Electric Saw Sharpener on .325" chain

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Dobish

Minister of Fire
Oct 26, 2015
2,040
Golden CO
I have a harbor freight chainsaw sharpener (http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-61613.html) that says that it is good for 1/4" and 3/8" chains.

Can I use this on my .325" chain or will it do damage to the chains? I have a file guide and file, and normally I do it by hand, but this was given to me and i thought that it might be a quick way to get a bit more out of my chains.
 
Yes you can use this on your 325.Just be careful. This thing is flimsy. How do I know? Simple, I bought one and yes I sharpened many chains with it. The main hinge had a crack in it. I used a tie rap and this helped.I have since bought a Jolly Star and have not looked back.
 
did you use the factory angle, or did (DO) you ever adjust chain angles? i am thinking about trying to see if I can get a 25º angle on one of my chains and see if it lasts any longer. my blades seem to dull pretty quick with a 30º, and I am sure it is a combination of the dirty box elder, a saw that loves to guzzle bar oil, and I may be pushing it a bit to get through those last little pieces before I go change the blade.
 
I have one and it’s great. Like any grinder, the first time you use it on a chain the chain will lose a decent amount of metal to conform to the new wheel shape and angle. Don’t change anything after the first cut in. Just touch up the chains with minimal grinding to get them sharp again and enjoy the very long chain life.

Sharpen 3-4 at a time and change the chain as soon as you notice dullness. No need to try too hard to run it dull as your sharpening effort is easier when the chain is only half spent.

The hf grinder is actually one of their better deals. Mine has been great and paid for itself the first time I sharpened my chains.
 
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I have a harbor freight chainsaw sharpener (http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-61613.html) that says that it is good for 1/4" and 3/8" chains.

Can I use this on my .325" chain or will it do damage to the chains? I have a file guide and file, and normally I do it by hand, but this was given to me and I thought that it might be a quick way to get a bit more out of my chains.

Don't worry, it will work fine. I also have the same model and it is working great. If you still have any doubts, you can check out this amazing guide which helped me to choose my chainsaw sharpener: https://www.consumersbase.com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/
 
i still have this, but i really don't use it unless i am trying to really bring back a chain to life. since i got the 2n1 and file more regularly on the fly, i haven't really needed it.
 
I've used the HF chainsaw sharpener for many years on both .325 and .375 chains, no issue. I think the .375 stay sharp longer and tolerate dirt better than .325, and therefore use my Husky 372XPG, bought in 2002, with .375 almost exclusively. I had 11 chains, now 10 (one broke last week, first time ever), that I sharpen all at once and use them until all need sharpening again, with hand file touch-up about 2-3 times between machine sharpening. Sharpening multiple chains all at the same time means the settings on the sharpener also are the same each time also, makes for easy sharpening. The cutters on these chains are now getting quite thin, and likely soon will have to get new chains, and will change the drive sprocket at the same time. I cut 8-10 cords of stove wood every year, plus fell trees for lumber as needed.
 
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i still have this, but i really don't use it unless i am trying to really bring back a chain to life. since i got the 2n1 and file more regularly on the fly, i haven't really needed it.

I’m surprised, I figured that anyone would stick with a grinder, once they tried it. Getting back to your 2 year old OP, there are three standard wheels used with grinders of this type, to mimic the varying file sizes for different chains. I use the medium (5.2mm) wheel to mimic 13/64 (or 7/32) file size on my 33RS chains, and the thinner (4.0mm?) wheel on my Picco chains.

I don’t like taking even a minute out of my time in the woods, to stop and sharpen a chain, nor do I feel like fumbling with a file in the snowy cold. I simply swap them out, and then sharpen the spent chains on the grinder while listening to the radio in my heated garage one night the following week.
 
I’m surprised, I figured that anyone would stick with a grinder, once they tried it.

I don’t like taking even a minute out of my time in the woods, to stop and sharpen a chain, nor do I feel like fumbling with a file in the snowy cold. I simply swap them out, and then sharpen the spent chains on the grinder while listening to the radio in my heated garage one night the following week.

At this point, I don't cut in the cold and snow any more, just in my back yard or driveway. Also, I don't have a heated garage..... yet, so its either set the grinder up on the outside bench, or in the storage room. My work shop has become almost unusable of late, since we are trying to store all of the stuff that was in multiple sheds and our rental unit in there....

I have a spot for the grinder on the bench planned out when I get the new garage/workshop space all set up, so I will probably go back to that when I get a setup that is actually worth using.
 
325- roughly a 3mm wheel 2or 2.5mm better but as those last 2 are not readily available you can dress the back side up so the cutting area/ radius of the wheel is smaller
 
I use the HF sharpener as well. I had a coupon and it was 25$ OTD. Yes it a bit flimsy but it does a find job for me. Yeah the box says it’s good from 1/4-3/8. However I use the wheel it came with for my .325 chain which is the 1/8” wheel. I bought a 3/16” wheel for my 3/8” chain.
 
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I've used the HF chainsaw sharpener for many years on both .325 and .375 chains, no issue. I think the .375 stay sharp longer and tolerate dirt better than .325, and therefore use my Husky 372XPG, bought in 2002, with .375 almost exclusively. I had 11 chains, now 10 (one broke last week, first time ever), that I sharpen all at once and use them until all need sharpening again, with hand file touch-up about 2-3 times between machine sharpening. Sharpening multiple chains all at the same time means the settings on the sharpener also are the same each time also, makes for easy sharpening. The cutters on these chains are now getting quite thin, and likely soon will have to get new chains, and will change the drive sprocket at the same time. I cut 8-10 cords of stove wood every year, plus fell trees for lumber as needed.

Sounds like you've gotten a decade plus out of your chains. I might look into the HF Sharpener
 
I’ve been using mine for a couple years now and I like it. Learning curve for sure, but now I really take my time as to not remove any more than I have to. I use my 2 in 1 for my 3/8” and the HF for my .325 and picco chains