Best way to cut out damper?

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jpcjguy

Member
Jul 1, 2015
70
richmond, va
Hi all,

So I am going to install my Enviro 1700 and will order a 6" insulated kit from RockfordChimneySupply.com I need to cut out some of my damper frame to fit the pipe. Is there a recommended way or just hack at it? I assume there is no way to keep it all intact? I can remove the damper itself, but the I guess the sawsall /grinder for the rest? Here are some pics:
 

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Hi all,

So I am going to install my Enviro 1700 and will order a 6" insulated kit from RockfordChimneySupply.com I need to cut out some of my damper frame to fit the pipe. Is there a recommended way or just hack at it? I assume there is no way to keep it all intact? I can remove the damper itself, but the I guess the sawsall /grinder for the rest? Here are some pics:
On that type of damper you usually just have to cut the back out. A grinder to cut most of it then hit it with a hammer. If you need more room pull a brick or 2 out of the back wall
 
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On that type of damper you usually just have to cut the back out. A grinder to cut most of it then hit it with a hammer. If you need more room pull a brick or 2 out of the back wall

When you say the back - the hinge side? I assume that I can take the pin out of the handle and then remove the hinged section. I would then cut out the section I have in yellow in the below pic? The red is roughly where the pipe would be.

Thanks
 

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When you say the back - the hinge side? I assume that I can take the pin out of the handle and then remove the hinged section. I would then cut out the section I have in yellow in the below pic? The red is roughly where the pipe would be.

Thanks
Yes that part but i usually cut it out a couple inches from the sides.
 
So not in the middle like i have in the pic - like this:
Cut it a couple of inches from the sides on both sides. Take the whole middle out and throw the parts up on the smoke shelf so if anyone ever wants to go back to an open fireplace they can.
 
Angle grinder & sawzaw with demo blades, something like this...
 

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@bholler. I have been wondering this for a bit. You said you cut the piece out and put on smoke shelf. How would one then go about re-establishing a conventional fireplace. Weld the cut piece back? Just curious as later this summer when I do my insert, I don't want to mangle or hack up the damper parts too much.
 
@bholler. I have been wondering this for a bit. You said you cut the piece out and put on smoke shelf. How would one then go about re-establishing a conventional fireplace. Weld the cut piece back? Just curious as later this summer when I do my insert, I don't want to mangle or hack up the damper parts too much.
The one I have put back I just bolted it back in place with mending plates.
 
Like Hogz said, I used a sawzall with an aggressive metal blade on it, and it cut like butter.
 
Like Hogz said, I used a sawzall with an aggressive metal blade on it, and it cut like butter.
A grinder works best for the type of damper frame in question
 
Yes, and the damper is metal, which is what he will be cutting.
Yeah but the metal he is cutting is cast iron not plate steel like the one you pictured. He will also only be cutting through roughly 2" of 1/4" cast which is usually imbedded in masonry. Sawzalls don't work well in this case. They do with heat forms like you posted though.
 
@bholler. I have been wondering this for a bit. You said you cut the piece out and put on smoke shelf. How would one then go about re-establishing a conventional fireplace. Weld the cut piece back? Just curious as later this summer when I do my insert, I don't want to mangle or hack up the damper parts too much.
You can put a top damper on, easy peasy.
 
So I got my pre-insulated liner from Rockford Chimney Supply yesterday. I have rented a 35' lift because I don't want to be that high on a ladder with the liner!
I pulled the damper plate out. I now realize that I might be looking at quite a bit of masonry demo because when I knock on the either side, it "thuds". . So angle grinder for the frame and hammer for knocking some brick out? Looking at the attached damper pic, I figure the yellow lines in the pic are the metal that I can cut out. Then I guess chip away some of the blue side? This is going to be fun......
 

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So this morning I did the "hacking". That job sucked. Looks like I had a over eager mason - the build up of mortar behind the metal was unbelievable! I did test fit the tube from the inside. have about 3/4" inch clearance
 

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So ended up going up from the inside. The kit came in 2 20' sections with a coupler. What a pain that was!. I had a buddy push from the bottom while I pulled from the top on a rope we taped around it. If the chimney was any taller, not sure we would have been able to pull it off.
Looks like when I pulled on the rope the outer jacket extended some. I ended up cutting it off flush - glad I ordered a 40' so there was plenty!
Below are some pics of the job. The liner is not perfectly straight in the flue, but it was the best we could do....
 

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The two Ive done we went top down. Not saying it was easy.
 
My nephew and I pulled and shoved heavy-wall from the bottom, with a nose cone. Oooof!! <> Luckily it was only 18' or so, but it was slightly curvy.
 
We pull up about half of the insert liner we do. But we have a hoist to do it with. I would drop it if I didn't have a hoist. It is much easier.
 
So ended up going up from the inside. The kit came in 2 20' sections with a coupler. What a pain that was!. I had a buddy push from the bottom while I pulled from the top on a rope we taped around it. If the chimney was any taller, not sure we would have been able to pull it off.
Looks like when I pulled on the rope the outer jacket extended some. I ended up cutting it off flush - glad I ordered a 40' so there was plenty!
Below are some pics of the job. The liner is not perfectly straight in the flue, but it was the best we could do....
Something doesn't seem right about that top setup. There should be no exposed insulation at all.