New Kuuma Vapor Fire Install

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I might be wrong here but on the kumma Isn’t the high temperature probe that is mounted in the plenum 250*?


nothing wrong with the dump opening before that high limit.
 
nothing wrong with the dump opening before that high limit.
My Yukon EHD came with the 210* link...and believe me, that monster ran higher duct temps than any Kuuma! (had to run 'er hot to keep the chimney from plugging up in less than 48 hours ;) ;lol
 
My Yukon EHD came with the 210* link...and believe me, that monster ran higher duct temps than any Kuuma! (had to run 'er hot to keep the chimney from plugging up in less than 48 hours ;) ;lol


yeah, I was going to mention we could get a way with a MUCH lower fusible link temp. As if our plenum temps even hit 150° there is something wrong. Well, I guess mine may in the middle of the winter when I temporarily shut my blower off when I re-load. I have a second low limit switch wired in as an emergency to a different speed tap on my blower in case my speed controller takes a dump. This is set to 175° and that has never tripped, even when I have shut my blower off when re-loading.
 
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Where is the fusible link installed? Inside the plenum?
No its in the EHD...which gets attached to the side of the plenum after a 12" ish hole is cut in the plenum
 
Any others that would be interested in an emergency heat dump? Considering making a few...

dude... don’t do it. The liability is insanely high. Super easy for some investigator to blame this device for causing the fire that burned the house down and killed the children. You could lose everything and end up in jail.

There’s a reason that the big boys with insurance and lawyers won’t build these things.
 
There’s a reason that the big boys with insurance and lawyers won’t build these things.
No, there is nobody left in the forced air wood furnace world that gives a rip about a EHD...they all just tell you not to install in a down-flow configuration, etc, etc...but I hear ya...liability/headache/hassle would be the main reason I don't do it, if I don't.
It's not like anybody is gonna become wealthy making them...last I seen Yukon's EHD was something like $169
 
It may not be pretty, but a dedicated opening close to the plenum within the living space feom the main trunk would be ideal. Power goes, trap opens into floor above and gravity takes hold. Our previous furnace during an outage would get so hot, water droplets would dance on the surface of the ductwork above it. Nothing that I would ever wish on anyone! But 6 cubic feet of firebox burning white hot during an outage was a fire waiting to happen.
 
I thought you were working from home?! ;) ;lol

Not yet...wanted to see how much interest there actually is first...have some ideas in mind for design...probably 12" x 12" (tall/wide) x 8" ish deep.
As far as the link, I was planning on the same one that came on my Yukon EHD https://www.mcmaster.com/1147A19/
If free labor equates to a free heat dump count me in for sure. I could probably run up there one weekend and help you if you want.
 
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If free labor equates to a free heat dump count me in for sure. I could probably run up there one weekend and help you if you want.
You sure you wanna expose yourself to that liability...we might get our pants sued off... ;) ::-)
 
Just so y'guys know, the temps inside the Kuuma plenum are all over the place, depending on where you measure. I currently have a probe centered on the front of the plenum, about 4" up from the bonnet, and about 1 1/2" into the air stream. I get temps there ranging from 220 just before the fan kicks on, to 140 when the fan is continuously running. That's using a fan control, located in this general area. If you were using the stock, slow to respond, snap switch (is anybody doing that?), you'd probably see a lot hotter temps for a while before the fan activates. The air that comes out of the front cover and the angled tubes is hot. If you're putting a link on the front side, particularly low, you might want to check your temps before you settle on a link temp to avoid nuisance trips.

Just hoping to maybe save you a little aggravation.
 
It may not be pretty, but a dedicated opening close to the plenum within the living space feom the main trunk would be ideal. Power goes, trap opens into floor above and gravity takes hold. Our previous furnace during an outage would get so hot, water droplets would dance on the surface of the ductwork above it. Nothing that I would ever wish on anyone! But 6 cubic feet of firebox burning white hot during an outage was a fire waiting to happen.
That you could make of parts you can buy today. A normal (large) register on the floor above, with an upward duct controlled by a normally open electric duct damper. Power goes off, damper opens.

Not quite as good as a dump controlled by a fusible though, that would work even if, say, the power stayed on, but the blower failed.
 
This is a off the wall question? How much would a 1000 gallons of oil be in contrast to about 6 cords of oak wood? These boilers work on wood and I am just curious about the pricing and would not oil be easier to use instead of having to load this thing up once a day which by the way is "great" compared to some of the other wood appliances...I read some of this thread and I got very concerned about the safety of these things knowing not much about them..and just wanted to compare these two prices to really see what we are talking about..clancey
 
This is a off the wall question? How much would a 1000 gallons of oil be in contrast to about 6 cords of oak wood? These boilers work on wood and I am just curious about the pricing and would not oil be easier to use instead of having to load this thing up once a day which by the way is "great" compared to some of the other wood appliances...I read some of this thread and I got very concerned about the safety of these things knowing not much about them..and just wanted to compare these two prices to really see what we are talking about..clancey
These are not boilers, they are forced hot air furnaces fired by wood...and computer controlled, so they pretty much can't make creosote, so very safe...safer than most manually run stoves IMO.
And depends on the price of the Oak and the oil at the time...but for the most part I think most of us have access to plenty of "free" wood...just our labor to turn it into firewood.
 
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All right thank you...By what little I read they seem to be very efficient and less work loading a lot of work daily..plus environmentally better because they have less pollution for the air and they get good rebates or tax deductions as well..thanks clancey
 
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