Domestic Hot Water Temp Issue

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
I’d recommend putting in a whole house inline water filter while you’re at it. They’re inexpensive and easy to install. Filters are available at home centers. You wouldn’t think you’d need one until you saw what a used filter looks like that comes out of one after a few months.
Thanks, I think we will likely go this route after all the water tests are confirmed. Since we're talking wells/filters now...do you have a UV filter or anything else for bacteria? Our bacteria tests always come back 0, just being cautious as we have young children and since we'll probably install some sort of whole home filter for sediment anyways, wondering if I should serioulsy think about adding anything for bacteria or if it's a waste of money?
 
I only have the inline filter right after the well pressure tank, and a water softener. The filter catches sand and iron sediment mostly and the softener helps with scale buildup on plumbing fixtures and dishes and also makes the water softer for bathing. I’ve been happy but every situation and well is different. Any fancy filtration or UV treatment system will always sound like a necessity coming from their respective salesman but I think it boils down to whether or not the water actually needs it.
 
I only have the inline filter right after the well pressure tank, and a water softener. The filter catches sand and iron sediment mostly and the softener helps with scale buildup on plumbing fixtures and dishes and also makes the water softer for bathing. I’ve been happy but every situation and well is different. Any fancy filtration or UV treatment system will always sound like a necessity coming from their respective salesman but I think it boils down to whether or not the water actually needs it.

Good to know. I actually just pulled our home inspection report, and he did a very basic water test (bacteria, PH, Water hardness) - this guys report on water testing section basically states this isn't his prime focus on inspection and to consult with a water treatment specialist, but the results are below anyways.

Ecoli/bacteria - 0
PH - 8
Water Hardness in grains: 15

Doing a quick google, looks like 15 is very high for water hardness? I guess I was wrong. That is of course if his testing was done correctly. I will have to wait for the plumber to confirm. Looks like we may be headed into the water softener and whole home filter route now. I think I will stay clear of any fancy filtration or UV filters since our bacteria tests have always been 0. I don't want to get sucked into that.

Now that we might be headed into water softener territory, a new question on that. Is there an issue with using a water softener and having a septic system? I've read they can clog, or even eat away at the septic tank? I know this is off topic, but all still connected to FPHX getting clogged I suppose.

For anyone reading, I am a first time home owner, and this is my first experience being on a Well...that's why I don't know any of this. Never had to deal with it before. All new to me.
 
I wouldn't bother with the UV filter. I you are testing your water twice a year, you are probably already being much more careful then most people out there. I know I tested my well when I bought my house and that was it, then it was tested when I sold the house 13 years later and it tested high for coliform bacteria. My wife, my self and 2 bos were drinking it and no one was sick but from what I have read is that if your well has coliform bacteria its kind of a warning that it is at risk for E col which will make you very sick. I had to have a UV filter installed for the house to sell. It was about $1000 installed here in N.S.

Back to you DHW, if I'm following this correctly, it seem like your FPHX is just acting like a pre heater for yoru well water entering your Electric hot water tank. It doesn't have a circ on it like Maple explained . So it makes perfect sense to me that either your really hard water and/or debris is clogging the FPHX, there for reducing your water pressure on all hot water fixtures. The water will still be hot because the electric elements will keep it hot once its in the tank.
 
I wouldn't bother with the UV filter. I you are testing your water twice a year, you are probably already being much more careful then most people out there. I know I tested my well when I bought my house and that was it, then it was tested when I sold the house 13 years later and it tested high for coliform bacteria. My wife, my self and 2 bos were drinking it and no one was sick but from what I have read is that if your well has coliform bacteria its kind of a warning that it is at risk for E col which will make you very sick. I had to have a UV filter installed for the house to sell. It was about $1000 installed here in N.S.

Back to you DHW, if I'm following this correctly, it seem like your FPHX is just acting like a pre heater for yoru well water entering your Electric hot water tank. It doesn't have a circ on it like Maple explained . So it makes perfect sense to me that either your really hard water and/or debris is clogging the FPHX, there for reducing your water pressure on all hot water fixtures. The water will still be hot because the electric elements will keep it hot once its in the tank.
Thanks for the info. We aren't doing the UV filter. You pretty much hit the nail on the head with the FPHX, except during normal operation I keep the electric elements tstat turned down to 52C just for backup, the water heater doesn't actually turn on, the on-demand heating, and insulated hot water tank keep the water hot enough for us so far. For troubleshooting purposes, for the last month, the water heater is actually completely powered down from the breaker...the water is still plenty hot enough, just the hot water pressure as described above. Plumbers are coming this week to hopefully resolve.
 
Update: I had some water tests done over the weekend from 2 different company's, yes, it is looking like the hard water is the issue as discussed earlier.

Water Hardness in grains - 10-15 grains (one company said 10, one said 15, and original home inspector's report from years ago was 15)
pH - 7-8 (one company said 7, another 7.5, and original from home inspector was 8)
Iron - None
Sulfur - None
Bacteria None

So I have a local plumber installing a water softener this week to get the well water treated before he flush's out FPHX and installs by-pass valves, etc. Just an unrelated note, we got price quotes from two "big" water companies on water softeners, and they came back ridiculously high. Ended up buying a good Whirlpool one from Lowes on sale way cheaper with a decent warranty and the plumber will install. The quoted prices were honestly insane and they were for smaller units then the one I ended up buying from Lowes.

I do have a question on cleaning solution for the FPHX, would you just suggest CLR or is there something better/stronger available? I watched some youtube videos on using "One Shot" and other "acid" solutions, but it looked very strong and dangerous, was also worried strong acid solutions could ruin any seals in the FPHX if there are any. So suggestions on cleaning solution?
 
I use "The Works". Readily available and cleans quickly. But don't circulate longer than you have to, no reason to risk damaging the copper brazing (with any cleaner).
 
Update: Issue resolved. FPHX flushed out with RydLyme on Well water side, by-pass/flushing valves setup for future, along with a by-pass on mixing valve. Water softener installed, using Potassium Chloride. Night and Day difference between water quality comfort in shower and the hot water pressure. WOW. Plumber was also surprised FPHX clogged so fast (only took 2.5 months @ 15 grains hardness)...mine is a 30 plate HX, not sure if that makes a difference in regards to clogging faster. Regardless, it's fixed, the family is happy. Thanks folks for all the comments, info, and advice!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dutchie84
Any size flat plate can clog. The spacing between the plates are the same. Anyway, glad you got it fixed!
 
Update: Issue resolved. FPHX flushed out with RydLyme on Well water side, by-pass/flushing valves setup for future, along with a by-pass on mixing valve. Water softener installed, using Potassium Chloride. Night and Day difference between water quality comfort in shower and the hot water pressure. WOW. Plumber was also surprised FPHX clogged so fast (only took 2.5 months @ 15 grains hardness)...mine is a 30 plate HX, not sure if that makes a difference in regards to clogging faster. Regardless, it's fixed, the family is happy. Thanks folks for all the comments, info, and advice!
Good to hear!