Papa Bear Restoration

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It’s neat that it’s a transition stove and can be dated exact even without a tag. I have a prototype, an old style, and a new style, but not a transition stove in the Grandpa model. So a good one like yours with all those features is very appealing for the collection.

The rear plate should have been one piece. All Nighters were built like that with a seam up the back. One requirement of Fisher quality control was no visible welds outside, other than under the top around edges.
 
I've been wire brushing the Grandma bear to get the rust out. The paint heats up and really smears alot. I'm tempted to sand blast it but don't want to make the surface rough. The sides and back maybe. But not the top. The tops on all my fishers have a very smooth finish.
Any suggestions on what grit for final sanding? I'm going to start another thread on the Grandma Bear. The Papa is on the back burner for a while. I want to get the Grandma done before Christmas.
 
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It's been a while since I posted. The wife thinks I have a Fisher addiction. I purchased a Mama Bear yesterday in near perfect condition. Back Vent. The box is a bit rough on the texture. No rust well taken care of. Looks like it was never overfired. I'm looking to restore it to pristine condition.

First what abrasive is safe to blast it. Soda, Sand, Glass bead, Corn cob, Walnut. Black onyx??? This would be for the fire box. I'm trying for a smooth finish. So I don't want to pit or rough it up.

Second what is safe for the doors. I want to try and expose the original Nickle if it is there. If it isn't I will consider re-plating it. I have a pressurized blaster and a cabinet so I am able to be versatile on the media.

I hopefully will be picking up a Grandpa bear later today if all goes well. This one is well used but from what I can tell by pics it's not damaged and will also need a full restoration. This brings me up to 5 Stoves 2 Grandpa Bears. 2 Mama Bears. One Grandma Bear. The Grandma bear was a purchase the wife made. And she say's Im addicted .. Ya right. That one is real rough. Someone decided to make it a top vent when it's a back vent. I would call that stove abuse. It has a crack on the back wall. I'm still deciding what to do to it. It will never be pristine. But with a bit of love it could be made safe to use.
if you want it original we sandblasted every stove. We used a body file on the tops to smooth them and lightly hit the sides with the sander.
 
if you want it original we sandblasted every stove. We used a body file on the tops to smooth them and lightly hit the sides with the sander.
Did you use sand, onyx, corn, Glass bead? , Would my DA make it smooth? And what grit do you suggest? If I use a blaster on the doors what media would you suggest? Dampeners as well? I was thinking soda. But it's very time consuming. I've been wire brushing the box and got most of the rust out. There wasn't very much. But I want it gone. I'm not in the mood to set up my other blaster and booth, space is a issue. But if I have to o'h well.
 
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Did you use sand, onyx, corn, Glass bead? , Would my DA make it smooth? And what grit do you suggest? If I use a blaster on the doors what media would you suggest? Dampeners as well? I was thinking soda. But it's very time consuming. I've been wire brushing the box and got most of the rust out. There wasn't very much. But I want it gone. I'm not in the mood to set up my other blaster and booth, space is a issue. But if I have to o'h well.
we used medium sand on the stove body, then we added the doors and dampers. I would not blast the dampers since they were generally cast aluminum the Body file is just a long vibrator sander. The only thing that was not blasted was nickel or brass doors and dampers. Find someone in your area that blasts and take it to them. it is a 10-15 minute job.
 
I just acquired a Papa Bear in good condition but one of the hinge pins is missing. Where can I get the pins for the hinge on a Papa Bear door?

Thank you

Ariel
They are solid 3/8 diameter rivets.

Since you can only buy them in bulk, they are very easy to make.

Using a 3/8 bolt with an unthreaded shank long enough under head, grind off hex head points with bench grinder to make head round. Then Chuck the threaded end in a drill, running slowly in reverse, from rounded head with running bench grinder while rotating bolt. Cut off threads, and you have a hinge pin.

If you do not have access to those tools, they come up for sale on eBay in pairs and sets for double doors. Measure your rivet length since the hinge ears require different lengths on the flat top doors compared to Cathedral arched top.

If you don’t mind a hex head, simply shorten a 3/8 bolt by cutting the threads off. Keep pins lubricated with high temperature grease, or silver anti-seize!

Also lubricate the air intake damper threads to prevent wear of the moving parts.