Hi, I’m trying to understand how to control the burn rate on the Lopi Evergreen. It says highest burn rate is to pull the handle all the way out and slowest is pushed all the way in. The part the seems to stump me is the middle. It says to only pull it out 5/16”, which definitely isn’t the middle of the travel. I’m wondering what others have experienced as far as a middle goes. I’d also like to know how you setup your over night fires. Do you burn on high for 15-20mins then set it to all the way low for overnight? Any tips would be appreciated.
Adjusting Lopi Evergreen burn rate
- Thread starter jrtonnesen
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Sorry to see this didn't get answered. With good draft shutting down the air control until it is just slightly open is common. It depends on the strength of the draft. In colder weather, you may be able to close it off completely and still have good secondary combustion.
I’m in the Willamette valley in Oregon, so maybe similar temps that you see. Have found the provided instructions for low/med/high burn to be pretty accurate.
Air control is not linear because as the fire heats up, the draft increases. Frequently, most of the control with a hot fire is within the last 20% of the air control range.
We have the Evergreen insert and we, too, are learning about it. It breathes very easily. I have learned to burn it wide open for the first few loads (2-3 splits each) to get a good coal bed and hot stove.
Once coals are established, I will reload and close it half or 2/3 depending on heat/draft and desired fire.
For overnight reload, I will close the air half way then all the way only after all splits have a char and the flame is estabished and stove is hot (~400).
BUT....we have also learned that this stove continues to breath and produce a "blow torch" flame from the center of the box, bottom up, and it can get pretty intense-run away, even after air has been closed for some time. Type of wood and wood placement for overnight load also seem to be key-block air spaces in center of stove.
I contacted Travis industries and their response was that the Evergreen is designed to operate at temps between 600-900 with spikes over 1k possible. Manual also says temps up to 800 are fine and describes this sort of breathing/air control as normal for this stove.
Once coals are established, I will reload and close it half or 2/3 depending on heat/draft and desired fire.
For overnight reload, I will close the air half way then all the way only after all splits have a char and the flame is estabished and stove is hot (~400).
BUT....we have also learned that this stove continues to breath and produce a "blow torch" flame from the center of the box, bottom up, and it can get pretty intense-run away, even after air has been closed for some time. Type of wood and wood placement for overnight load also seem to be key-block air spaces in center of stove.
I contacted Travis industries and their response was that the Evergreen is designed to operate at temps between 600-900 with spikes over 1k possible. Manual also says temps up to 800 are fine and describes this sort of breathing/air control as normal for this stove.
The other posting says this is with a 30' liner on the insert. It looks like strong draft is the problem. The stove is not what I would call an easy breather.
That is a surprising comment by the tech. I disagree, spikes at that temp should be uncommon. They will age the stove prematurely. Steel starts to glow red around 900º. The manual specifically states:
Overfiring the appliance may cause a house fire. If a unit or chimney connector glows, you are overfiring.
In the manual, a hot burn is described as 600º. While higher temperatures are possible, I would try to keep it under 700º To clarify it also states specifically:
Over-Firing the Stove
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER: Attempts to achieve heat output rates that exceed heater design
specifications can result in permanent damage to the heater.
This stove was designed to operate at a high temperature. But due to differences in vent configuration, fuel, and draft, this appliance can be operated at an excessive temperature. If the stovetop or other area starts to glow red, you are over-firing the stove. Shut the air control down to low and allow the stove to cool before proceeding.
Over-firing may lead to damage of plated surfaces. If you are uncertain of over-firing conditions, we suggest placing a stove thermometer (e.g. Rutland® Model 710) directly over the door on the stovetop - temperatures exceeding 800° are generally considered over-firing and will void the warranty
That is a surprising comment by the tech. I disagree, spikes at that temp should be uncommon. They will age the stove prematurely. Steel starts to glow red around 900º. The manual specifically states:
Overfiring the appliance may cause a house fire. If a unit or chimney connector glows, you are overfiring.
In the manual, a hot burn is described as 600º. While higher temperatures are possible, I would try to keep it under 700º To clarify it also states specifically:
Over-Firing the Stove
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER: Attempts to achieve heat output rates that exceed heater design
specifications can result in permanent damage to the heater.
This stove was designed to operate at a high temperature. But due to differences in vent configuration, fuel, and draft, this appliance can be operated at an excessive temperature. If the stovetop or other area starts to glow red, you are over-firing the stove. Shut the air control down to low and allow the stove to cool before proceeding.
Over-firing may lead to damage of plated surfaces. If you are uncertain of over-firing conditions, we suggest placing a stove thermometer (e.g. Rutland® Model 710) directly over the door on the stovetop - temperatures exceeding 800° are generally considered over-firing and will void the warranty
I agree with you, begreen. I was also surprised to hear that reply from the tech. I do not love that our insert gets that hot-it has not reached 800 but 700+ is fairly common. Unfortunately our chimney guy said installing a flue damper on our stove is unlikely, though he is testing the draft next week. So for the time being I try to reduce air space and load large, dense pieces for overnight burns.
Adding a damper to an insert is a bigger challenge, but it can be done in some cases. If not, a more restrictive chimney cap may help a little.
Similar threads
