Looking for advice to swap wood burner to pellet

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slytek

New Member
Jan 26, 2021
5
USA
Hello Everyone!
I got this small tool shed/small barn that has existing Vermont Casting parlor stove, model is Vigilant. It works ok, doors don't shut all the way, needs door gasket, maybe alignment and who knows what else so I decided to just swap it out for pellet stove instead. This is all new to me but I'm semi handy and I think i know what I want. :)
Piping here is 8" black pipe, I'm assuming I can just take the whole thing down (whole thing is assembled from 24" pieces) and put some kind of adapter at the top (ceiling black square looking thing) to convert to 4" or 3" that pellet stove takes? Can i just use flex pipe of some sort to go from ceiling to new stove? Tractor supply sells lots of pellet stoves but was looking to get what will pretty much be easiest swap. I see all are side vented so i know i need a adapter and then a clean out T, but pretty much stuck at what do to from clean out T and up.
If someone knows a pellet unit that has 3 wire thermostat hook up so i can add WIFI thermostat to it that would be wonderful. Attached are pictures of what i have now, hopefully this will help figuring out what i need exactly as far as piping. I can connect OAK no problem straight out to outside wall, that part i understand.
Name of the parts i need would be very useful and/or links to them.
Thank you so much and i sure glad i found this forum!
Sly

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You MUST run type "L" pellet vent from the stove to the chimney.
At that point, you need a 3" to 8" pellet-to-class A adapter. From
there up, you should run flex liner to the cap. Depending on the
total length of the venting, you may need to increase from 3 to 4",
in which case you'd need a 4" to 8" pellet-to-class A adapter. Either
way, I would run your pellet vent to the cap. It'll be easier to clean
than if you went from pellet to Class A & stopped.

Here's an example of Duravent's 3" adapter:

 
You MUST run type "L" pellet vent from the stove to the chimney.
At that point, you need a 3" to 8" pellet-to-class A adapter. From
there up, you should run flex liner to the cap. Depending on the
total length of the venting, you may need to increase from 3 to 4",
in which case you'd need a 4" to 8" pellet-to-class A adapter. Either
way, I would run your pellet vent to the cap. It'll be easier to clean
than if you went from pellet to Class A & stopped.

Here's an example of Duravent's 3" adapter:


Ok I now understand type "L" from stove to chimney adapter and I think I will just go with 4" pipe from stove rather than 3".
so I'm thinking i need 4 main parts here:
6" Pipe , 3" to 4" Adapter, Tee, 4" to 8" Adapter I could keep 3" all way up, what would be the safe pipe length to keep it at 3" or is it better to go 4" , it wont hurt anything?
Does this look about right for what I'm trying to do?

The only thing I don't understand is why I need flex up to the cap from 8" part on the ceiling and up? Its just for easier cleaning only? Its just this step I wont be able to do my self, at least i don't think I will be able to. It will be used very little, maybe total of 15 days per winter season, about 8 hours per day.

Thank you for all your help!
 
Rule of thumb is any pellet vent run in excess of 15 feet should be increased from 3 to 4 inch.
Depending on the stove you choose, you may need to start with a stove adapter right off the back.
Then either a short length to a tee or the tee directly on the adapter. Then what ever length of pipe
will get you to the Class A adapter. You will have to decide where in the run you want to increase
your vent to 4" - IF you need to do so. The flex will be cheaper than the rigid vent & the Class A will
eliminate the need for type "L" vent...
 
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Ok I now understand type "L" from stove to chimney adapter and I think I will just go with 4" pipe from stove rather than 3".
so I'm thinking i need 4 main parts here:
6" Pipe , 3" to 4" Adapter, Tee, 4" to 8" Adapter I could keep 3" all way up, what would be the safe pipe length to keep it at 3" or is it better to go 4" , it wont hurt anything?
Does this look about right for what I'm trying to do?

The only thing I don't understand is why I need flex up to the cap from 8" part on the ceiling and up? Its just for easier cleaning only? Its just this step I wont be able to do my self, at least i don't think I will be able to. It will be used very little, maybe total of 15 days per winter season, about 8 hours per day.

Thank you for all your help!
How far is it from the floor to the adapter box at the ceiling?
 
Rule of thumb is any pellet vent run in excess of 15 feet should be increased from 3 to 4 inch.
Depending on the stove you choose, you may need to start with a stove adapter right off the back.
Then either a short length to a tee or the tee directly on the adapter. Then what ever length of pipe
will get you to the Class A adapter. You will have to decide where in the run you want to increase
your vent to 4" - IF you need to do so. The flex will be cheaper than the rigid vent & the Class A will
eliminate the need for type "L" vent...
Are you suggesting i can just go flex from stove directly or from tee? This will make it so much easier if I can do that directly to 8" to 3" reducer up on the ceiling. Can you link what flex i need to get for this please? Im assuming its just normal SS chimney liner, it just wont be in the actual chimney. That or I'm understanding this wrong. Thank you.
 
9' from where stove tee would be. I don't believe I will be exceeding 15' rise to cap so 3" is what i should go with?
You can go with three inch under 15 foot. You CAN NOT use flex pipe from the back of the stove to the chimney adapter. Give me an exact measurement from the stove flue to the adapter and I can tell you what you need.
 
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You can go with three inch under 15 foot. You CAN NOT use flex pipe from the back of the stove to the chimney adapter. Give me an exact measurement from the stove flue to the adapter and I can tell you what you need.
Its exactly 9 feet from 3" exhaust outlet on the back of the stove to the black square adapter up on the ceiling, this is where 3" will turn into 8".