Regency F2400 Secondary burns and temps

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

ChadMc

Burning Hunk
Dec 12, 2019
170
Bucks County PA
Hey Im hoping theirs a Regency guru on here! We have been burning with the F2400 for a little over a month now. I feel like I have the thing pretty dialed in but every now and then it does some funny things. My biggest question is what is a comfortable stove top temp? When I do a full load it seems I can get the stove top well into 600-700 very quickly and as I am cutting the air back there seems to be a big difference from 75% open and 50-25% open. What I mean is at 75% open I have a very robust fire and temps rocking around 700 but when I cut it back to 50% open a lot of times the secondaries stay lit for a few minutes then go out. They will come back but it can take 10-15 mins all with a smokin chimney. I repeat this back and forth till finally I have the air closed, and secondaries burning before I am ready for bed. Im thinking maybe I need to let it cruise hard at 700 at 75% open for a while before I start closing. But I worry about an overfire and thats why I start to cut it back. The dealer said load, bring to temp, then close the air all the way. If I do that secondaries are done in a few minutes. Need some help here!!
 
Hey Im hoping theirs a Regency guru on here! We have been burning with the F2400 for a little over a month now. I feel like I have the thing pretty dialed in but every now and then it does some funny things. My biggest question is what is a comfortable stove top temp? When I do a full load it seems I can get the stove top well into 600-700 very quickly and as I am cutting the air back there seems to be a big difference from 75% open and 50-25% open. What I mean is at 75% open I have a very robust fire and temps rocking around 700 but when I cut it back to 50% open a lot of times the secondaries stay lit for a few minutes then go out. They will come back but it can take 10-15 mins all with a smokin chimney. I repeat this back and forth till finally I have the air closed, and secondaries burning before I am ready for bed. Im thinking maybe I need to let it cruise hard at 700 at 75% open for a while before I start closing. But I worry about an overfire and thats why I start to cut it back. The dealer said load, bring to temp, then close the air all the way. If I do that secondaries are done in a few minutes. Need some help here!!
How dry is your wood?
 
  • Like
Reactions: tadmaz
Hey Im hoping theirs a Regency guru on here! We have been burning with the F2400 for a little over a month now. I feel like I have the thing pretty dialed in but every now and then it does some funny things. My biggest question is what is a comfortable stove top temp? When I do a full load it seems I can get the stove top well into 600-700 very quickly and as I am cutting the air back there seems to be a big difference from 75% open and 50-25% open. What I mean is at 75% open I have a very robust fire and temps rocking around 700 but when I cut it back to 50% open a lot of times the secondaries stay lit for a few minutes then go out. They will come back but it can take 10-15 mins all with a smokin chimney. I repeat this back and forth till finally I have the air closed, and secondaries burning before I am ready for bed. Im thinking maybe I need to let it cruise hard at 700 at 75% open for a while before I start closing. But I worry about an overfire and thats why I start to cut it back. The dealer said load, bring to temp, then close the air all the way. If I do that secondaries are done in a few minutes. Need some help here!!
Sounds like wet wood or inadequate draft. How tall is your chimney and what type
 
The air control position will be relative to the installation and the wood. Instead of rocking it at 75% open, then 50%, try 60 or 65%. If the wood is not fully seasoned then that will have a major effect. Also, if the wood is mixed species, one fire or one side of the fire may burn differently than another, especially if it is a mix of ash and a dense hardwood like oak or hickory.
 
Sounds like a wood problem. I ran an F2400 for eight years and had no problem with turning it down. Full fire for the first 30 minutes, shut down air to 50% for another 15 minutes then shut it all the way for an 8 hour burn. Do watch the glass retainers - they will magically come loose after a while and draw air around the glass.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ChadMc
The stuff I have now is under 20% on a fresh split. At first I had some wood that was not great. I found a trusty wood guy and I have personally tested this with my moisture meter.
Was that at room temperature? Can you tell us about how the stove is installed?
 
Sounds like a wood problem. I ran an F2400 for eight years and had no problem with turning it down. Full fire for the first 30 minutes, shut down air to 50% for another 15 minutes then shut it all the way for an 8 hour burn. Do watch the glass retainers - they will magically come loose after a while and draw air around the glass.
Maybe the issue is not running it full open
long enough. My wood is under 20%. That’s on a fresh split. I guess I cut it down too soon cause at full open it looks like it’s going to go out of control north of 800. So I may only run it there so maybe 10 mins but at 10 mins I’m past 600 and climbing.
 
I have a very similar situation with my i2400. I am struggling to cut the air back, I don't think I have been close to completely closing it off. My wood is anywhere from 16-20%, I feel like I am usually running air at 50% to keep it decently burning. I also see a lot of smoke with cutting the air off, Chimney is around 25ft high on a two story traditional.
 
I have a very similar situation with my i2400. I am struggling to cut the air back, I don't think I have been close to completely closing it off. My wood is anywhere from 16-20%, I feel like I am usually running air at 50% to keep it decently burning. I also see a lot of smoke with cutting the air off, Chimney is around 25ft high on a two story traditional.
Have you tried cracking a nearby window?

Also have both of you checked your baffles to make sure they are positioned correctly?
 
I have a very similar situation with my i2400. I am struggling to cut the air back, I don't think I have been close to completely closing it off. My wood is anywhere from 16-20%, I feel like I am usually running air at 50% to keep it decently burning. I also see a lot of smoke with cutting the air off, Chimney is around 25ft high on a two story traditional.
I have a similar set up. At first I figured it’s got to be the wood. This winter I have to buy which has been a battle but I finally found a guy who had true seasoned stuff so at this point i don’t think it’s my wood. Just curious. What stove top temps do you see before cutting back?
 
I have a similar set up. At first I figured it’s got to be the wood. This winter I have to buy which has been a battle but I finally found a guy who had true seasoned stuff so at this point i don’t think it’s my wood. Just curious. What stove top temps do you see before cutting back?
Do you have a pipe thermometer?
 
Just a stove top. The pipe inside is double wall and was told not to use a thermo on it.
Inside what? With doublewall you just need to give you a faster more accurate idea of what is going on with the fire. Personally I don't find stovetop temps helpfully at all
 
Inside what? With doublewall you just need to give you a faster more accurate idea of what is going on with the fire. Personally I don't find stovetop temps helpfully at all
Inside the house I ment before it exits the exterior wall to the stainless pipe outside. Can a thermo be accurate on a double wall pipe?
 
Inside the house I ment before it exits the exterior wall to the stainless pipe outside. Can a thermo be accurate on a double wall pipe?
Not a surface thermometer no you would need a probe thermometer
 
Gotcha. Ok just curious how would that help me more then the stove top temps?
Flue gas temps react much faster than stovetop temps. It's a much more accurate way to know when to start closing down the air, especially with a digital probe thermometer.
 
Flue gas temps react much faster than stovetop temps. It's a much more accurate way to know when to start closing down the air, especially with a digital probe thermometer.
Ok makes sentences just to be clear a probe thermo would be something that inserts into the double wall pipe? The dealer mentioned they aren’t good because you don’t want to mess with the integrity of the pipe. Here is a pic of my set up. Again thermo is dead cent let of the stovetop.
 

Attachments

  • A3EF2A01-1CB5-4974-A156-8FC2C9534CFB.jpeg
    A3EF2A01-1CB5-4974-A156-8FC2C9534CFB.jpeg
    111.8 KB · Views: 119
Ok makes sentences just to be clear a probe thermo would be something that inserts into the double wall pipe? The dealer mentioned they aren’t good because you don’t want to mess with the integrity of the pipe. Here is a pic of my set up. Again thermo is dead cent let of the stovetop.
Yes it goes through a hole you drill in the pipe. I install one on all stoves with doublewall we work on and have never had an issue.
 
Had my best fire tonight. Let it run wide open about 15-20 minutes before taking the air down. I was probably running at 25-30% air most of the night. I pushed it all the way in on accident and watched for a bit and there was no way I could run with the all completely off.
 
Had my best fire tonight. Let it run wide open about 15-20 minutes before taking the air down. I was probably running at 25-30% air most of the night. I pushed it all the way in on accident and watched for a bit and there was no way I could run with the all completely off.
With the height you have you should be able to run it fully closed. That is why flue temp is important it lets you know if you are putting enough temp into the chimney or not
 
  • Like
Reactions: AlbergSteve