Fire Chief or Shelter EPA stoves feedback

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They are willing to spend their money to install a cold air return
Didn't know about that lil detail...I guess that's something...don't think it will help, but its more than just excuses, or playing the blame game.
they want photos of a split of wood with the moisture measured. I did this same exercise back on March 16th and sent the photos. I was then told they don’t believe the photos and to do the test again.
This is the one issue I'm not fully satisfied has been addressed is the wet wood possibility. Those moisture meters are not fool proof. And if this was any other stove with a proven track record, I'd say it is a wet wood problem...but in this case I still say poor design, and then the wood could be a contributing factor...maybe.
 
@Medic21 , I believe you if you are getting yours to work better. However...

@Mrpelletburner , you have done an inordinate amount of work to try to get it to work safely and overcome a dangerous situation. You should be able to work out a refund for either one of those failing, not to mention both. If this thing can't be solved with a simple fix, then it's going to be a problem for countless others. Continue being polite, while ratcheting up and holding firm to the bottom line of a refund. Ask them to self-impose a deadline, and don't take no for that answer. Make them commit to a way they can make things right if they don't meet their deadlines. Get some clout behind you...the retailer, the fire marshal, your insurance company, or--I hate to even say this--one of them opportunistic lawyer sharks that I typically wish didn't exist.

Also, your success in dealing with these guys fairly and squarely, and firmly, will help you in more situations in life bound to come.

You're not going to be able to get much more technical help from this forum, due to both lack of new ideas and lack of remaining burning season.

You can do it! We're all cheering for you!
 
I have to agree. While not perfect I have began to dial this thing in and have tried to offer advice. I am starting to be happy with it, getting 10-12 hour burn times in 30 degree weather. I attribute the issues I have had as I have never had a EPA stove and it burns different.

After I saw your last post @Mrpelletburner where you went and threw up the communication between yourself and company reps trying to help you out I have to say something. That would be like you calling 911 for a fire and when I show up you know better than me in how to extinguish said fire.

I have told you to quit being a slave to a thermometer. The only one you need to see is the flue temp and that is only there as a safety. You were burning way too cool, I did too at first and had issues. I see you have started to go hotter with better results. My time in the Military taught me the definition of insanity as doing the same thing the same way expecting different results. You need to change something up. Hotter burns, different wood. Your at a huge disadvantage from me as I cut mine and know what I got. A cold air return may be the difference. Yes, I know you keep the door open to the basement but, just as with firefighting, introducing a negative pressure from a fan in a room will at the bare minimum create a draw for a little bit in the direct area. The fan is 3 feet away from you air intake.

Your kinda lucky that I'm not your rep with the last post. After agreeing to spend a few hundred dollars to a grand, you get defiant online. I would have washed my hands and told you to take it up with where you bought it.

The problems I still have are a smoke smell when the blower kicks in with the inducer off. And a lower draft with different winds. Hoping to fix those this summer with a taller stack and a cold air return. If it doesn't fix those issues the thing will go in the shop and I'll start over in the house. It is what it is. If someone came to me today I would not recommend this product as a primary heat source. I will not bash someone trying to help me.


I'm glad you solved the wood burning equivalent of the Rubik's cube. :) However one should not have to do such a thing to burn wood safely...period.
 
I'm glad you solved the wood burning equivalent of the Rubik's cube. :) However one should not have to do such a thing to burn wood safely...period.

Honestly, all the problems I had were due to not burning this stove hot enough. I'm purchasing another furnace. Which one will end up in the shop is TBD. I regret not putting the Hitzer in my basement for the ability to burn coal and I may swap it based on that.

Once I get done burning and clean it out for the last time I'll pull all my notes and give a very long review if this in other places. There is still no online reviews for these that I have found.
 
For the record, without some kind of update to this thing in supplying secondary air via its own channel, I will not recommend it to anyone.

I know HY-C personnel are viewing this thread and I will state to them they have half a good furnace. They need to engineer an update that adds secondary air to keep and hold a secondary burn that does not use a one air inlet. When the draft comes in the front three inches how do they think secondary air will bypass the from holes and travel to an area where it has to reverse course to go up the flue. Simple common sense should say that.

Either that or everything we know about flowpaths in fighting fire is bullshit. Air follows the path of least resistance.
 
Not to mention when you are burning "hot enough", the outer portion around the door will glow. That enough would make it a no for me! Every system has variables, but that furnace makes things much harder and less desirable.
 
Not to mention when you are burning "hot enough", the outer portion around the door will glow. That enough would make it a no for me! Every system has variables, but that furnace makes things much harder and less desirable.

Actually, if you use the correct length of wood and push it all the way back it does not do that very often at all.
 
I'm purchasing another furnace
Any idea what you will get?
Actually, if you use the correct length of wood and push it all the way back it does not do that very often at all.
If that happened once, and it was not my own fault, and/or there was a problem with the furnace (like a leaky door gasket) then that would be one too many times for me.
 
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Does "correct length" refer to the manufacturers suggested length or what you feel is the safest for you to use?

A little of both. Manufacture says 20". I have anything from 18"-24". 22 and shorter I have zero problems unless I load all ash, that stuff burns hot.
 
Any idea what you will get?

Hitzer furnace made locally. Old school coal/wood furnace. A lot of the Amish have the same model in a stove here so it is a very proven unit.

IMG_1359.PNG
 
A little of both. Manufacture says 20". I have anything from 18"-24". 22 and shorter I have zero problems unless I load all ash, that stuff burns hot.

oh, come on, with this furnace you probably need to cut it within a 16th of an inch of it's "sweet spot" in order for it to "behave", don'tcha? :p ;lol
 
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Hitzer furnace made locally. Old school coal/wood furnace. A lot of the Amish have the same model in a stove here so it is a very proven unit.

View attachment 225917
Oh, I guess I misread your earlier post about the Hitzer...I thought you already had one in the garage and were thinking of switching the places of the two furnaces.
Didn't realize those were made in Ind. either, though they came from PA...
 
Hitzer furnace made locally. Old school coal/wood furnace. A lot of the Amish have the same model in a stove here so it is a very proven unit.

View attachment 225917

Not sure how they can legally sell it.....unless they are exempt because they are Amish.
 
Not sure how they can legally sell it.....unless they are exempt because they are Amish.
Probably only marketed as a coal furnace now...I've seen some other old school furnaces doing that too
 
Oh, I guess I misread your earlier post about the Hitzer...I thought you already had one in the garage and were thinking of switching the places of the two furnaces.
Didn't realize those were made in Ind. either, though they came from PA...

Berne, IN, local family business. They are sold as coal only. I've priced the anthracite coal and it actually decently priced. I was going to purchase one last year till I found this. About the same price and I regret that now.
 
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If you ask the Amish they think they are exempt from everything, hiding behind a damn religion...

I hear ya.....my beef with religion is for a different forum though... ;lol
 
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If you ask the Amish they think they are exempt from everything, hiding behind a damn religion...
Yup, not appropriate here
 
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