Stainless steel chimney crown cover

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I just looked at the arbortech and its only got a 2" diameter wheel.

Seems like a 4 1/2" angle grinder would be better for cutting out brick but I am probably missing something.
 
I just looked at the arbortech and its only got a 2" diameter wheel.

Seems like a 4 1/2" angle grinder would be better for cutting out brick but I am probably missing something.
Not an arbortech grinder an arbortech allsaw.
 
Now that's a nice tool!

"the AS170 is the only small, handheld saw able to cut to depths of 120mm/4-3/4" (Plunge blade) in masonry"

A little out of my price range at $999!
 
Now that's a nice tool!

"the AS170 is the only small, handheld saw able to cut to depths of 120mm/4-3/4" (Plunge blade) in masonry"

A little out of my price range at $999!
Yeah and some of the blades are over 100 a set.
 
bholler I don't plan to go this way but is it ever an option to pour a 4" concrete slab over an existing concrete crown assuming the old crown is structurally sound? The old crown does not overhang, its poured inside the brick.

Seems it would be an awul lot of top heavy weight on the chimney structure.
 
bholler I don't plan to go this way but is it ever an option to pour a 4" concrete slab over an existing concrete crown assuming the old crown is structurally sound? The old crown does not overhang, its poured inside the brick.

Seems it would be an awul lot of top heavy weight on the chimney structure.
Yeah absolutely it can be done
 
I've got most of the loose brick down in the front and sides. Tomorrow I tear down the back.

Fortunately the brick supporting angle iron for the crown looks pretty solid.


front1.JPG right side1.JPG
 
For an expert mason it might not be a big deal to go up 3 feet. But for me it would be MAJOR. There is no easy way to scaffold the backside of the chimney - its where the roof slopes steeply away from the chimney.

Besides, why go thru all that effort when my zero cost solution has worked for 4 solid years. A simple single wall extension that I will get scolded for since its "not code" but has never yielded soot/creosote. I check it often regardless of its clean creosote history.
 
Im not on here to scold anyone. There are the way things are supposed to be and the way they are. Its your house your money your chimney and ultimately your decision.(dont take that the wrong way i am not being a smart ass and am in no way saying something crazy will happen if you dont follow every rule code standard and opinion) honestly the only reason i mentioned raising the chimney height was cause if the pipe didnt come out to far i was going to recommend getting a outside mount cap with built in chase pan and a 6" overhang. The pipe issue has already been brought up and i dont see a need at this point to reidderate. Just here to lend a hand if at all possible and learn
 
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Raising the chimney is definitely the right way to go and was a good suggestion. Another hearth member who I highly respect and is well regarded in the field suggested the same thing.

I would like to understand more about the outside mount cap with built in chase pan and 6" overhang. I don't quite understand what this means. I was going to install a stainless steel chase cover with a 1/2" drip edge. Any links with a picture you could provide would be appreciated.
 
For an expert mason it might not be a big deal to go up 3 feet. But for me it would be MAJOR. There is no easy way to scaffold the backside of the chimney - its where the roof slopes steeply away from the chimney.

Besides, why go thru all that effort when my zero cost solution has worked for 4 solid years. A simple single wall extension that I will get scolded for since its "not code" but has never yielded soot/creosote. I check it often regardless of its clean creosote history.
Yes extending the chimney up would best. A class a extension would be next best. But i have no room to talk. My rigid liner has stuck up 18" since i did it last fall. I let it that way because i need to pour a crown and i will cut it to the correct height once that is done.
 
I was looking for a in my newer phone but none of them show the chase pan part but i have installed quite a few of these and they are very effective
 

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I was looking for a in my newer phone but none of them show the chase pan part but i have installed quite a few of these and they are very effective
Effective yes but the side is way to high visually. Anything over 4" looks out of proportion unless the chimney is huge.
 
If your refering to the skirt... i always show pictures of deep and shallow skirts and let the customer decide. All i personally care about is that theres enough screen height for the chimney to vent properly theres a overhang and its going to keep water off. Unless asked my opinion doesnt matter on asthetics as long as the person paying is happy and it accomplishes what was intended im happy.
 
If your refering to the skirt... i always show pictures of deep and shallow skirts and let the customer decide. All i personally care about is that theres enough screen height for the chimney to vent properly theres a overhang and its going to keep water off. Unless asked my opinion doesnt matter on asthetics as long as the person paying is happy and it accomplishes what was intended im happy.
I have a design degree and i refuse to do any work that looks that wrong visually. I need to be happy with my work as well
 
Wow... i appologize if i offended you. Your a ferocious advicate for the 4" and under skirt crowd. I have a degree in specialized automotive technology with applied service management and it bothers me that in order to fix a common oil leak on a northstar v8 you have to pull the front frame take the engine off the trans pull the engine remove the exhaust manifold oil pan and crankcase to apply 4 dollars worth of silicone. But ive done quite a few of them and customers pay for it and it resolves an issue. I like to do work thats ashthetically pleasing to myself as well but in the end its not my money and asthetics will always be subjective whether your in the majority or minority on how something looks.
 
Wow... i appologize if i offended you. Your a ferocious advicate for the 4" and under skirt crowd. I have a degree in specialized automotive technology with applied service management and it bothers me that in order to fix a common oil leak on a northstar v8 you have to pull the front frame take the engine off the trans pull the engine remove the exhaust manifold oil pan and crankcase to apply 4 dollars worth of silicone. But ive done quite a few of them and customers pay for it and it resolves an issue. I like to do work thats ashthetically pleasing to myself as well but in the end its not my money and asthetics will always be subjective whether your in the majority or minority on how something looks.
You didnt offend me at all. You didnt put an ugly cap on my house. And yes aestetics are subjective but there are globally accepted rules of proportion taught to every first year design student. They have been around since the greeks. And there are serious proportion issues with both of those caps. I also see that on the 4" one the skirt doesnt overhang the course of brick below it. Yes those caps will work and i am sure i could sell them. But i wouldnt sell something that looks that bad
 
Your correct it doesnt and it didnt need to as the overhang was more than enough to keep water away. Youll also see a gas cap inside of it. This was a rather large job as i tuckpointed entire chimney from the garage roofline up and as i was finishing a nasty storm blew in and to keep the mortar from the roofline up from running since it was still wet i quickly put the cap on and screwed it in. The picture was actually taken to show the customer that none of the wet mortar ran down the chimney during the storm. For the rest of the repairs the customer was switching from gas to wood so the cap inside the cap came off.
 
Im not a big fan of floating crowns but i still do them. As well as crown splashes
 

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Your correct it doesnt and it didnt need to as the overhang was more than enough to keep water away. Youll also see a gas cap inside of it. This was a rather large job as i tuckpointed entire chimney from the garage roofline up and as i was finishing a nasty storm blew in and to keep the mortar from the roofline up from running since it was still wet i quickly put the cap on and screwed it in. The picture was actually taken to show the customer that none of the wet mortar ran down the chimney during the storm. For the rest of the repairs the customer was switching from gas to wood so the cap inside the cap came off.
I am sorry but rain can absolutly get to that lip.