Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...

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Do you have a heat pack? The tool does seem alittle small for the center tube. I assume they just shrunk the side tubes on this unit for what ever reason compared to the tundra and heatmax.
I have a Tundra 2. The outside tubes are smaller than the center, the tool is sized for them I believe. Is a bit small for the center but works fine.
 
Heat exchanger tubes on the Caddy. They definitely look bigger than the ones on the heat pack.

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I assume they just shrunk the side tubes on this unit for what ever reason compared to the tundra and heatmax.
I bet they accidently gave you a Tundra/Caddy sized tool instead of the one for the Heatpak...if not, then that is just lame.
 
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What do you guys aim for with draft for you flue? The drolet manual says .04 to .06 which seems low to me? That's pretty much exactly what I'm getting. I feel like my unit could use some more air to keep secondarie going? They seem kind of low for me. I'm burning standing dead red elm which my moisture meter is saying 20%? I thought maybe I wasnt getting enough draft. I installed a barometric damper today. And tested my draft. Turns out I didnt really need one. And I'm coming to the conclusion that my wood is to wet and my meter isnt very accurate?

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Do you have a small nail keeping the damper open slightly?
 
Not at the moment I was worried before todo that because I didn't have the BD but now that I do I think I will do it more often. Hopefully by next season my wood will be under 20%.

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And I've also had loads of wood that were super dry and burned really hot. The burned down really quick. I was worried that if I ended up with drier wood than I thought and did the nail the fire would get out of control.. now I have my BD installed so I have more piece of mind.

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Wet wood will act that way...and elm doesn't usually produce great secondaries...likes to coal up real well though!
I ran -0.04/5 mainly. Might tweak it up to 6 if it's real cold and need to burn wood a little faster...
 
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I ran my baro at .06 for a while, then jacked it up to .08 for a couple days -- I didn't really notice a difference one way or the other, so I put it back to .06. When set to .08, it will reach that easily, but it didn't seem to affect the performance noticeably.

On coals: I recently drilled out the zipper on my T2. It measured a bit under 1/4" (something metric, I assume), so I drilled it out to 1/4". That was perhaps a bit of reduction in coaling, so I drilled it out to 5/16. It really burns off the coals, now; I have very little coals after 8 hours, whereas before I would have had a good solid layer to light off of. Drilling it 9/32" might have been the sweet spot for me, but I think 5/16" is going to work.

Drilling out the zipper is a pretty permanent mod, so be cautious with this, please.
 
What does everyone use to supply power to their mypin temp controller?
 
I hooked into the incoming power of the Tundra...before any of the controls...assuming you have a 120v mypin...
 
I hooked into the incoming power of the Tundra...before any of the controls...assuming you have a 120v mypin...
Ok. Thanks. It says 90-260v ac/dc for supply power. Figured 120 was fine but wanted to be sure.
 
Wet wood will act that way...and elm doesn't usually produce great secondaries...likes to coal up real well though!
I ran -0.04/5 mainly. Might tweak it up to 6 if it's real cold and need to burn wood a little faster...
Once I close the stove down it goes right to .5 .4 and when it gets 4 or 5 hrs in it's even lower when theres not much secondaries. I dont think I needed the bd. Besides when I first burn with the damper open she was up to 1.2 before the bd. So I put it to .7.
 
Once I close the stove down it goes right to .5 .4 and when it gets 4 or 5 hrs in it's even lower when theres not much secondaries. I dont think I needed the bd. Besides when I first burn with the damper open she was up to 1.2 before the bd. So I put it to .7.
Maybe I'm just not following you here, but if it goes up to -0.12" while heating up the firebox, then it sure sounds to me like a baro is needed.
I wouldn't take the baro out...if you feel like you don't need it, just cover the opening with HD aluminum foil...then when you have a real cold or windy day where the draft is running sky high, or very erratic (and those days will come) you can pull the foil off and let the baro do its thing.
And yes, any pipe damper/regulator will only control the peak draft, not the lows...as the fire burns down the draft will slowly drop...how fast it drops is a function of your individual furnace model/wood type and quality/chimney/home/location/weather/etc...
 
I installed the Tundra heatmax this fall and have been overall pretty happy with it. But looking for some advice on extending burn times. I am burning well seasoned birch, moisture meter reads 10-13% on the inside of my splits. I have not measured draft, and not sure how to since I run double wall pipe, but I don’t believe I’m over drafting. Typically my slow burns are only lasting 2-3 hours And leave hot coals, but not enough to keep the blower cycling. Am I not adding enough wood initially? How full should I pack the firebox once I have a good fire going? Also is there anyway to adjust at what temp the blower kicks on or off?
 
I installed the Tundra heatmax this fall and have been overall pretty happy with it. But looking for some advice on extending burn times. I am burning well seasoned birch, moisture meter reads 10-13% on the inside of my splits. I have not measured draft, and not sure how to since I run double wall pipe, but I don’t believe I’m over drafting. Typically my slow burns are only lasting 2-3 hours And leave hot coals, but not enough to keep the blower cycling. Am I not adding enough wood initially? How full should I pack the firebox once I have a good fire going? Also is there anyway to adjust at what temp the blower kicks on or off?
If you are looking for a long burn, pack it full. How long are you leaving the damper open? There is no way to adjust the blower setpoints. others have installed resistors on the temp probe to essentially lower the temp when the blower turns on/off.
 
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If you are looking for a long burn, pack it full. How long are you leaving the damper open? There is no way to adjust the blower setpoints. others have installed resistors on the temp probe to essentially lower the temp when the blower turns on/off.

I start with 4-5 small 2-3” splits with kindling leaving the damper open for probably 30-40 min or until these splits have almost turned to coals but are still burning quick yellow flames. My problem might be I’m not packing the firebox full enough. I’ve been a little apprehensive about over firing. I’ve only been tossing in 4-5 larger 5-6” splits.
 
I start with 4-5 small 2-3” splits with kindling leaving the damper open for probably 30-40 min or until these splits have almost turned to coals but are still burning quick yellow flames. My problem might be I’m not packing the firebox full enough. I’ve been a little apprehensive about over firing. I’ve only been tossing in 4-5 larger 5-6” splits.

As long as your draft is in check you can pack the firebox and let her rip. As long as the damper is closed the fire is nice and controlled.

These stoves burn better the more wood you have in them. You get longer secondary burns that way.
 
I start with 4-5 small 2-3” splits with kindling leaving the damper open for probably 30-40 min or until these splits have almost turned to coals but are still burning quick yellow flames. My problem might be I’m not packing the firebox full enough. I’ve been a little apprehensive about over firing. I’ve only been tossing in 4-5 larger 5-6” splits.
Loading on some coals, I would only leave damper open for 20-25 minutes max. As long as wood is dry, just needs a good char so it off gases.