Economical wood shed with power poles

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Instead of buying g the hurricane clips you can use 2×4 pieces that are nailed into your plate and then nailed into your rafter.
These are referred to as soldier braces if you want to look up for a visual reference.
May save a few more bucks if you have so.e 2x4 kicking around
I was trying to look up this solider brace. But cant find a pic of it. Any pics?
Thanks
 
20210824_183846.jpg
20210824_183846.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: MissMac and Diabel
I'd overhang the rafters a bit over the main beam. Stronger than hanging the roof off of some nails, and prevents some rain from hitting the wood.
 
I can't find anything on the web either, sorry for that. Should have said soldier blocking or soldier tie down as well. It's a common truss tie down used only in pole shed construction . A solid connection from roof member to bearing plate. In a more common shed it would be a 2x6 block nailed between the plates as it slides between nicely and matches the more common 6x6 post size. In this op situation I suggest a 2x4 due to a single plate and short rafter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Diabel
I'd overhang the rafters a bit over the main beam. Stronger than hanging the roof off of some nails, and prevents some rain from hitting the wood.
The are 9" over front and back and metal will be 2" more for a total of 11" overhang. Those 14ft rafters were actually 13'8" . Is what it is price was right.
 
Lookin good. Have any trouble getting the posts upright in the holes?
Not too much. Wiggled them to the hole then oldest daughter wife and me walked them up and they set in the hole when almost up.
 
Looks real good. What are your dimensions? As I said earlier, I am doing the same thing here. Hoping to hold at least 10 cord, or 20 if it is long enough.
 
Looks real good. What are your dimensions? As I said earlier, I am doing the same thing here. Hoping to hold at least 10 cord, or 20 if it is long enough.
12x20
 
The Forman who was over building my house offered me some free 17ft long that has been used. I'll have to cut it but that's OK. He lives about a mile from me so hopefully I can go pick it up after I'm over this covid mess that has drug me down for over week.
 
hope you continue to get better oilstinks--take plenty of vitamin c and some zinc too..plenty of liquids as well..see what your doctor can order in the way of med's too..Stay home if you can and hoping you improve and continuing to feel better as you sound okay about it..You'll jump out of being dragged down...clancey
 
  • Like
Reactions: Isaac Carlson
Picked up the free roofing today. The previous installer put screws every 16" so I'm going to have 9 lathing steps in a 12' length.
 
  • Like
Reactions: stoveliker
Picked up the free roofing today. The previous installer put screws every 16" so I'm going to have 9 lathing steps in a 12' length.
When I built my roof I used 1x3 lathing strips, in hindsight I would have been better off using 5/4 deck boards, much better quality material and will stiffen up the roof structure.
 
I used 2x6s on the ends of my shed and to separate one section from the other with plenty of gap between them. I left the front and back open so I can stack/ pull out wood from both sides. This allows for a lot of air flow and rotating wood is very easy. I can fit 5 stacks per bay of my shed. Last year I only burned 4 of them. I simply left that stack where it is and started stacking on the other side . I'll burning that last stack first next this year. Leaving it open just allows for a lot of freedom in what you can do.
 
Lathing strips for the shed and some I will have to rip. True 1in Sawmill pine. Not what I wanted but the price was right. Changed a serpentine belt tensioner on a 7.3idi for a friend and this was the payment. Was wanting poplar or even oak. Oldtimers say screws are less likely to back out of wood harder than pine.
16320876995072167646256051171139.jpg
 
Everything sounds really good oilstinks and my aren"t you the money pincher that could most likely squeeze a quarter out of a penny...good for you and fun reading your thread...clancey
 
Everything sounds really good oilstinks and my aren"t you the money pincher that could most likely squeeze a quarter out of a penny...good for you and fun reading your thread...clancey
Guys at work say I'm so tight that I could eat sawdust and crap 2x4s. But seriously though raising 3 kids and a stay at home mom who now has to help with distance learning (might as well call it home school) we do have to be frugal. I could go by the materials but the ridiculous lumber prices right now cause me to say um, no thanks.
 
I wouldn't worry about whether it's pine or not. Nails might back out over time, depending on the grain and nail, but I have not had any trouble with screws. Nails will bend as a joint moves, but most screws will break.
 
I wouldn't worry about whether it's pine or not. Nails might back out over time, depending on the grain and nail, but I have not had any trouble with screws. Nails will bend as a joint moves, but most screws will break.
I have a 24x28 shop that has metal roofing and I have to keep an eye on the screws. I used 1x4 yellow pine for strips and some of the screws have backed out. I have to check them all every 2 or 3 years. I have had 3 significant leaks since I built it in 2006 from screws which backed out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Isaac Carlson
Use a low root decking screw they don't back out
of anything
 
  • Like
Reactions: Isaac Carlson
Trailer load of broken down shipping crates for shed side from the mill I work at. That was quite the work. I'd just about rather went to the lumber yard and bought some but that's not economical lol .
16341362462672301903080969308990.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: clancey
You saved a lot of money with your effort there for prices are really getting high..Well worth the effort....clancey
 
You saved a lot of money with your effort there for prices are really getting high..Well worth the effort....clancey
I hope so they were put together with ring shank nails.
 
Man that sounds like a pain---how do you get them off?? Would you have to cut them out or something oilstinks?? But with each one think about maybe you "made 4 or 5 bucks to do it"--that will lighten your load---the wood is really nice and of pretty good quality...good for you..clancey
 
Corners were cut with a reciprocating saw and the rest with big hammer and grinder plus magnet to clean up driveway. Knocking the lumber off these was easy cause the nail heads wasn't in the keep lumber. Resized_20211013_105825.jpeg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: clancey