Roof leak

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danthedewman1

Member
Jan 1, 2018
31
Missouri
Hi..I have a free standing wood stove on a outside wall. Right now I have a leak just past where the pipe goes thru the ceiling..any leak runs down the sheetrock..What I was thinking is why not go straight out the back of the stove, thru the wall and go up thru the eave or overhang..That way if it ever leaks again its on the outside of the house..I know this doesn't address the existing leak, but thinking while im messing with the roof and leak why not move the pipe to run outside the wall and up..Any pros or cons on this..And how about supporting the pipe going up thru wall and thru the eave and up from there..The straight run out the back of the stove before turning to go up would be about 24 inches..The exit on the stove is about 16 inches from the wall. The wall is 2x6..
 
A chimney system like you are describing is very costly, and doesn’t perform very well typically. The horizontal run and all the elbows reduce the draw.

Can you post a picture of your current chimney system? Most importantly the roof where the leak is?
 
+1 Straight up is better.
Do you know what kind of chimney pipe is installed? Can you post some shots of the roof side showing the storm collar and pipe seam if there is one?
 
A chimney system like you are describing is very costly, and doesn’t perform very well typically. The horizontal run and all the elbows reduce the draw.

Can you post a picture of your current chimney system? Most importantly the roof where the leak is?
The T or elbow is still only one being used...just adding 2 feet horizontal going out the back of the stove...In other words stove exits out back not from the top...
 
I found the leak today..a collar piece where the piece going thru roof meets pipe going up ...Could see light around it from underneath..Loos like they just used screws and roof tar around the connection...so i think thats an easy fix..But the installer scabbed onto a rafter adding a 2x2 because he didnt have a 2x6...installed the thru the ceiling bracket piece up there and didnt even screw the 2x2 to the rafter...LOL...This is Buck's Wood Stove in Springfield, MO...about 5 years ago was installed..They never put enough pipe to get good draw either..the 10 foot rule...Dont go to them for anything...I spent around $5,000 for stove, hearth and install plus extras..Had to tear part of the ceiling down to find all this mess...Thanks Buck Wood Stoves...
 
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Post some pictures. There may be other issues. Roofing tar is not appropriate for sealing the storm collar.
 
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The T or elbow is still only one being used...just adding 2 feet horizontal going out the back of the stove...In other words stove exits out back not from the top...
The Tee and the horizontal run is the problem. This setup doesn’t work well. Not to mention you can never install a different stove without reworking the chimney system.
The tar needs removed and sealed properly with silicone. I’d just replace the storm collar rather than trying to clean it off.
 
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What we're calling the storm collar is just the doughnut looking thing around the pipe just above the cone of the roof flashing. That storm collar should have silicone all around. The cone flashing that attaches to the roof should have no sealant of any kind anywhere. You can usually see light from below from between the bottom of the storm collar and the top of the cone. Don't try and fill that with goop.
 
The T or elbow is still only one being used...just adding 2 feet horizontal going out the back of the stove...In other words stove exits out back not from the top...
If this is an example of what you are describing yes you can absolutley do that assuming ur following manufactures instructions and code. I have not yet had a drafting/performance issue on one of these systems and have installed many. I would think draft would be affected similar to that of a rear vent hearth mount. All things being equal i agree with everyone that the straighter the run the better and usually its cheaper. Pictures would be helpful
 

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In my class A instructions it says to never offset an exterior chimney, yet I see it constantly.
 
In my class A instructions it says to never offset an exterior chimney, yet I see it constantly.
Some brands are fine with it. I try to avoid it because it looks like crap but sometimes customers dont want you to cut the edge pf the roof.
 
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