2021-2022 BK everything thread

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Just for you sir:

View attachment 289031

I threw one token piece of spruce on top :)
Well done! Show them guys how to load! Now if you can get them same density with fewer pieces (meaning more large pieces) you might just get some longer burn times. But what you've got here is an excellent example of a full load!
 
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Well done! Show them guys how to load! Now if you can get them same density with fewer pieces (meaning more large pieces) you might just get some longer burn times. But what you've got here is an excellent example of a full load!
I’m sensing someone measuring their firebox and getting ready to noodle ha.
 
Well done! Show them guys how to load! Now if you can get them same density with fewer pieces (meaning more large pieces) you might just get some longer burn times. But what you've got here is an excellent example of a full load!
When I was processing my ash this past March, I split some larger pieces out of the bigger rounds. Looking forward to getting into them - will be 23-24 and 24-25! Now that I have got a firm grip on being 3-4 years ahead with my processing, I plan on splitting my rounds larger, and might even just rip a few cuts lengthwise down the whole length of the birch trees (which are small in diameter to begin with) and leave them as rounds.
 
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Same for me. I've been hesitant going larger because it needs to dry. But I'm 3-4 year out now. So now I can.

I wonder though; with the thermostat managing the air based on *heat output*, a larger split should not burn slower than the same weight in smaller splits (past the initial charring/outgassing stage where surface area matters); the far majority of the burn cycle is a controlled chewing thru charred (baked... @Poindexter ;-) ) wood. At that point the shape or form of the wood shouldn't matter.

And the idea that one can get more wood in may not be true as tiling of the same shapes scales, creating the same amount of empty volume in the box for different sizes (of the same shape)...?
 
I can see why all you"crazies" (I would not have that much trust to build a load like that and would be afraid even with three big pieces...I can also see why you need to dry your wood out for 10,000 years--lol--just having fun here and just wait until I get my three "biggies" into my wood stove..Weather says cold and snow --keep warm and especially your wonderful wives for they like to be warm.. Yes...old mrs clancey
 
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Same for me. I've been hesitant going larger because it needs to dry. But I'm 3-4 year out now. So now I can.

I wonder though; with the thermostat managing the air based on *heat output*, a larger split should not burn slower than the same weight in smaller splits (past the initial charring/outgassing stage where surface area matters); the far majority of the burn cycle is a controlled chewing thru charred (baked... @Poindexter ;-) ) wood. At that point the shape or form of the wood shouldn't matter.

And the idea that one can get more wood in may not be true as tiling of the same shapes scales, creating the same amount of empty volume in the box for different sizes (of the same shape)...?
I have weighed the loads many, many times. More lbs in ='s more Btu's in. When I use large pieces, I definitely get more weight into the stove. I also like to use these mass piece, max load densities for the shoulder season, where I can let them simmer. With FBV maxed with smaller pieces, there is much more surface area available for combustion. The fire lights off very fast when I load in this fashion. If I choose the load I showed earlier, and reduce thermostat setting to a lower burn rate, that can produce lower Btu's for 30+ hours.

Keep the Tetris loading going and let's see how other load their Blaze King's!
 
I have weighed the loads many, many times. More lbs in ='s more Btu's in. When I use large pieces, I definitely get more weight into the stove. I also like to use these mass piece, max load densities for the shoulder season, where I can let them simmer. With FBV maxed with smaller pieces, there is much more surface area available for combustion. The fire lights off very fast when I load in this fashion. If I choose the load I showed earlier, and reduce thermostat setting to a lower burn rate, that can produce lower Btu's for 30+ hours.

Keep the Tetris loading going and let's see how other load their Blaze King's!
ok, more weight in makes sense. (Apparently the stove volume is too small to reach max density tiling of split shapes.)

But the "more surface area available for combustion" argument appears to ignore that the thermostat would, upon "more combustion" squeeze the air to create less combustion (after the initial quick offgassing burn is done). The thermostat is ignorant of the size of the wood.
 
ok, more weight in makes sense. (Apparently the stove volume is too small to reach max density tiling of split shapes.)

But the "more surface area available for combustion" argument appears to ignore that the thermostat would, upon "more combustion" squeeze the air to create less combustion (after the initial quick offgassing burn is done). The thermostat is ignorant of the size of the wood.
Now you are thinking. Next form a hypothesis...
 
I had to contribute my one and only load photo. My only regret is I wish my firebox was 10 or 15 cu now that would be nice.

DSCF0058.JPG
 
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I have been having a couple of things that have been on going for some time.
The first it After reloading the stove and charing the wood I get a smoke smell after It gets turned down to a cruise setting, The smell will last for about 4 hours or so. If I turn the stove up and get it to a point of flames no smell comes out. Turn it down and start getting the smoke smell again.

The second is the door gasket. the top right corner out six inches or so will never pass dollar bill test after the gasket is replaced, I have been putting a window gasket in as shims if you want to call it that and this will work. But I tend to have to adjust the door in as the season goes on. I can fluf the gasket for a bit before having to adjust it. But by the end of the season the gasket is pretty much crushed and need to replace it again the next season.

I did have someone out last year and had them put in a new door gasket and see about the smoke smell. He inspected the stove and chimney and did not see anything that would be leaking causing the smoke smell. He thought it possibly could be coming out the cat hole when running on low. When he replaced the gasket he had to just the stove pretty tight to get the top right to pass the dollar bill test he commented it should not be that tight. I told him I have been putting a glass gasket in as a "shim" , so he did do that. I called him out 4 time last season to have him adjust the door and towrds the end of the season he said yip you will probably have to replace the gasket again.
The door does not looked warped or anything, and bad thing was I ended up having to get a new door because of my own stupidity. But the new door is the same Top Right corner about six inches down and over need to "shim it" Looking for suggestions what to look for.
 
Is your door straight but not your stove?
Put a straight edge along both parts and see?
 
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All red oak. And to be compliant with current fads, one (1" dia) stick of fir on top. That was the top of last year's Christmas tree - why wast e perfectly good kindling...

IMG_20220103_191450849.jpg
 
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Ya'll need bigger trees! Nice full load Stoveliker.
 
Where is the thermometer needle pointing when stove is cold? These thermometers are not very accurate and or it maybe mis calibrated.
It is usually pointing at about the 8 o'clock position.
Where is the thermometer needle pointing when stove is cold? These thermometers are not very accurate and or it maybe mis calibrated.
 
Question, has anyone else with a fan kit has issues with the fan switch? I have the Princess with the fan kit and the dial/switch portion of the kit started giving up last winter. At first the fan would start to change speed on its own ,(lets say 10 means hi and 1 means low) it would go from 10 to 5 to 2 to 10 to 7 and so on over the course of the day. We have an old house that is not configured very well that is why we need the fan to assist in moving the hot air.
Now this winter it is much, much worse over the last week I have to play a "balancing act" by setting the knob right on the detent where the knob clicks from off to on, once I can get the knob to sit directly on that detent the fan will run on 10 only as long as you don't touch it, it will stay there and run. I will get by this winter then I will have to see is someone somewhere can match up a new switch for me. If anyone knows a replacement switch please post up the source and i will order one we need the fan and it would be nice if I did no have to run it on 10 all the time. Thanks for any information, Jeff
 
I cleaned out the king to get a good load in it.
Filled it with 5 year old Hickory, I didn't weigh
it but it sure was heavy, IMG_0655.jpgcan't see the
bottom row in the photo but two of the block
are shorter to have room for some kindling.
the 2 small splits on top are sugar maple.
have much bigger splits but couldn't get it
as tightly packed.
 
I cleaned out the king to get a good load in it.
Filled it with 5 year old Hickory, I didn't weigh
it but it sure was heavy, View attachment 289140can't see the
bottom row in the photo but two of the block
are shorter to have room for some kindling.
the 2 small splits on top are sugar maple.
have much bigger splits but couldn't get it
as tightly packed.
Wow! Canadian challenger…..this is becoming international!
 
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When he replaced the gasket he had to just the stove pretty tight to get the top right to pass the dollar bill test he commented it should not be that tight. I told him I have been putting a glass gasket in as a "shim" , so he did do that.
Anyone for comment on this? @BKVP? any harm on shimming between the window retainer studs?

I’m contemplating also shimming between the studs with some metal shim stock and then bedding it in with RTV when I change out the door gasket.
 
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