Dripping faucet, tight plumbing

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TresK3

Member
Jul 12, 2007
149
Cincinnati, Ohio
The bathtub faucet has been dripping for some time now. It's an old (1960's) two handle model. I've tried replacing the washers and putting in new valve seats. Still drips and getting worse. It appears to be the hot side.

My plan was to open up the wall and pull out the faucet and replace the faucet body. I really don't want to do any tile work on the tub side, if I can avoid it (planning on a full remodel in the next year or two). The backside is in a closet, and on close inspection my wife found an access panel hidden behind several layers of paint. Problem is that there's a stud running just off center of the faucet (see photo). Since this is the back, hot is on the right.

Any ideas, thoughts, or suggestions on getting this bugger out? Or on solving the leak problem without taking it out?

Thanks!
 

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Cut the stud, change the faucet and sister a new stud in with screws.
 
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Have you taken a faucet grinder and reground the seat inside the facet? I think i have the same facet and had the same issue turned out it had a slit chip on the seat that needed to be ground out. Been great for a year now
 
Have you taken a faucet grinder and reground the seat inside the facet? I think i have the same facet and had the same issue turned out it had a slit chip on the seat that needed to be ground out. Been great for a year now
Hmmm... let me look into a faucet grinder. Anything I can do to avoid cutting it out would be good.

As for sistering in a stud, there isn't room on either side for the sister to fit without notching 3/4 of it out - the cold water is on one side and the control/shower part is on the other. I might be able to insert a piece like a dutchman, and then use plywood on either side to hold it in place.
 
Hmmm... let me look into a faucet grinder. Anything I can do to avoid cutting it out would be good.

As for sistering in a stud, there isn't room on either side for the sister to fit without notching 3/4 of it out - the cold water is on one side and the control/shower part is on the other. I might be able to insert a piece like a dutchman, and then use plywood on either side to hold it in place.

Before you take drastic action, find a good, experienced plumber and have him take a look. It may be a quick fix to an experienced plumber.
 
Hmmm... let me look into a faucet grinder. Anything I can do to avoid cutting it out would be good.

As for sistering in a stud, there isn't room on either side for the sister to fit without notching 3/4 of it out - the cold water is on one side and the control/shower part is on the other. I might be able to insert a piece like a dutchman, and then use plywood on either side to hold it in place.

Oh... wait... The seats are replaceable, and I have replaced them, so a grinder won't do anything to help.
 
U replaced the valve seat/cartrage or the seat in the body of the tap.

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Do you have an expansion tank on your hot water system?. On city water systems the meters may not have had black flow preventers so as the water heated up it would expand back into the city water system. When the replace the meter they usually install a back flow preventer and when the water is heated up there is nowhere for the water to expand so it caused a faucets to leak. I had a mystery leak on my well based system and it turned out to be this problem. I added a small expansion tank on the hot water side and the problem went away until I lost the bladder in the tank. The drop started again until I replaced the tank.
 
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I would replace that, would not waste any time in the old style. The news ones are all cartridge type ,get a good brand. And when you do the remodel you wont need to buy a new one. A good brand will guarantee those cartridges for life.
 
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I have the same hokey stud right beside the two faucet valve too! They actually attach the shower head to the side of the stud. It's right in the way for modern plumbing if you want to center your handle, spout, and shower head.
 
Before you take drastic action, find a good, experienced plumber and have him take a look. It may be a quick fix to an experienced plumber.
Thanks to all for the advice.

Turns out it was a quick fix, and I didn't need a plumber - just a wack upside the head. When looking at some YouTube videos, I realized that I hadn't put any pipe tape or joint compound on the valve seats, when I replaced them originally. Took it apart, put a good winding of tape around the seat, tightened it nice and snug... problem solved. Though I do feel a bit stupid to have neglected that the first time around.