Russian Fireplace / Masonry Heater...absolute newbie

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FogFirsFire

New Member
Oct 27, 2022
6
Florence, OR
Hi, I’m brand new here and have been combing through the site to learn more about a Russian fireplace / masonry heater we inherited with the purchase of our house.

What we can determine from old records is that a Norwegian gentleman built our house in 1981. Our house is in Florence, Oregon, nestled on 1.25 acres near a lake between the Oregon dunes and shady old tall green trees. It’s pretty cool throughout the year and the wet of winter can feel colder than my snowy days in Tahoe but, from what I’ve read, the ‘Russian fireplace’ is great for this climate.

I have a multitude of questions that I can’t seem to find answers to online.

Does anyone know what the open slots in the brick are on the lower right side of the fireplace? The owner had a thin piece of wood blocking this area. It appears to be intentional in the build.

We also have two areas - one low behind it in the stairwell to our basement at the level of where the wood would seem to burn and another higher up on the backside towards the upstairs bedroom. I’m just not sure what I should be doing with these spaces … if anything.

Also, can you really use the ‘oven’ on top? It’s fully enclosed with tile and that solid black door.

And should I burn two separate bundles…? I’ve read that two will heat the house for upwards of 12 hours (?).

The fireplace is 85” wide and reaches two stories.

When we saw the house for sale, there wasn’t one photo of the fireplace so you can imagine our shock when we first saw it. We were stunned by its beauty and uniqueness. It really is the center of our house….but we have yet to fire it up! It’s been two years since we moved here but I’m nervous to light my first match.

We did have an inspector look at it as well as the chimney from the roof and he was impressed by how great of shape it is in. He said it looks like no one has used it, but I know the guy who was friends with the owner (who sadly died during the sale) mentioned burning wood in the fireplace. The inspector said there was a terracotta lining in the chimney (?).

Any advice or resources you can offer would be greatly appreciated!

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Hi, I’m brand new here and have been combing through the site to learn more about a Russian fireplace / masonry heater we inherited with the purchase of our house.

What we can determine from old records is that a Norwegian gentleman built our house in 1981. Our house is in Florence, Oregon, nestled on 1.25 acres near a lake between the Oregon dunes and shady old tall green trees. It’s pretty cool throughout the year and the wet of winter can feel colder than my snowy days in Tahoe but, from what I’ve read, the ‘Russian fireplace’ is great for this climate.

I have a multitude of questions that I can’t seem to find answers to online.

Does anyone know what the open slots in the brick are on the lower right side of the fireplace? The owner had a thin piece of wood blocking this area. It appears to be intentional in the build.

We also have two areas - one low behind it in the stairwell to our basement at the level of where the wood would seem to burn and another higher up on the backside towards the upstairs bedroom. I’m just not sure what I should be doing with these spaces … if anything.

Also, can you really use the ‘oven’ on top? It’s fully enclosed with tile and that solid black door.

And should I burn two separate bundles…? I’ve read that two will heat the house for upwards of 12 hours (?).

The fireplace is 85” wide and reaches two stories.

When we saw the house for sale, there wasn’t one photo of the fireplace so you can imagine our shock when we first saw it. We were stunned by its beauty and uniqueness. It really is the center of our house….but we have yet to fire it up! It’s been two years since we moved here but I’m nervous to light my first match.

We did have an inspector look at it as well as the chimney from the roof and he was impressed by how great of shape it is in. He said it looks like no one has used it, but I know the guy who was friends with the owner (who sadly died during the sale) mentioned burning wood in the fireplace. The inspector said there was a terracotta lining in the chimney (?).

Any advice or resources you can offer would be greatly appreciated!

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I would try to find someone nearby that is in the masonry heater association.
 
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That's a good looker. A properly built one is a nice match for the NW climate. We had a Wesleyan community locally and they built several Russian fireplaces in the area.

You might ask around the local masonry community and try to find out who built it, and if they are still in the area. It's a ways away, but I see there is FireSpeaking in Eugene. https://www.firespeaking.com/

Here is a list of Oregon MHA members

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That's a good looker. A properly built one is a nice match for the NW climate. We had a Wesleyan community locally and they built several Russian fireplaces in the area.

You might ask around the local masonry community and try to find out who built it, and if they are still in the area. It's a ways away, but I see there is FireSpeaking in Eugene. https://www.firespeaking.com/

Here is a list of Oregon MHA members

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Thank you for the good info! Would be fun to find the original builder to learn more.
 
Hello FFF, I grew up close to Florence in Coos Bay, Oregon. I use to go fishing with my family on the Smith river flats. Looking at a masonry heater backwards we know it will contain certain things. It will have one or more dampers. It will have some way to get into the chambers to remove the ash. And, it will have some way to get air to the burning fire.

Those little round things on the doors are probably opening/closing dials to allow air in. Turn them and see if they move. You could have a lower and upper damper on this big thing. I wonder if they completely block the chimney air - they are suppose to always have a 10% opening (to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning). But in Europe they don't have this 10 % rule - they make them to completely cut off the air. And this builder was from Norway before many rules in USA.

Anyways with 2 dampers, you probably have a fire starting sequence where you get the best draft by opening one of the dampers and keeping the other one closed or partially open. What you are doing is blocking off some of the internal channels and becoming more like a fireplace until the draft gets going (tougher, especially in your coastal climate). It looks like he marked the dampers "open" & "closed".

Lastly, you have to find the access places in the brickwork where you can scoop or vacuum out the ash. Sometimes it is just bricks hiding the passage. Begreen suggested Max Edleson. He is a young curious guy. Maybe arrange for him to do an inspection, and to show you how to work this particular masonry heater. He might do it for a meal out and about in Florence.
 
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Moreover, Max Edleson could probably update the door if you wanted a more modern look. He has the hardware.
 
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Thank you for such a detailed reply, qwee!! Your input on the sequence for using the heater was hugely helpful. The inspector who came out talked about the spinners on the door that control airflow and they do indeed work as you described. We'll definitely reach out to Max Edleson. Thanks again!!
 
Moreover, Max Edleson could probably update the door if you wanted a more modern look. He has the hardware.
Hello FFF, I grew up close to Florence in Coos Bay, Oregon. I use to go fishing with my family on the Smith river flats. Looking at a masonry heater backwards we know it will contain certain things. It will have one or more dampers. It will have some way to get into the chambers to remove the ash. And, it will have some way to get air to the burning fire.

Those little round things on the doors are probably opening/closing dials to allow air in. Turn them and see if they move. You could have a lower and upper damper on this big thing. I wonder if they completely block the chimney air - they are suppose to always have a 10% opening (to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning). But in Europe they don't have this 10 % rule - they make them to completely cut off the air. And this builder was from Norway before many rules in USA.

Anyways with 2 dampers, you probably have a fire starting sequence where you get the best draft by opening one of the dampers and keeping the other one closed or partially open. What you are doing is blocking off some of the internal channels and becoming more like a fireplace until the draft gets going (tougher, especially in your coastal climate). It looks like he marked the dampers "open" & "closed".

Lastly, you have to find the access places in the brickwork where you can scoop or vacuum out the ash. Sometimes it is just bricks hiding the passage. Begreen suggested Max Edleson. He is a young curious guy. Maybe arrange for him to do an inspection, and to show you how to work this particular masonry heater. He might do it for a meal out and about in Florence.
Moreover, Max Edleson could probably update the door if you wanted a more modern look. He has the hardware.
PS - I love that you grew up in this area. My husband grew up in Florence and talked about moving back here for much of our marriage. After 25 years, we finally made the move and I've had to admit time and time again about how right he was. It is not without the usual challenges of a small tourist town, but it is a glorious place to call home.
 
I miss those 40 degree winter days, and those 65 degree summer days on the Southern Oregon coast.
Here's a couple of the better how-to videos. These heaters are the Finnish design - the heat goes up and down. If yours is a Russian type, the heat goes more side to side. Thomas Elpel built a Russian type from plans he found online (3rd video).


 
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Totally agree, qwee. There is nothing better than returning from temps in the 100s to a cool, misty 65. Ha. And after ten years in Tahoe, escaping snowy winters is blessed. Thank you for the videos! I'll watch them for some insight. I am wondering if those openings in the brick on the bottom left of the MH is for getting to ash, etc as you'd mentioned.