2021-2022 BK everything thread

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Hey fellas, would there be a possibility of causing some sort of damage via corrosion if I were to sweep the chimney top-down, but then leave the sweepings in the stove/bypass chamber overnight? A friend can come over tonight and run the brush through for me, but I've got a few things on the go so won't be able to shop vac it all up until tomorrow morning? Any issues you think, like with it sitting on the bypass gasket, or anything else?
 
Okay, here's part 2 question. My buddy was just over and swept. A bit of soot seems to have leaked out the seam where the telescopic pipe connects to my stove top adapter piece (in the pic, at the top seem). It's double-walled pipe. I realize that soot is very fine, and can penetrate things pretty easy, but is this normal or something to be concerned about?

IMG_5390.jpeg
 
Okay, here's part 2 question. My buddy was just over and swept. A bit of soot seems to have leaked out the seam where the telescopic pipe connects to my stove top adapter piece (in the pic, at the top seem). It's double-walled pipe. I realize that soot is very fine, and can penetrate things pretty easy, but is this normal or something to be concerned about?

View attachment 281985
Normal..
But if you leave the loading door open when sweeping that won’t happen…. Lol
 
  • Haha
Reactions: MissMac
Normal..
But if you leave the loading door open when sweeping that won’t happen…. Lol
hahahahah - thanks for the reassurance, and you got me there! maybe next time i'll try with the loading door open... :)
 
(Stupid?) question. I replaced my stove pipe to all double wall DVL this summer. Given that it's double wall - will there be any off gassing (like a newly painted stove)?
I'm asking so that, if I need to, I can make sure to start a fire while I can still open the windows comfortably... (though it is still near 75 this week, with 60+ nights, so I'll have to wait a month or so...)
 
(Stupid?) question. I replaced my stove pipe to all double wall DVL this summer. Given that it's double wall - will there be any off gassing (like a newly painted stove)?
I'm asking so that, if I need to, I can make sure to start a fire while I can still open the windows comfortably... (though it is still near 75 this week, with 60+ nights, so I'll have to wait a month or so...)
I had a little smell when I did mine, and actually will get a smell here and there if I burn with the T-stat fully opened and forget to close the pipe damper, its one of those things that the pipe stays pretty cool, but occasionally when burnt hot you'll get that burn metal / latex smell.
 
  • Like
Reactions: stoveliker
Removed the cat today from our BK Princess and cleaned up the stove and adjusted the door gasket. What do you guys recommend using for replacing the cat gasket? Local BK dealer is about an hour away. I can get Condar gasket material from another dealer about 20 min away. Or I found Interam gasket material, but it seems pricey. Any suggestionsor are they all about the same?
 
Removed the cat today from our BK Princess and cleaned up the stove and adjusted the door gasket. What do you guys recommend using for replacing the cat gasket? Local BK dealer is about an hour away. I can get Condar gasket material from another dealer about 20 min away. Or I found Interam gasket material, but it seems pricey. Any suggestionsor are they all about the same?
 
Removed the cat today from our BK Princess and cleaned up the stove and adjusted the door gasket. What do you guys recommend using for replacing the cat gasket? Local BK dealer is about an hour away. I can get Condar gasket material from another dealer about 20 min away. Or I found Interam gasket material, but it seems pricey. Any suggestionsor are they all about the same?

I would not remove the cat for any reason other than replacement with a new one which should come with a new gasket. If for some reason you wanted to remove the cat then I wouldn’t do it without a new gasket in hand, you’re dead in the water now and heating season is upon us.

I’ve used Midwest hearth for cats, would recommend them for fast shipping and high quality if they have it. You might as well buy a spare cat too. The economy has been weird and parts aren’t always available.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alpine1
There's time for an order. 87º predicted today for central Ohio. One can fall back on the central heating or even a space heater for chill chasing during early shoulder season.
 
The Ashford 30.2 was delivered yesterday, got the blower unit mounted and the stovepipe connected; inserted the CAT today which seemed straight forward, any thing I should know that is not in the manual? First cool night I plan for the first break-in fire.
Thanks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Highbeam
any thing I should know that is not in the manual
Check both your door and by-pass gaskets.
The by-pass just needs to be slightly snug, not clamp down tight, you will hear the cam click over and with some resistance pull a dollar bill through the flat gasket.
The door gasket should be tight all the way around (tighter then the by-pass) and when you shut the door is should almost micro suck into the knife edge.
Make sure if you have the ash pan that the clean out piece inside the stove is sitting flush to the floor, other then that, time to wait for some cooler weather to do some break in fires; good luck.
 
The Ashford 30.2 was delivered yesterday, got the blower unit mounted and the stovepipe connected; inserted the CAT today which seemed straight forward, any thing I should know that is not in the manual? First cool night I plan for the first break-in fire.
Thanks.

While you need some cooler weather for the draft, do the break in fires when you can still open your windows. It's going to stink.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alpine1 and MissMac
That's for true and pushed my first stove lighting off for awhile (I am timid--lol) for that very reason. I looked up your ashford 3.2 and its a neat stove and looks soo heavy duty...Your going to have a grand time....have a small party...thanks for sharing...neat stove...clancey
 
Cleaned the stove and our flue with the sooteater after our first full season of using the BK. Really satisfied with everything. No fly ash in the cat (no, for good reason I did not take it out), vacuumed it for good measure. In the flue only a few cups of creosote, mostly from the upper end. The stove-to-ceiling pipe was almost spotless.
 
Hi,

(Sorry this got a little long winded but I wanted to be precise, I promise there’s a question at the end lol)

I just moved into a new house that has a blaze king (ultra?) anyway this is my first time ever running a wood stove, my previous house I had to install a pellet stove due to various reasons.

I have read through the operating manual several times and before starting my first burn I cleaned out all the ash, inspected bypass valve for proper seating, checked door gasket and replaced the catalyst, the old one looked still serviceable but since I didn’t know the history of the stove I changed it out and saved the old one as a backup.

first burn was 6 pm Saturday night, loaded two quarter splits EW with some newspaper and 3 splits NS on top (kiln dried birch) started fire per manual with bypass open until just into active zone , closed bypass and ran at high for 25 min, everything ran flawlessly and over about 20-30 min period I slowly temped down to the #1 position. Fire was down to burning coals with some random light offs of what I guess was wood gas burning off. 15 hours later (9 am Sunday) the stove was still putting off heat, thermometer was just below active and stove hot to touch, 18 hours later still warm, could touch stove for about 2-3 seconds with bare hands. Left house to do stuff.

second load Sunday somewhere between 6-8 pm, stove felt completely cooled down at this point, this time I loaded same size wood but 3 splits EW with newspaper and 3 splits NS (so one extra piece vs night before) surprisingly the were some coals hot enough to smolder the newspaper before I had planned on lighting fire, started up this load EXACTLY as last time EXCEPT I turned down temp past #1 setting (meaning lowest) the dial spun back very far but stopped itself a little before doing a complete 360. I wanted to see how long of a burn I could get on lowest setting since it’s still above freezing at night here in Alaska. Everything seemed to be running perfectly, the coals seemed to be running a tad lower, obviously, and no “gas flares”.

approximately 12 hours later when I got up to check stove it was stone cold to the touch.

so by adding more wood and running it lower temps I got WAY less heat and run time.

So my question is, am I doing something wrong? Any input appreciated
 
Hi,

(Sorry this got a little long winded but I wanted to be precise, I promise there’s a question at the end lol)

I just moved into a new house that has a blaze king (ultra?) anyway this is my first time ever running a wood stove, my previous house I had to install a pellet stove due to various reasons.

I have read through the operating manual several times and before starting my first burn I cleaned out all the ash, inspected bypass valve for proper seating, checked door gasket and replaced the catalyst, the old one looked still serviceable but since I didn’t know the history of the stove I changed it out and saved the old one as a backup.

first burn was 6 pm Saturday night, loaded two quarter splits EW with some newspaper and 3 splits NS on top (kiln dried birch) started fire per manual with bypass open until just into active zone , closed bypass and ran at high for 25 min, everything ran flawlessly and over about 20-30 min period I slowly temped down to the #1 position. Fire was down to burning coals with some random light offs of what I guess was wood gas burning off. 15 hours later (9 am Sunday) the stove was still putting off heat, thermometer was just below active and stove hot to touch, 18 hours later still warm, could touch stove for about 2-3 seconds with bare hands. Left house to do stuff.

second load Sunday somewhere between 6-8 pm, stove felt completely cooled down at this point, this time I loaded same size wood but 3 splits EW with newspaper and 3 splits NS (so one extra piece vs night before) surprisingly the were some coals hot enough to smolder the newspaper before I had planned on lighting fire, started up this load EXACTLY as last time EXCEPT I turned down temp past #1 setting (meaning lowest) the dial spun back very far but stopped itself a little before doing a complete 360. I wanted to see how long of a burn I could get on lowest setting since it’s still above freezing at night here in Alaska. Everything seemed to be running perfectly, the coals seemed to be running a tad lower, obviously, and no “gas flares”.

approximately 12 hours later when I got up to check stove it was stone cold to the touch.

so by adding more wood and running it lower temps I got WAY less heat and run time.

So my question is, am I doing something wrong? Any input appreciated
Yes,
Very few BK’s can be run below the 2 oclock setting, you need to find the sweet spot for your setup (everyone’s situation is different)..
Once you find the spot on your dial that you cannot go below without losing your CAT you’re golden..
Also, you posted this in the wrong place, this should be in the section above this one, you’ll get more replies there !!/

edit : And BTW welcome..
also your stove will burn much better when all is loaded n/s..
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alpine1
Moved to the BK thread.
Ak_1981 what model BK stove is this?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.