header pipe for the zone valves and removing all that PEX MESS as well.

This grunfoss circulator needs to be plumbed off the steam chest and pumping away from the boiler to the air scoop and bladder tank to create the proper pressure balance and reduce air bubbles to a minimum.

I did not see a back flow preventer or pressure regulator there either and you need one of each of those too.

You also need to have a vacuum gauge on the inlet side of the circulator, a pressure gauge on the outlet side of the circulator and a temperature and pressure gauge installed in the top of the steam chest and a pressure and temperature gauge on the return line to the boiler sump.

If you invest in the isolation valves with gauge tappings that will eliminate a lot of Tee's and reducing bushings on the pressure side of the boiler before the air scoop.


I just hope for your sake this does not turn into a "hold my beer and watch this" episode of the Red Green Show.

I am no trying to spend your money you have to have everything up to the current NEC and NPC codes.


You should invest in a copy of Pumping Away and a copy of Classic Hydronics which were written by Dan Holohan and you can purchase them directly from the author at www.dansbooks.com

 

[leon]

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Is your forest eater a closed pressurized system or open system???

Where are covers for the zone valves and other controls????

Whoever did this only made it worse with the zone valves IMO.


There is a honeywell equivalent for that unit but you need to do so much surgery to repair that mess AKA Snake Cluster**** it is best to have a licensed plumber and licensed electrician do the work as your insurance company may also kiss you goodby without proof of using a licensed plumber or electrician meaning you SHOULD NOT do the repairs yourself EVER.

You just have to commit to the licensed electrician and licensed plumber you hire to removing everything and I mean everything including piping leading to the zones from the air scoop to the motorized stack damper on the gas boiler and removing all that PEX MESS as well.

I did not see a back flow preventer or pressure regulator there either and you need one of each of those too.


I just hope for your sake this does not turn into a "hold my beer and watch this" episode of the Red Green Show for you.

I am no trying to spend your money you have to have everything up to the current NEC and NPC codes.