Shelter SF3100

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

Gcj

New Member
Mar 6, 2019
17
Michigan
I have a 4mth old SF3100. I developed 2 cracks at the top of door on each side. I was told to send pictures of my set up. Once received they saw that a manual damper was installed on my chimney. Thet said that these caused the stove to over heat, hence the cracks. However, in the manual it recommends that a manual damper be installed. I am a little confused. Would the manual damper cause this problem?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mrpelletburner
There is no correlation between a manual damper and overfiring unless the furnace was overheated due to forgetting to close the manual damper in a high draft situation. Is there any other evidence of the furnace running at very high temperatures? If not, it might be a design issue. Are the door opening corners radiused or cut square?
 
I have a 4mth old SF3100. I developed 2 cracks at the top of door on each side. I was told to send pictures of my set up. Once received they saw that a manual damper was installed on my chimney. Thet said that these caused the stove to over heat, hence the cracks. However, in the manual it recommends that a manual damper be installed. I am a little confused. Would the manual damper cause this problem?

I have the Fire Chief FC1500 and after removing a side panel, I discovered the firebox had developed a crack. They replaced the unit without issue.

When was your unit built? Should state it on the top right side panel.
 
There is no correlation between a manual damper and overfiring unless the furnace was overheated due to forgetting to close the manual damper in a high draft situation. Is there any other evidence of the furnace running at very high temperatures? If not, it might be a design issue. Are the door opening corners radiused or cut square?
I have extreme warping on both sides of the fire box.
The door are slightly rounded at the corners.
 
I have the Fire Chief FC1500 and after removing a side panel, I discovered the firebox had developed a crack. They replaced the unit without issue.

When was your unit built? Should state it on the top right side panel.
It was built in 2016. I bought it in August 2017.
 
I have extreme warping on both sides of the fire box.
The door are slightly rounded at the corners.
That sounds pretty bad. Is there any temperature monitoring devices on the unit or at least a thermometer on the door?
 
I have extreme warping on both sides of the fire box.
The door are slightly rounded at the corners.


IMG_1615.jpg
IMG_0919.jpg

IMG_1585.jpg
 
It was built in 2016. I bought it in August 2017.

You are not the first to have the front crack and I think the 2016/2017 units are going to be prone to cracks as they were still using spacer blocks to capture heat.

Assuming you have a tall chimney? Did you happen to measure the draft? The only other way to damage the firebox is to burn with the ash pan opened or burn lots of cardboard. Assuming they asked you if you did either?

Spacer welded to capture excess heat.
IMG_1772.jpg
IMG_1773.jpg


No spacer
IMG_1768.jpg
 
I have a 4mth old SF3100. I developed 2 cracks at the top of door on each side. I was told to send pictures of my set up. Once received they saw that a manual damper was installed on my chimney. Thet said that these caused the stove to over heat, hence the cracks. However, in the manual it recommends that a manual damper be installed. I am a little confused. Would the manual damper cause this problem?

There is no subtle way to say this - they are full of BS.

Fully, completely.
 
I have a thermometer on my chimney that never exceeds 350-400 degrees.

Is temperature gauge measuring the surface or inner temperatures?

Can you describe your chimney setup, location (middle of the house or outside wall) and height?

Were you measuring the draft and tried to set via a manual damper?

From my experience, you would have to get that fire box glowing hot in order to really damage the unit. I still think this is an early unit and some early units have cracked.

Are they replacing the unit?

As unreliable as these units are, HY-C has been very good at standing by their product.
 
Once received they saw that a manual damper was installed on my chimney. Thet said that these caused the stove to over heat, hence the cracks. However, in the manual it recommends that a manual damper be installed. I am a little confused. Would the manual damper cause this problem?
There is no subtle way to say this - they are full of BS.

Fully, completely.
Yup, what maple said...100% full of crap...as in: running out of their ears full.
A manual damper will only reduce draft, which reduces the firebox and flue temperatures too...a damper, manual or auto (barometric) will never increase draft (firebox/flue temperature)
These guys at HY-C really need to go back to school...because this is "Chimney 101" stuff that they seem to not have one iota of understanding on...
 
  • Like
Reactions: sloeffle
I never burn anything other than wood. Until yesterday the only wood that was burned in it was ash.
Doesn't sound like you did anything wrong...these things are a really poor design...and the manufacturer doesn't seem to understand how to install them so they don't over fire...which is what causes cracks in 4 months.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Mrpelletburner
Is temperature gauge measuring the surface or inner temperatures?

Can you describe your chimney setup, location (middle of the house or outside wall) and height?

Were you measuring the draft and tried to set via a manual damper?

From my experience, you would have to get that fire box glowing hot in order to really damage the unit. I still think this is an early unit and some early units have cracked.

Are they replacing the unit?

As unreliable as these units are, HY-C has been very good at standing by their product.
Any chance you can post up some photos of the damage?

Yup, what maple said...100% full of crap...as in: running out of their ears full.
A manual damper will only reduce draft, which reduces the firebox and flue temperatures too...a damper, manual or auto (barometric) will never increase draft (firebox/flue temperature)
These guys at HY-C really need to go back to school...because this is "Chimney 101" stuff that they seem to not have one iota of understanding on...
I thought I was missing something. I burned wood for the past 10 years with a hot blast always using the damper to adjust my fire. That is why I was confused with their explanation.
 
Here are 3 pictures of the fire box.
4. Months. Old. !!!!!!!!!
Hey HY-C...if y'all readin this...this is what not controlling chimney draft does for ya! Buy a stinkin clue guys!
Oh, and you guys owe this fellah a new furnace...:mad:
 
Here are 3 pictures of the fire box.

I am not a fan of the SS panels as mine are also warped, just not that bad.

Wonder if the panels were installed without the ceramic backing as they look folded in.

Willing to bet that the panels warped, allowing heat behind the panel and that is what cracked the firebox.

Hands down, they should replace that unit.
 
If you remove the screws for the top panel and the 3 on each side of the front panel. That will allow you to lift the top up slightly and pull the front panel off. With the panel removed, look inside and see if you have further damage.
 
Wow, what a train wreck.

Got that right!
Hy-C, hands down, gives all of us entertainment here on this forum, unfortunately, at the expense of others. :(
 
  • Like
Reactions: Case1030