Hey everyone. Newbie here. I set up an old coal burning stove in my woodshop last weekend. I framed all the walls w metalstud, did everything up to code, got the right chimney pipe and set up. However, the firplace smoked like crazy, like i literally had to put the fire out. The first burn went really smooth, then subsequently worse and worse. I read up a bit on the coal stove, and was able to take out all the grates and parts associated with burning coal, and hopefully just have a fire box. I started a small fire yesterday and smoked myself out again. I am wondering if there is an air layout difference in the stove types that i can change? Am i not getting the flue hot enough fast enough to draw properly? should i just abandon ship? I also just noticed dripping water coming from my clean out, I am new to all this, and can be an idiot, any help or advice is welcome. Thank you
Coal Stove Into Wood Stove Help
- Thread starter chefpatrick
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Ok what is the material the pipe goes through at the roof? Why does it look like you go from chimney pipe to black pipe to something like bvent?
Ok so I go from a black t to triple insulated stove pipe to a black expander couple to triple insulated chimney pipe.... I left a 2 inch larger hole around the chimney pipe and stuck it through a stop sign. I don't know if insulated going into non insulated is causing all these problems. Just noticed some liquid creosote on the t where the stove pipe meets the stove. Great
Attachments
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
By any chance its this all the same size flue or is it pieced together with different sizes?
I'm not a pro installer but I'm questioning a lot here, first is clearances to combustibles, the stove might be a little to close to your wood rack, also the chimney going threw the roof, that connection has me suspect since it looks like a single wall adapter (which would require 18" to combustibles, then the actual connection to the other (assuming) class a pipe has me scratching my head a little. I'm not trying to be a jerk, just dont want to see you burn down your shop.
I'm not a pro installer but I'm questioning a lot here, first is clearances to combustibles, the stove might be a little to close to your wood rack, also the chimney going threw the roof, that connection has me suspect since it looks like a single wall adapter (which would require 18" to combustibles, then the actual connection to the other (assuming) class a pipe has me scratching my head a little. I'm not trying to be a jerk, just dont want to see you burn down your shop.
Is that all the same size pipe? How did you make all of those connections between black and chimney pipe? Why are you using chimney pipe in the middle?
Thanks for helping out man! It's all the same size inside diameter flue, six inch. I got that weird super insulated chimney pipe because I wanted to keep the stove closer to the wall, but you are right about the connections being just non insulated chimney pipe. It was all I could find, and had already spent so much before I got it up and running I didn't want to spend anymore cash, especially because I wasn't sure it would even work....
It doesn't look like super insulated pipe it looks like triple wall with half the insulation and an air space. My guess is that you have air leakage at those makeshift transitions. And your stove is probably to close and the Transition black pipe price certainly is. Also is that spray foam I see peeking out beside the chimney pipe?
Yes you are right it is the triple wall insulation. And I used that spray fire block to fill in the 2 inch gap I had to leave around the chimney pipe. I was waiting on my flashing and chimney collar in the mail. Do you think that if I took apart the transitions and really mastick the hell out them it will help? I don't wanna trash that stove but if it's just a smoker I'll look for a proper wood stove.
Ok you need to dig that spray foam out of there it is very flammable. You should get rid of everything from the roof down and install proper connector pipe that will fit together properly. What is supporting the chimney btw?
That's the support on the roof.... The chimney comes down and terminates at that tee on the back of the stove, the whole thing is really solid. I had no idea that foam was flammable, it says it's specifically made for fire stop. Damn man. So start looking for all the connections that meet up with that triple wall I bought? I'd rather not start totally over from scratch. My wife already is ready to kill me over this stove
Im also really a little sketched about it being a coal burner, I don't want to waste time and money on something that's not really gonna work. Should have done my research .... Thanks for the pointers man, these forums are great
That is a roof stabilizer not support. What is beeping that chimney from dropping? Just the cheap black pipe tee?
Firestop foam simply stops air movement slowing the spread of a fire it does not stop fire. Hold a lighter tons piece of it and see what happens.
You will not find a connector to go between the upper chimney pipe and the lower. It is not made because you aren't allowed to switch between types of chimney
That is an adapter to go on the bottom of one specific brand of chimney we don't know if it matches his chimney. And it doesn't take care of going from the triple wall to double wall chimney. That part is not made.
There is nothing gained by using chimney pipe on the stove if everything behind it is non-combustible right back to the block wall. Regular stove pipe could have been used.
The stove is not ideal. It will never be efficient or clean burning. If the goal is to heat then there are better options.
The stove is not ideal. It will never be efficient or clean burning. If the goal is to heat then there are better options.
Similar threads
