Harman Advance status 6 blinks

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OK.It is still a 4rpm motor,but, if yours has the original gears/chain, one is slightly smaller. So auger itself would run a bit faster or slower,don't remember which,lol. But, it still should be faster than what you have counted. Were you able to tell if the motor stayed running the whole 60 seconds, or was stopping/starting, perhaps even slowing down?
 
OK.Well I do believe you have found the problem, mostly. The thing to do would be to check the voltage at the motor when it is running, and make sure it is "house" voltage 120. I see possibly 3 issues, control board not supplying proper voltage, auger motor bad and "dragging", or auger bearing bad and "dragging". In all 3 cases the motor would normally get hot very fast, so cannot go by that.
 
I have a Harmon Advance that will run for about 30 to 45 minutes and then throw a status light with 6 blinks and shut down. I've tried it on both stove temp and room temp and controls maxed out with the same results and a very weak flame. So far, this is what I have done after countless hours of research:
Disassembled and thoroughly cleaned the entire stove including the heat exchangers, removed and cleaned both blowers, fines pot (door is properly installed), igniter area, intake flapper, exhaust, and esp. I also replaced the room temp rod. I am certain that the auger is not getting blocked and no bridging is occurring. I'm leaning more towards an air leak issue but I dont know how to proceed in finding it other then just replacing all the seals, etc.


Is this a stove that's been working for you for a period of time or a new to you stove that has yet to function correctly for you?

Thanks

Hugh
 
I do see a "house" voltage at the motor of about 118 volts which is right on and I dont believe the auger bearing is bad as it rotates freely by hand.
This stove is one I acquired used and it has had this issue intermittently, then ran great for a short while, and now always has the issue and really doesnt run long enough to produce much, if any heat. I use it to heat my shop when I work out there.
 
Well,to me it sounds like the motor has a problem, especially if it ran OK before. Was thinking wrong motor, but not if it ran OK before. But should be a sticker on the motor, that will list the RPM.
 
Attached is the sticker on the motor. Appears to be 2rpm? How do I know whether it rotates clockwise or counter clockwise. I believe its clockwise

20220209_154642.jpg
 
Well I know of no Advance that used a 2rpm, but shall check.Seems that someone probably put the wrong one on. But, rotation would be looking at the shaft coming out of the motor.
 
Yes it should be ccw, as it is gear drive. i see no reference that any of the Advance models had a 2rpm, but seems to me some other harman model did, and lots of motors are interchangeable with other stove manufacturers. If it is only a part time use stove, you might want to consider an aftermarket motor, much cheaper.
 
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Good call on the auger motor. Just looked at 3 web sites for auger motors, listed 4 RPM only...
 
Your auger motor is shot. The chain drive is a 1:1 also. It should be running at 1 revolution every 15 seconds. The board sends out line voltage to the motor. It is not variable speed. it is on or off. Or there is something caught in the auger or slide plate binding up the auger. If you take a allen wrench and lossen the set screw on the sprocket on the auger motor shaft, the slide the sprocket and chain off the shaft then start in test mode and see if it is still running slow. If so the motor is shot. If it runs at 4 rpm then turn auger by hand and see if it is real stiff. you should be able to turn it by hand pretty easily with no pellets in the hopper.
You can slide sprocket off and on the auger shaft without messing with the white plastic tensioner.
 
Your auger motor is shot. The chain drive is a 1:1 also. It should be running at 1 revolution every 15 seconds. The board sends out line voltage to the motor. It is not variable speed. it is on or off. Or there is something caught in the auger or slide plate binding up the auger. If you take a allen wrench and lossen the set screw on the sprocket on the auger motor shaft, the slide the sprocket and chain off the shaft then start in test mode and see if it is still running slow. If so the motor is shot. If it runs at 4 rpm then turn auger by hand and see if it is real stiff. you should be able to turn it by hand pretty easily with no pellets in the hopper.
You can slide sprocket off and on the auger shaft without messing with the white plastic tensioner.
Read the thread properly. He has already figured out someone installed a wrong auger motor.
 
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Read the thread properly. He has already figured out someone installed a wrong auger motor.
Somehow I did not see page 2. But the chain drives are 1 to 1. on the Accentra FS, Advance and XXV so auger will turn at same rpm as the motor.
Also, on a 6 status light most want to got toward a bad ESP or board like the OP did. From my experience a 6 status is typically caused by pellets feeding slower than the control is sending them. Bad motor, wrong motor in this case, clogged slide plate or auger, long pellets ect. Just some food for thought.
 
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Somehow I did not see page 2. But the chain drives are 1 to 1. on the Accentra FS, Advance and XXV so auger will turn at same rpm as the motor.
Also, on a 6 status light most want to got toward a bad ESP or board like the OP did. From my experience a 6 status is typically caused by pellets feeding slower than the control is sending them. Bad motor, wrong motor in this case, clogged slide plate or auger, long pellets ect. Just some food for thought.
Earlier (2008 and back?) chain drives were not 1 to 1. one sprocket was 3.5" and one was 2.5". These were "upgraded" by a kit. The old parts are now pretty much obsolete, although some sellers still have some. And, the "upgrade" was also to be used with a newer control board, was figured into the programming.
 
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Earlier (2008 and back?) chain drives were not 1 to 1. one sprocket was 3.5" and one was 2.5". These were "upgraded" by a kit. The old parts are now pretty much obsolete, although some sellers still have some. And, the "upgrade" was also to be used with a newer control board, was figured into the programming.
Got ya. I have not ran into one of those yet. Also There is no change for dip switch settings for charge time that I can remember when replacing the board? Maybe the difference is not that significant?
 
Got ya. I have not ran into one of those yet. Also There is no change for dip switch settings for charge time that I can remember when replacing the board? Maybe the difference is not that significant?
The "precharge" can be adjusted by several of the dip switches. The switch settings are different on different model boards, depending on the dates. But the key is, the "acceptance" of the 1 to 1 augers is within the programming on the boards. If you did a chain/sprocket update on an older stove, that still has the older board, you would have a strange running stove. But some have. It is a shame Harman never releases all this "dealer" info, even for the older models. Most of what i know I have picked up over the years, and from some Harman trained technicians. To this day, they still don't tell people that the exhaust fan cover for accentra free standings have been/were upgraded for more exhaust flow. Although they still sell the ring reducer kit for the old cover. Harman is a shame, when it comes to info.
 
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Update! I just installed the new (correct rpm) motor and it seems to be running better than ever! Huge strong flame and blower was cranking higher speed than it ever has. I did not run it for too long since I was low on pellets but it was long enough and it didnt throw a code this time. Finally, my eyes dont have to tear with the kerosene heater anymore!
Thanks for all of the help and responses!!
 
Great, thanks for the update
 
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