Vermont Castings Intrepid Flexburn Flue Collar Connection? Duravent or Selkirk?

[BussinNoCapFr]

Hi,
I cannot for the life of me find a detail as to how the double wall pipe is meant to connect to the 'out-the-top' flue collar on the Vermont Castings Intrepid Flexburn. I have some 6" ICC pipe from the person I bought the stove from, installed as per a picture below. The double wall pipe fits over the beautiful enamel flue collar and looks pretty wonky. I'd rather it go inside the collar if that's a possibility.

I will be switching to either 6" Selkirk or Duravent double-wall pipe since the few parts i need for the ICC pipe are outrageously expensive. Consequently, I'm not sure what parts I will need to make a proper connection as it is not detailed in the manuals. I'm not sure the previous owner had this installed properly either.

1) Should the double wall pipe be covering the flue collar as shown? Or, should there be an adapter so that the pipe doesn't cover the collar but the inner liner goes inside the collar?
2) For people with the Intrepid Flexburn- any issues with either Selkirk DSP or Duravent DVL?
3) I've found threads regarding a flue adapter- is it conclusive this is necessary? I see a DSP-6SA or DSP-6-FSA adapter and a Duravent 6DBK-AD and 6DVL-AD

Thread is here, for reference, but it's with a Dauntless model: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/vermont-castings-2022-dauntless-stove-adapter.193348/

From a video I found a clip that shows the pipe going INTO the flue collar, but I can't tell if that's single wall or double wall.





Thanks in advance- I sincerely appreciate the wealth of knowledge and commitment to helping others here.

 

[begreen]

Does the pipe feel snugly seated? if so, it's ok without the adapter. The install looks correct and is a typical fit. Our stove is the same way. Take off the label on the stovepipe if keeping it. What brand of chimney pipe and support box will this be connecting to?

PC: ICC Excel UltraBlack is a top-quality product. DVL will have the same fit.

 

[GrumpyDad]

the double wall pipe will not be able to fit over and inside the flu collar enough. VC either didnt think of this and thought everyone would be using single wall pipe or they thought of the adapter combo required but failed to relay this.
Your dealer at this point though, should have warned you of the correct layup. There was a service bulletin posted to all dealers according to VC.
That was my thread you referenced...and it is 100% face what I wrote as per VC (and verified via my dealer):
In short: You WILL need a single wall stove adapter AND a double wall if you are using Duravent double wall stove pipe. The single wall adapter model number is

6DBK-AD​

and the double wall adapter model number is
6DVL-AD

The single wall goes first, inside the flue collar. Rubber mallet that in there until the lip is just about almost flush with the stove collar, then the double wall goes next in the direction it is meant to per the label.
The double wall crinkled flange is small ID than the single wall. So there's going to be a gap , and a sizable one, between the single wall adapter ID and the double wall ID. And yes this is concerning as it will cause turbulence and IMO that cant be good. It works though....

 

[GrumpyDad]

That's the best picture I have at the moment. You can't really see the single wall piece as it is fully covered pretty much.

 

[BussinNoCapFr]

Thanks, Grumpy. That gives me hope. I went with Selkirk pipe after careful analysis of their flush stove adapter compared to your Duravent setup. I'll know in a week or two if it's successful at which point we'll have confirmation for two different companies' products.

As an aside: it's not that important on a matte black pipe but in case you ever use that IR gun on stainless steel cladding you need to adjust the emissivity setting, otherwise your readings will be significantly off. I did engineering work in factories in the past and temperature probing/sensor adjustment was part of the job. Additionally, for other readers, your temp readings are subject to the inverse square law and the laser isn't always accurate, so measuring from even 15 feet away won't be as good as it might seem.

I have zero experience with wood stoves so I sincerely appreciate your help- my experience is with pipes like 1 or 2 feet in diameter so it doesn't really directly correlate to an install like this.
I'll post when I know if the Selkirk adapter works.

 

[GrumpyDad]

Thanks, Grumpy. That gives me hope. I went with Selkirk pipe after careful analysis of their flush stove adapter compared to your Duravent setup. I'll know in a week or two if it's successful at which point we'll have confirmation for two different companies' products.

As an aside: it's not that important on a matte black pipe but in case you ever use that IR gun on stainless steel cladding you need to adjust the emissivity setting, otherwise your readings will be significantly off. I did engineering work in factories in the past and temperature probing/sensor adjustment was part of the job. Additionally, for other readers, your temp readings are subject to the inverse square law and the laser isn't always accurate, so measuring from even 15 feet away won't be as good as it might seem.

I have zero experience with wood stoves so I sincerely appreciate your help- my experience is with pipes like 1 or 2 feet in diameter so it doesn't really directly correlate to an install like this.
I'll post when I know if the Selkirk adapter works.

how did it turn out?

 

[BussinNoCapFr]

Just tried it out this weekend. Perfect fit. Snug, the only thing that can fit in there is some stove cement. The photo doesn't show the internal taper of the flue collar effectively.
I may have to trim the bottom piece that extends down into the flue collar so that I can get the first 'shoulder' lower to the actual stove.
This is the Selkirk FSA (Flush Stove Adapter)


Maybe about 3/4"cut and it should be perfect. Whether that voids UL is another question. I'll see how it looks installed in a few weeks, and I'll update.


I also have to figure out what paint to use to fix that scratched enamel from the previous owner....

 

[Kevin Weis]

I think you have it in the collar upside-down. The male ends should always face toward the stove typically.

 

[BussinNoCapFr]

The collar or the flush stove adapter? This is the only literature I have (image below) and it's not specific to the flush stove adapter.

I don't recall which way the UL sticker was pointing but the double wall pipe fits over the crimped outer pipe very well. I'll check on Saturday but I'm fairly certain this is the only configuration that makes sense.
My ICC pipe and the selkirk pipe disagree completely regarding outer wall crimps up or down, maybe that's the source of the problem?

 

[GrumpyDad]

dumb question but have you tried to fit that top piece with the flared end into the stove collar and omit the bottom piece?
I think that top piece was made to seat the opposite as it is right now, facing down. Ive never seen flared edges pointed up in my research, but @begreen might know best or they may be able to recommend someone.

The only makeup Im aware of that VC has published for how to install double wall pipe is by using duravent, using a single wall adapter then a double wall on top of that, adhering to the directional flow stickers. I'm just not sure about the product you are using and how it would attach. You may need to contact a VC dealer or VC directly (be prepared to be blown off, reason #13413423423 I would never buy VC again)

What happened to the adapter you had pictured above when you were first posting about this. That seems like it would have been the proper way (hard to tell) with the flared ends going down into the stove.

 

[BussinNoCapFr]

UL sticker shows flared end up.
The crimp at the top is the proper diameter for the next double wall pipe to connect to it.

If I flip it, there's no chance it will fit.
ID stove at the taper is about 5 3/4" or 5 7/8"
OD of the crimped end is about 6 1/6"

I might have to double post to get all images uploaded.

The pic with a yellow cutout on the bottom part of the adapter is what I intend to remove to make it flush with the top of the flue collar. You can see the shoulder on the flue outlet which prohibits the first stovepipe from recessing deeper.

The original one I added with the thread at the first post is a different adapter, the dsp-6a.

 

[bholler]

I think you have it in the collar upside-down. The male ends should always face toward the stove typically.

No it's right the crimp you are seeing is only for the outer wall

 

[BussinNoCapFr]

Is this any different than if I had a single wall pipe inserted into the flue collar and then used a single wall to double wall stove adapter? The flush stove adapter looks like it's just a piece of double wall with the outer wall trimmed shorter.

 

[Hbob]

UL sticker shows flared end up.
The crimp at the top is the proper diameter for the next double wall pipe to connect to it.

If I flip it, there's no chance it will fit.
ID stove at the taper is about 5 3/4" or 5 7/8"
OD of the crimped end is about 6 1/6"

I might have to double post to get all images uploaded.

The pic with a yellow cutout on the bottom part of the adapter is what I intend to remove to make it flush with the top of the flue collar. You can see the shoulder on the flue outlet which prohibits the first stovepipe from recessing deeper.

The original one I added with the thread at the first post is a different adapter, the dsp-6a.



View attachment 306088 View attachment 306089 View attachment 306091 View attachment 306092 View attachment 306093 View attachment 306094

I have the same issue with a new Encore. I will be using Selkirk DSP pipe as you did. I ordered the Flush Adapter DSP6FSA as you have pictured. How did it work out in the end? Did you trim it? I was also going to order the standard Stove Pipe adapter DSP6A but it looks like that did not work at all for you? I am using double wall 6" Selkirk all the way up to my Class A roof chimney.

 

[begreen]

VC stove collars may need some checking first. I know with DuraVent DVL stove pipe they do. Their adapter is too loose of a fit. The straight pipe is better. How does the fit feel with Selkirk DSP?

 

[Hbob]

UL sticker shows flared end up.
The crimp at the top is the proper diameter for the next double wall pipe to connect to it.

If I flip it, there's no chance it will fit.
ID stove at the taper is about 5 3/4" or 5 7/8"
OD of the crimped end is about 6 1/6"

I might have to double post to get all images uploaded.

The pic with a yellow cutout on the bottom part of the adapter is what I intend to remove to make it flush with the top of the flue collar. You can see the shoulder on the flue outlet which prohibits the first stovepipe from recessing deeper.

The original one I added with the thread at the first post is a different adapter, the dsp-6a.



View attachment 306088 View attachment 306089 View attachment 306091 View attachment 306092 View attachment 306093 View attachment 306094

VC stove collars may need some checking first. I know with DuraVent DVL stove pipe they do. Their adapter is too loose of a fit. The straight pipe is better. How does the fit feel with Selkirk DSP?

I will know about the Selkirk DSP when I get mine all my parts assembled in a few weeks. I may try and trim the "flush adaptor" as mentioned by BussinNoCapFr above if the standard adaptor does not work.

 

[BussinNoCapFr]

Checking back since last year- all good.
I trimmed the Selkirk double wall FSA, but I didn't do the cutout I proposed the second time. I just cut the protruding inner pipe shorter until it looked like below; barely touching the enamel collar. If I recall correctly I drew some dots on an image in my first posts, that's what I did.
I added rope insulation in there too, you can see some of it sticking out if you look hard. The stove's enamel collar isn't a perfect fit to either single wall or this double wall flush stove adapter so I figured it might help.
I ran it for a year without the insulation but wanted to be thorough this time around.