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That VZ baro isn't worth the box it comes in!
Get a Field baro...only $5 more from SH...
I have a VZ baro ( Menards Special :) )and it seems to work fine. My setup is pretty simple though, out of the stove and up. But I do agree for the $5 more the field baro looks to better built.
 
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I have a VZ baro ( Menards Special :) )and it seems to work fine. My setup is pretty simple though, out of the stove and up. But I do agree for the $5 more the field baro looks to better built.
After using a Field baro, the VZ baro is like
1607695418478.png
compared to
1607695488551.png
;) ;lol
 
Do you think the gears should be lubed annually? I have not pulled the damper motor - but the replacement is supposed to arrive today and I will open up the old one up.

Not sure - it seems like just messing with it could be detrimental. Perhaps a light lube that won't attract dust build up would be ok.
 
That VZ baro isn't worth the box it comes in!
Get a Field baro...only $5 more from SH...
I certainly don't disagree with you. The VZ is simple. Probably works decent as long as you keep it clean. I'm sure there are better baros.

Do you have pictures of the Field baro installed? I guess I'm not 100% clear how you install it. Do you supply your own tee and install it in that?
 
I certainly don't disagree with you. The VZ is simple. Probably works decent as long as you keep it clean. I'm sure there are better baros.

Do you have pictures of the Field baro installed? I guess I'm not 100% clear how you install it. Do you supply your own tee and install it in that?
It does not come with a tee...but it is made to install into one, or it some with a collar that can be used to install it directly on 6" singlewall pipe after you cut a hole in it...the directions tell you how.
 
Here is what the internals of the Honeywell damper motor looks like. I tore mine apart after installing the replacement and never figured out what exactly caused it to fail. It was difficult to disassemble without damaging. I wouldn't recommend messing with it.

20201211_085202.jpg
 

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It does not come with a tee...but it is made to install into one, or it some with a collar that can be used to install it directly on 6" singlewall pipe after you cut a hole in it...the directions tell you how.
I saw that it comes with a collar, but the collar looks to be galvanized - and I thought that was a no-no on stove pipe installs?
 
I saw that it comes with a collar, but the collar looks to be galvanized - and I thought that was a no-no on stove pipe installs?
The collar is out from the tee. There's a little flow around the baro to keep it cool. I've had both types and I agree the fields is hands down superior and very accurate. I recently installed a field and it keeps clean unlike the other.
 
The collar is out from the tee. There's a little flow around the baro to keep it cool. I've had both types and I agree the fields is hands down superior and very accurate. I recently installed a field and it keeps clean unlike the other.
This ^ ^ ^
I've installed them both ways...in a tee and using their collar...both fine.
 
I'll order one.. as I need to get a baro installed and increase my burntime. So I just need a standard 6" stove tee to install it?
 
I'll order one.. as I need to get a baro installed and increase my burntime. So I just need a standard 6" stove tee to install it?
Yup, a standard tee (male bottom, female top and side) will work fine.
 
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So I had a little time this morning and a good burn going. Starting testing static pressure in the plenum. Found out it was only at around .1. To get to the recommended .2 all 6 of my dampers needed to be closed almost 3/4 of the way. Is this normal to you guys? Kinda worried about gravity dumping heat with them closed that much during a power outage. Maybe its just the way my heating ducts are laid out?
 
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So I had a little time this morning and a good burn going. Starting testing static pressure in the plenum. Found out it was only at around .1. To get to the recommended .2 all 6 of my dampers needed to be closed almost 3/4 of the way. Is this normal to you guys? Kinda worried about gravity dumping heat with them closed that much during a power outage. Maybe its just the way my heating ducts are laid out?
Was it heating the house OK? If so, leave it the way it was...chasing .2" SP is a snipe hunt with the duct system in many houses...and yes, I'd worry about the gravity heating like that too...
 
Was it heating the house OK? If so, leave it the way it was...chasing .2" SP is a snipe hunt with the duct system in many houses...and yes, I'd worry about the gravity heating like that too...

Kinda just messing around to see if there is any difference in heat output to my registers. So, yes, it was heating my house ok, just seeing if its any better after putting static pressure to manufacture specs.

I think I'll open them little, maybe aim between .15 and. 175 and just see if there any noticeable difference.
 
Received and installed the Field draft control. I don't know that it is that much better/nicer than the VZ. I don't like that it has a giant gap even when closed - I have some smoke/ash spillage again when raking coals and reloading. The VZ has a small gap, maybe a uniform 1/16" gap. The FC gap is closer to 3/16"-1/4" and not uniform.

It does reduce my peak draft down to the .08" WC like I hoped. But also reduces my minimum draft due to the gap. Curious if this is what you guys are seeing also?

I'm tempted to make/add a lip so that it closes off better.
 

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Received and installed the Field draft control. I don't know that it is that much better/nicer than the VZ. I don't like that it has a giant gap even when closed - I have some smoke/ash spillage again when raking coals and reloading.

I'm tempted to make/add a lip so that it closes off better.

In my own experience with the Fields baro, I don't find the gap to have a meaningful or impactful influence on my minimum draft. Even without a fire (i.e., a cold furnace), I see -.02 to -.03" W.C. draft (with the Fields installed) thanks to 2/3 of our 32' chimney being inside the heated envelope of our house.

My Vogelzang baro constantly got stuck (both open and closed) because of the tighter tollerances, while my Fields has worked flawlessly for going on 10 years.

A Fields baro warning, though - the draft markings for the counter weight are very (very!) approximate. I'm currently pulling -0.05" W.C. with the counter weight backed off almost to the -0.02" mark. (Using the correct side for my orientation and with the baro level and plumb).
 
Received and installed the Field draft control. I don't know that it is that much better/nicer than the VZ. I don't like that it has a giant gap even when closed - I have some smoke/ash spillage again when raking coals and reloading. The VZ has a small gap, maybe a uniform 1/16" gap. The FC gap is closer to 3/16"-1/4" and not uniform.
Can't say that I'm too impressed with the build quality of your damper. My VZ damper has a consistent 1/32" ( if that ) gap around the whole damper.

@brenndatomu - I thought the Field damper was the iPhone 12 of barometric dampers ? Based off of the picture that @TDD11 posted, the build quality looks like the Motorola click to talk phone I had in the late 90's ;lol;lol;lol;lol;lol
 
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Can't say that I'm too impressed with the build quality of your damper. My VZ damper has a consistent 1/32" ( if that ) gap around the whole damper.

@brenndatomu - I thought the Field damper was the iPhone 12 of barometric dampers ? Based off of the picture that @TDD11 posted, the build quality looks like the Motorola click to talk phone I had in the late 90's ;lol;lol;lol;lol;lol


If it were the iPhone version it would ONLY connect to an Apple flue pipe, Apple stove and it would have a cracked glass door!
 
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If it were the iPhone version it would ONLY connect to an Apple flue pipe, Apple stove and it would have a cracked glass door!
I was referring to the picture of the phone ( iPhone ) that he posted previously ( Post #3302 ) when we he was comparing a VZ to a Field baro. I'm not interested in turning this thread into a phone debate.
 
Received and installed the Field draft control. I don't know that it is that much better/nicer than the VZ. I don't like that it has a giant gap even when closed - I have some smoke/ash spillage again when raking coals and reloading. The VZ has a small gap, maybe a uniform 1/16" gap. The FC gap is closer to 3/16"-1/4" and not uniform.

It does reduce my peak draft down to the .08" WC like I hoped. But also reduces my minimum draft due to the gap. Curious if this is what you guys are seeing also?

I'm tempted to make/add a lip so that it closes off better.
I'm not sure if it is the way the picture was taken or what, but that appears to be a larger gap than I have...but still isn't enough of a leak to make you lose a noticeable amount of draft...unless your chimney is super marginal...what are the chimney specs again?
Why are you running your draft so high? -0.04 to -0.06" is what is spec'ed.
Can't say that I'm too impressed with the build quality of your damper. My VZ damper has a consistent 1/32" ( if that ) gap around the whole damper.
I dunno...maybe VZ makes different models...the one I looked at in the store looked like it was made from a Bushes Beans can...spray painted black and a hinge tack welded onto the "flapper"...no adjustment of any kind, didn't operate smoothly...I couldn't get it back into the box fast enough.

And just so y'all are aware, those Field dampers need to be dead nuts level or the flapper will always work its way to the low side and could hang up...if level they are buttery smooth.
 
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The factory markings on my FC damper are almost dead accurate. I have a much shorter chimney however (21' all exterior.) From my own experience I couldn't get my vogelzang to do anything other than stay shut or flop open. It's on my scrap pile if someone wants it. It would have made a good match for a Shelter furnace! LOL!
 
I dunno...maybe VZ makes different models...the one I looked at in the store looked like it was made from a Bushes Beans can...spray painted black and a hinge tack welded onto the "flapper"...no adjustment of any kind, didn't operate smoothly...I couldn't get it back into the box fast enough.

I think they sell multiple versions
  • Link to the damper that Menards currently sells.
  • Link to the damper that I have. Coincidentally, I bought it as Menards about 8 or so years ago.
 
I think they sell multiple versions
  • Link to the damper that Menards currently sells.
  • Link to the damper that I have. Coincidentally, I bought it as Menards about 8 or so years ago.
The one you have is the same one I bought at Menards recently. I'm glad yours works for you. Wish I could say the same. I'm quite happy with the fields version now.
 
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I should add that I've got nothing against Vogelzang as a company. I owned one of their small stoves for almost 8 years. It was decent quality for the (very low) price.