Mounting wall tiles behind stove so they're not flush against wall?

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IndoorSunshine

New Member
Jul 23, 2022
13
Culpeper, VA
I'm getting ready to have a contractor build a hearth platform and attach tiles to the wall behind where the stove will go. The wall tiles will extend all the way to the ceiling and will be this type of tile: https://www.tileshop.com/products/copper-rust-random-rectified-6-3-x-23-5-in-655470 The edges of the wall tile will be irregular, for a more rustic look. The plan is to put cementboard behind the tiles and thinset, for extra protection for the wall. The contractor said the last time he did that, he cut out the drywall and attached the cementboard to the studs directly, so the tiles ended up flush against the wall along the edges of the tiled area. However, I'd rather avoid that extra mess and expense, and I'm also thinking the drywall would offer another little measure of protection for the studs, though the drywall itself is combustible.

Has anyone mounted cementboard on top of drywall, and then had the wall tiles sort of floating out by a little? (I'm envisioning that the cementboard wouldn't be quite as wide as the tile area, so wouldn't be visible, and/or its edges could be painted the same color as the wall.) If you've done something like this, are you happy with how it looks? I tried searching online for pictures to give me a better sense of how it would look, but my search terms are not coming up with anything of this sort.
 
The tile guy is making a good suggestion. It would look a bit wonky with the raw edges and the drywall protection is minimal. One option would be to trim the side edges with wood side framing.

Does the stove installation meet the minimum required clearances now to the drywall?
 
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The tile guy is making a good suggestion. It would look a bit wonky with the raw edges and the drywall protection is minimal. One option would be to trim the side edges with wood side framing.

Does the stove installation meet the minimum required clearances now to the drywall?
Interesting idea about wood framing. I had not thought about doing anything on the edges for the platform part either, but maybe it would look nice to have some wood framing there too. And yes, the minimum clearance requirement to the drywall would be met.
 
Interesting idea about wood framing. I had not thought about doing anything on the edges for the platform part either, but maybe it would look nice to have some wood framing there too. And yes, the minimum clearance requirement to the drywall would be met.
So technically I don't really need the cementboard layer, but I was under the impression that it would be good to have as an extra precaution, because I would be just right at the minimum clearance for the back of the stove.
 
I had the cement board setback from drywall by 2” with spacers that I put the screws through. I then applied slate end cut tiles on the cement board and then installed trim around the sides and top leaving about 1-1.5” gap on sides and top. The screws all went through the cement board into studs.
 
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If you meet the minimum clearance to combustibles then you don't need any "extra" safety from a layer of cement board.

If you don't use cement board at all then you are depending on the bond between tile and the sheetrock which isn't as strong as the bond to cement board. That is the typical reason to bring cement board on site for a hearth wall.
 
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If you meet the minimum clearance to combustibles then you don't need any "extra" safety from a layer of cement board.

If you don't use cement board at all then you are depending on the bond between tile and the sheetrock which isn't as strong as the bond to cement board. That is the typical reason to bring cement board on site for a hearth wall.
Exactly right. The cement board, even if 1/4", will bond better than the paper on drywall.
 
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If you meet the minimum clearance to combustibles then you don't need any "extra" safety from a layer of cement board.

If you don't use cement board at all then you are depending on the bond between tile and the sheetrock which isn't as strong as the bond to cement board. That is the typical reason to bring cement board on site for a hearth wall.
Ah, ok, I didn't know that. Good to know.
 
I had the cement board setback from drywall by 2” with spacers that I put the screws through. I then applied slate end cut tiles on the cement board and then installed trim around the sides and top leaving about 1-1.5” gap on sides and top. The screws all went through the cement board into studs.
That's an interesting idea. Just to make sure I understand, if you look at the side of your tiled wall, you can see all the way through to the other end, through the air gap?
 
That's an interesting idea. Just to make sure I understand, if you look at the side of your tiled wall, you can see all the way through to the other end, through the air gap?
The air gap may not be visible from the side if obstructed by a spacer if a metal stud or # strips of cement board were used as firring strips to create the gap. The space must be open at the bottom by at least an inch, vertically unobstructed, and open at the top.

This is unnecessary if the clearances are met.
 
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