Saw selection.

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I think "big" is relative for most homeowner type saws since they are usually less than 60cc. I think most folks doing occasional firewood cutting are comfortable with a a 40-50cc saw, the 60-70cc pro style saws can be more of a handful. Again, all relative depending on the person.
I agree with everything you’re saying. Where we fail to connect is that the OP is the specific person who said he needed to process 50” diameter logs. That’s big stuff, no matter how you slice it.
 
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I hear good things about the ECHO Timber Wolf CS-590, 60cc saw for $400. And you can get them from an actual dealer, so if you have an issue they can service the saw for you. I used to use Sears saws back in the day, they're a waste of money in my opinion.
 
I hear good things about the ECHO Timber Wolf CS-590, 60cc saw for $400. And you can get them from an actual dealer, so if you have an issue they can service the saw for you. I used to use Sears saws back in the day, they're a waste of money in my opinion.
That Timber Wolf is a great saw. almost 60cc with a 20" bar is perfect. The five year warranty on it is fantastic as well. I'm really starting to like mine a lot. The rest of my saws are Husqvarna and I have nothing bad to say about them either. My 455 Rancher has put up with years of hard work.
 
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I like your idea about the 450 I called my local dealer and got a quote for a 450 with 18 and 20 inch bars and chains and a hard case out the door for 490. Looks like I can save for a few weeks and spring for it. I got some cash coming my way for a big fencing job I did might use that to buy the saw.
So heres my thought on the saw your listing. Its a little big. Large saws get heavy after a while. Your looking for a mid size all around saw untill you save enough for your next saw. I have a 450 x torq at my shop for the men to use. Its light and is verry versatile. Its a 380 doller saw. Light and will except a number of bars. The money you saved from the 460 your looking at will allow you to purchas different bars additional chain and files to keep you going. Then at this point your set up for a while. The first pic below is some 40in stuff that this saw will cut. Keep in mined that your not going to be cutting like this all the time so no real worries on over working the saw, you not cutting like this all the time. This will buy you time to upgrade to more specific equipment if you fined your self cutting more often. Getting fully set up can get costly so take it slow. The 2nd pic is my son in the trac, age 8, lifting up some oak. I was using the 450 on that tree, thats 24 to 28in stuff. From reading above @pen is saying the same. Its a good starter sawView attachment 230586 View attachment 230587

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I like your idea about the 450 I called my local dealer and got a quote for a 450 with 18 and 20 inch bars and chains and a hard case out the door for 490. Looks like I can save for a few weeks and spring for it. I got some cash coming my way for a big fencing job I did might use that to buy the saw.

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Good for you. We all hope this works out for you. When you get the saw and use it please let us k ow how you make out. Shoot some picks and lets see some wood CSS

@Zack R thanks for the reply to @Ashful as you are right on with your thought. It was a super busy day and i haven had time to reply.

@Jazzberry the pic with the trac was to show the 40in stuff. The part of the 8yr old being in it is the proud father part. Actually in both pics my son is running the machine. I like to make this enjoyable for me and the kids, good quality time
 
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I really had no idea where I was headed to begin with you guys were a big help and provided a lot of prospective and advice. So if anything you have helped me steer in the right direction. Thanks a bundle.
Sounds like you have a solid plan, hopefully we didn't steer you too far off course.

Here's another craigslist find, I can't resist! Not local to you but the same saw I run, who know's its from a business so they might ship...

https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/tls/d/husqvarna-365-full-wrap-pro/6719086821.html

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Thanks everyone for taking the time to reply and research I've got a good idea where to go from here. I'll post some pics and updates when I get a saw and finish with this tree.

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I might be able to spring for a Husqvarna in a month or two. I don't want something that is going to break down in the middle of a job. Would be able to go after bigger stuff if I had a good solid saw. After reading what you all have to say I think it would be worth saving up for good quality saw that should last a long time. Just going to use the tractor to roll this big log up onto some pallets until I get something to cut it up with.

I'm sort of wary of getting a used saw I don't want to get something someone has abused and have it not hold up if I start taking on bigger jobs.

We have a Husqvarna dealer in town probably get one there and have them tune it for me. Are the ranchers good saws? Probably would get a smaller bar to use for bucking when not at the house, and use my cordless saws for limbs and small stuff at home.

You guys are great. I'm glad I joined this site. Thanks again for all the replies.
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Good saw, I just sold one for $250 that was 2 years old and barely used. The only reason I got rid of it was after buying a 362 and 441 it never got picked up again.
 
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Last year I cut up a red oak that was over 50 inches at the base... so I'm looking for a now and then saw to deal with monster size stuff.

I like your idea about the 450 I called my local dealer and got a quote for a 450 with 18 and 20 inch bars...
Nothing wrong with a 450, but you're not going to cut "monster size stuff" with a 450 wearing a 20" bar. It just isn't going to happen.
 
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Nothing wrong with a 450, but you're not going to cut "monster size stuff" with a 450 wearing a 20" bar. It just isn't going to happen.

Can be done but it is a real pain in the ass to do.
 

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Can be done but it is a real pain in the ass to do.

Nice! But unless I’m forgetting something from my 9th grade Geometry, there’s no way to get a 20” bar to the center of a 50” tree.
 
Nice! But unless I’m forgetting something from my 9th grade Geometry, there’s no way to get a 20” bar to the center of a 50” tree.

I was out picking up some firewood guy cut a tree down I should’ve taken pictures. He used a little echo 310 with a 16 inch bar and cut down a 38 inch tree. Literally cut a circle 16 inches deep around the base of the tree and hooked a tractor to it. Pulled it when it went it went about 160° away from the direction he pulled it. Anything is possible.
 
I was out picking up some firewood guy cut a tree down I should’ve taken pictures. He used a little echo 310 with a 16 inch bar and cut down a 38 inch tree. Literally cut a circle 16 inches deep around the base of the tree and hooked a tractor to it. Pulled it when it went it went about 160° away from the direction he pulled it. Anything is possible.

Oh, definitely. And you can easily fell a tree with DBH > 2x bar length by plunging the bar into the middle of the tree at the face cut. But that technique doesn’t work for bucking logs, you need a bar length > dia/2.
 
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I don't think I'm going to be taking on any more 50" stuff for a wile if i can help it. It was a nightmare getting it out of the woods and even worse getting it loaded. there are a few big standing dead ash trees at my dad's place I'm going to get and its going to be more than my cordless saw wants to do. So a solid middle ground saw for field work and use the cordless at home. Going to keep my eyes out at swap meets and farm sales for a monster saw for occasional use.

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I was out picking up some firewood guy cut a tree down I should’ve taken pictures. He used a little echo 310 with a 16 inch bar and cut down a 38 inch tree. Literally cut a circle 16 inches deep around the base of the tree and hooked a tractor to it. Pulled it when it went it went about 160° away from the direction he pulled it. Anything is possible.

He was probably getting paid by the hour.
 
I have a 590 TW w/18” bar, red headed step child in the orange and white fleet but I seem to grab it more than any of the others. It’s been a good saw so far
 
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Good choice with the Echo, been hearing lots of good things from them. For the price point you cant really do much better. Just keep you chains sharp and the air filter clean and it should last.
 
I haven’t used a modern Echo saw, but I have owned older (1980’s & 1990’s) Echo saws, and other equipment. My summary opinion, which might only apply to that vintage, was that my Echo saws were every bit as reliable as any Stihl or Husqvarna, but the performance and ergonomics were both poor.

My last Echo, a 510 EVL (“evil”) started every time I needed it, but it was heaviest damn 50 cc saw I’ve ever handled. Also, the chain brake lever was too close to the handle to use with gloves on, and the filler caps for fuel and oil were way too small, and both hidden under the chain brake lever. It was impossible to fuel and oil that damn thing without a funnel or making a mess. Also, wood chips and sawdust would collect in the linkage behind the air filter, causing the throttle to stick open, if it wasn’t cleaned out at least a few times per year. So, you’d finish a cut, and the saw wouldn’t idle down, the chain would just keep spinning. After opening the air cover and blowing out the linkage with compressed air, it would work fine for another few months.

Maybe they’ve improved in the years since, but when I check their power/weight ratios, it seems they’re still way behind Stihl and Husqvarna.
 
I haven’t used a modern Echo saw, but I have owned older (1980’s & 1990’s) Echo saws, and other equipment. My summary opinion, which might only apply to that vintage, was that my Echo saws were every bit as reliable as any Stihl or Husqvarna, but the performance and ergonomics were both poor.

My last Echo, a 510 EVL (“evil”) started every time I needed it, but it was heaviest damn 50 cc saw I’ve ever handled. Also, the chain brake lever was too close to the handle to use with gloves on, and the filler caps for fuel and oil were way too small, and both hidden under the chain brake lever. It was impossible to fuel and oil that damn thing without a funnel or making a mess. Also, wood chips and sawdust would collect in the linkage behind the air filter, causing the throttle to stick open, if it wasn’t cleaned out at least a few times per year. So, you’d finish a cut, and the saw wouldn’t idle down, the chain would just keep spinning. After opening the air cover and blowing out the linkage with compressed air, it would work fine for another few months.

Maybe they’ve improved in the years since, but when I check their power/weight ratios, it seems they’re still way behind Stihl and Husqvarna.


That's a good summary on the old echo's. The older Pioneer saws, and many other premium grade saws from years past were like this, compared to the Stihl and Husqvarna's. And that is why Stihl and Husqvarna own the market today. I was never loyal at all to any one brand, until I finally stepped up and bought a couple of Stihl pro saws years ago. Better design, better ergonomics (for me, along with the Dolmar's,) better saws.

I've recently sold several of my larger pro saws, and the Stihl hold their value the best as well. They really are great saws. But, I also enjoy running the other brands as well, but they have not held up as well as the Stihl pro saws, or been as enjoyable to use. I have 2 smaller Echo saws now, both like new, and they both are a pleasure to use.
 
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If the op could find a ~70-75cc saw with a 28” bar, that would take care of just about anything he could find. Cutting from both sides would let him cut 55” logs.

@Ashful
I have 50cc and 65cc saws, both ported (I like porting saws). The 50cc will outcut 60+cc saws and can pull a 20+” bar. The 65cc will hang with some bigger dogs, like the 440 ad 460, and wears a 28” bar with pride.
 
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If the op could find a ~70-75cc saw with a 28” bar, that would take care of just about anything he could find. Cutting from both sides would let him cut 55” logs.

@Ashful
I have 50cc and 65cc saws, both ported (I like porting saws). The 50cc will outcut 60+cc saws and can pull a 20+” bar. The 65cc will hang with some bigger dogs, like the 440 ad 460, and wears a 28” bar with pride.

That’s cool. I’ve been toying with the idea of replacing the 064 with a ported 75cc saw, but my local saw shop is so against porting saws, they have talked me out of it so far. Their argument, everything on that saw motor is designed for “x” horsepower, and they see too many where someone pushes a little more out of it, and other components begin to fail.

Knowing they’re designed by Germans, and I being an engineer who used to work in Germany, I suspect there is at least some truth to their argument.

Then again, it would be a heck of a lot nicer to power my larger bars with a 44x than a 66x, as I get older. Saw weight has never mattered much to me, but I’m sure that will change over the lifetime of my next saw, I tend to keep them for at least a decade or two.
 
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Chainsaws - slippery slope- dang things multiply- in cc's 35, 50, 65, 80 and the little tike at 120cc wearing a 42" bar.
 
@Ashful
I have 50cc and 65cc saws, both ported (I like porting saws). The 50cc will outcut 60+cc saws and can pull a 20+” bar.

I always wanted to try a heavily modified saw so a couple years back I had my Jonsered 2252 ported, muffler modded, and built with high top piston compression around the 205psi mark and it destroys every stock 60cc saw wearing 18 inch bar I have ever used, owned, or cut with. It’s still running I was afraid it would blow itself up. Nope. Friend of mine has a newer 362stihl. I put a 20 inch bar on my 50cc johnny in .325 just to see since he had a 20 inch on his in 3/8 and it still outcut the bigger saw. Was pretty obvious actually in the moment.

I agree 50 inch wood and a 60cc timber wolf definitely not enough saw. Get a decent 70cc saw if bigger for wood that size.
 
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