Replaced door gasket on stove now I can barely close the door!

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I got some little dremmel wire brushes to put on my drill to try to grind this old dried gasket cement out and will start that now. Most of the stove shops are closed today but one guy that is open tomorrow did answer anyway, told him my story and he said he is familiar with Dovre stoves (so he says) and that he thinks it should be 3/8" gasket if 3/4" gasket was too thick, but I told him the manual online says 3/4" and that's what I used years ago. But I measured the channel and it is 3/8", so what does that mean now? But he did say that he had different densities and I should call him tomorrow and he can tell me what he has.

I want this done correctly and over with, hearing the oil burner go on and off is making me crazy!:mad: <>
 
I wore out 4 little dremmel wire brushes cleaning out this channel of the old gasket material, it looks good enough that it should work fine, now I just have to get the correct size and density gasket to glue in. I looked at some bagged Rutland gasket kits at Ace hardware and the ones they had were so much less rigid than what I had, it was black gasket material and "squishy", mine was white and very thick, thick enough to hang yourself lol! I also put the gasket that I had in the track on the hinge side where it was sticking, and it made no difference, no way could I close the door, so I don't know what I had there, it measures 3/4" across and the online manual for the Dovre Aurora 700 says it takes 3/4", but I don't know now. I either can take the door off and take it to the stove shop if that would help determine the correct size, or I'm thinking I could buy a foot of a few sizes and densities, dry fit it in that hinge corner like I did with this thick one and see if it will close on that corner, if it does I should be good to go, does that sound like a good idea? I'd hate to glue one in and it still doesn't close, I'll lose my mind....

Thank you
 
I wore out 4 little dremmel wire brushes cleaning out this channel of the old gasket material,
I think I have read here that a wire wheel on a angle grinder works pretty well for cleaning those up.
I'm thinking I could buy a foot of a few sizes and densities, dry fit it in that hinge corner like I did with this thick one and see if it will close on that corner, if it does I should be good to go, does that sound like a good idea?
I was just gonna suggest the same thing...
 
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Assuming the stove store sells off a reel, buy a foot of your 2-3 best guess and dry fit from the hinge side.
 
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Assuming the stove store sells off a reel, buy a foot of your 2-3 best guess and dry fit from the hinge side.
Yes that's what I'm thinking. I have the door pulled out as loose as it can go, so if it fits that it'll be able to be tightened up after it is on for awhile. I would think just getting it on there and closing the door and letting it dry for hours THEN adjusting the hinge and latch to make sure it is a good tight fit sounds like the way to go, rather than put it on and try to adjust it immediately?
 
I think I have read here that a wire wheel on a angle grinder works pretty well for cleaning those up.

These were little miniature wire wheels that I put on my drill, they weren't too strong but that was better than the grinding wheel they had, the salesperson thought that might take too much off at once so I figured I'd do the "slow and steady" routine rather than make a stupid mistake lol!
 
I just did the same thing yesterday. First time I've replaced the door gasket on my stove. Now it closes pretty hard. It seals well, but I believe the correct gasket is supposed to be flatter. The dog felt the need to try to pull my old rope gasket out... so I figured it was time to replace mine anyway since it was falling out and who knows when the last time it was changed... My stove is from 2001, and I'm unsure of the dealer where it was purchased since it came with the house I bought two years ago, but I'm going to contact a local dealer tomorrow and see if they can recommend the proper gasket.

I've gotten very comfortable running the stove, but with this gasket being so stiff and the door being hard to latch, It doesn't put my mind at ease. I don't want to have added stress to the door/hinge, but It'll get me through until I can get the proper gasket. In hindsight, I guess I should have placed a couple of dabs of gasket cement on the existing rope and called it good, but I didn't know that thicknesses and widths varied as much as they do...
 
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I just did the same thing yesterday. First time I've replaced the door gasket on my stove. Now it closes pretty hard. It seals well, but I believe the correct gasket is supposed to be flatter. The dog felt the need to try to pull my old rope gasket out... so I figured it was time to replace mine anyway since it was falling out and who knows when the last time it was changed... My stove is from 2001, and I'm unsure of the dealer where it was purchased since it came with the house I bought two years ago, but I'm going to contact a local dealer tomorrow and see if they can recommend the proper gasket.

I've gotten very comfortable running the stove, but with this gasket being so stiff and the door being hard to latch, It doesn't put my mind at ease. I don't want to have added stress to the door/hinge, but It'll get me through until I can get the proper gasket. In hindsight, I guess I should have placed a couple of dabs of gasket cement on the existing rope and called it good, but I didn't know that thicknesses and widths varied as much as they do...
Yes I didn't know that they came in different "densities" either until now thanks to the guys on here! I went to a local stove shop this morning, not many are open today, and this guy cut me a section of 3/4" "medium" gasket so I could try it on the hinge area, the part that the old gasket got stuck on, and it does close but it is pretty tight yet, and I have the door and latch adjusted as open as it can be, so I don't know if I should give it a try or wait and see if I can get a trial section of 3/4" soft and see how that works. This guy said "you can stretch the gasket if need be" but I read others saying NOT to do that, so I don't know what to do now. I know it will compress with time, but if it is still too thick and low is what is needed part of me wants to wait until my other local stove shop is open tomorrow and see if they have 3/4" soft, if they do I could buy a foot of it and test it, if they don't I could call around and see if someone else has it or just go with the 3/4" medium and hope for the best, not exactly what I want to do but I have to make a decision fast as this place closes at 3 and aren't open until Tuesday.

Ugh.....
 
Stopped at Home Depot on the way home just now and looked at the Rutland pre packed gasket packages, one was open so I could get my hands on it and it surely felt like a bit softer than what I had just had which was hard and medium thickness, but I want to wait until the local stove shop is open tomorrow and see what they have. And this way I can always call Rutland and ask them what density that one is, someone there should know. But I "resisted" buying it just so I could "do it", figured that I made it this far just wait another day so you don't make a very regretful decision.

But listening to the oil burner runs makes me cringe lol!!

THANKS for the help, I guess I learned something these last few days about gasket material!
 
Rutland gaskets are low density.
 
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Yes I didn't know that they came in different "densities" either until now thanks to the guys on here! I went to a local stove shop this morning, not many are open today, and this guy cut me a section of 3/4" "medium" gasket so I could try it on the hinge area, the part that the old gasket got stuck on, and it does close but it is pretty tight yet, and I have the door and latch adjusted as open as it can be, so I don't know if I should give it a try or wait and see if I can get a trial section of 3/4" soft and see how that works. This guy said "you can stretch the gasket if need be" but I read others saying NOT to do that, so I don't know what to do now. I know it will compress with time, but if it is still too thick and low is what is needed part of me wants to wait until my other local stove shop is open tomorrow and see if they have 3/4" soft, if they do I could buy a foot of it and test it, if they don't I could call around and see if someone else has it or just go with the 3/4" medium and hope for the best, not exactly what I want to do but I have to make a decision fast as this place closes at 3 and aren't open until Tuesday.

Ugh.....

I don't have much for stove retailers around my area, so the nearest Pacific Energy dealer is about 45 minutes away. I plan on calling them tomorrow but I'd be surprised if they're familiar with my model stove, let alone parts. I contacted PE directly and they referred me to this particular dealer.

I went with this Rutland gasket because it's literally the only 3/4" gasket I found in my town after searching everywhere.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rutland-3-4-in-x-7-ft-Grapho-Glas-Replacement-Gasket-Kit-99-6/202218169

I figured if it didn't work, I could throw the old one back in and I'd only be out $12... I also stretched it to try to thin it out (recommendation I found on one of the Hearth forums), but it didn't help. Of course, we wait to do this maintenance during wood burning season and run into problems! And truthfully, if my dog hadn't have tried to pull mine out, I wouldn't have done anything to it!
 
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There is a major difference between the OEM PE door gasket and the Rutland. I tried the Rutland and it was leaky. Too soft. Then I tried the Meeco Gold and it was much too firm. Leaked like a sieve and was dangerous to run the stove. Finally I put in the OEM gasket and just like Goldilocks it was just right.

Your insert should be a Summit A model. They should have the gasket in stock. Just make sure they sell you the OEM gasket. Part# 80000158, (DR46.DGKIT). It's light and can be sent by mail.
 
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Rutland gaskets are low density.
Okay thanks, I think that is what I need. This medium one was better than the thick one I had put in, and I know it will compress with time, but the door still was tough to close, I just didn't like the feeling I had about that so I will try a low density one. I can always change it out if needed down the line, and regardless anything will be better than the old one that I had "patched" up over the years lol!

Thank you
 
Hope that works out. Keep us posted.
 
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I don't have much for stove retailers around my area, so the nearest Pacific Energy dealer is about 45 minutes away. I plan on calling them tomorrow but I'd be surprised if they're familiar with my model stove, let alone parts. I contacted PE directly and they referred me to this particular dealer.

I went with this Rutland gasket because it's literally the only 3/4" gasket I found in my town after searching everywhere.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rutland-3-4-in-x-7-ft-Grapho-Glas-Replacement-Gasket-Kit-99-6/202218169

I figured if it didn't work, I could throw the old one back in and I'd only be out $12... I also stretched it to try to thin it out (recommendation I found on one of the Hearth forums), but it didn't help. Of course, we wait to do this maintenance during wood burning season and run into problems! And truthfully, if my dog hadn't have tried to pull mine out, I wouldn't have done anything to it!
Yes that's what I saw at Home Depot yesterday, but I am going to go into the stove shop in town today to see and FEEL what they have off the spool, but I already tried real thick gasket and medium gasket and I think the soft is what will be needed here, they should have soft that I can buy a 1' section of and dry fit it in the hinge side like I did the medium one yesterday, then if that works out okay buy 6' of it and glue it in; if they don't have 3/4" soft then I'll but the Home Depot one. The guy yesterday at the other place said he has it on order, due in later this week but I don't want to wait that long, this is really bugging me now and yes you are correct, this is NOT the time to be playing around with this stuff and I thought me and the wife were heading for divorce court, she was SO angry that I decided to tackle this the day before Christmas but I keep telling her that I didn't anticipate any problems, I figured the gasket was the right size and thickness and I put it on nicely and it should've been done, we should've been using the stove the last few days but God knows why they gave me the wrong sized gasket years ago, I just assumed it was correct but obviously it wasn't, so this was a learning experience and I'll know going forward about it!

And if the stove shops wouldn't been closed the day after Christmas this would've been done already too, but that's how it goes! I thought I could get away with patching pieces of gasket on to the old gasket but that trick ran it's course, too many gaps and smoke smell on start up so I knew it had to be replaced, just didn't anticipate a boatload of problems like this!
 
I also was wondering if once I glue the CORRECT size gasket on should I just close the door even if it is loose, let it dry, then hours later do the dollar bill test and make adjustments to the door if needed, or should I try to adjust it right away? I'm thinking to just let the gasket dry and then later adjust it if needed, is that what you guys would do?
 
I don't have an opinion on what you should do next. I'm just happy to hear that I'm not alone in tackling "easy" projects that should only take a "short" time and have them turn into neither!
Yes, this should've been MUCH easier than it was, I learned a hard lesson but at least I learned! ;lol :confused:
 
You are correct. The manual calls for a 3/4" door gasket, Dovre part #18589. This is the same as the Dovre 400. Here is the kit, from the UK.
 
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Yes that's what I saw at Home Depot yesterday, but I am going to go into the stove shop in town today to see and FEEL what they have off the spool, but I already tried real thick gasket and medium gasket and I think the soft is what will be needed here, they should have soft that I can buy a 1' section of and dry fit it in the hinge side like I did the medium one yesterday, then if that works out okay buy 6' of it and glue it in; if they don't have 3/4" soft then I'll but the Home Depot one. The guy yesterday at the other place said he has it on order, due in later this week but I don't want to wait that long, this is really bugging me now and yes you are correct, this is NOT the time to be playing around with this stuff and I thought me and the wife were heading for divorce court, she was SO angry that I decided to tackle this the day before Christmas but I keep telling her that I didn't anticipate any problems, I figured the gasket was the right size and thickness and I put it on nicely and it should've been done, we should've been using the stove the last few days but God knows why they gave me the wrong sized gasket years ago, I just assumed it was correct but obviously it wasn't, so this was a learning experience and I'll know going forward about it!

And if the stove shops wouldn't been closed the day after Christmas this would've been done already too, but that's how it goes! I thought I could get away with patching pieces of gasket on to the old gasket but that trick ran it's course, too many gaps and smoke smell on start up so I knew it had to be replaced, just didn't anticipate a boatload of problems like this!


Let us know how you make out. I got ahold of my local dealer today and he says he reached out to my stove manufacturer and obtained a part #. He happens to have one of these proper gaskets in stock, so later this week, I'll make the long drive to pick it up. I measured 3/4" on my door, but the manual and the dealer both say its 7/8"... so, I'm anxious to see how it will fit. I'll bring the original gasket just for the hell of it to see if the new one is close. And of course, sinces it's OEM, it's over 3X the price of the Rutland one, but if it's right, I'll be happy. If it's wrong, I'll be out the cost of 2 gaskets and cement.
 
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Let us know how you make out. I got ahold of my local dealer today and he says he reached out to my stove manufacturer and obtained a part #. He happens to have one of these proper gaskets in stock, so later this week, I'll make the long drive to pick it up. I measured 3/4" on my door, but the manual and the dealer both say its 7/8"... so, I'm anxious to see how it will fit. I'll bring the original gasket just for the hell of it to see if the new one is close. And of course, sinces it's OEM, it's over 3X the price of the Rutland one, but if it's right, I'll be happy. If it's wrong, I'll be out the cost of 2 gaskets and cement.
Good luck with it, I hope it works out.

I'm going to talk to a guy at another stove shop that I am told "knows somethings about Dovre stoves", we'll see. But the proof to me is in the "testing" I have been doing by using 1' sections of gasket and closing the door with them in the hinge area, and all of the "correct" size 3/4" are way too tight, 5/8" was better and still seemed to cover the channel track so I guess I'll go with that, I do not feel comfortable putting in 3/4" and having to force the door shut, not at all. But I need it to be sealed enough though too.
 
I think that this "mystery" is finally solved, please read post on the thread "is it okay to put one size smaller gasket on" or whatever I said lol!!!
 
I think that this "mystery" is finally solved, please read post on the thread "is it okay to put one size smaller gasket on" or whatever I said lol!!!
So what's the verdict? Did you try a smaller diameter gasket and it worked out? Did I read something saying you accidentally placed it on the stove incorrectly? My local dealer has two gaskets on hand that he's set aside for me in hopes that they're correct. I'm doing to bring the original one with me to see if it's close.

I wondered today about trying a smaller gasket and seeing if it would compress to the desired width...
 
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Given the rareness of this stove it would be great to see a picture of the area of concern that shows both the gasket and the mating surface on the stove. It might be helpful to others for future reference.
 
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