As long as it has good UV resistance and metal adhesion. Use one that is not acetic acid based. GE Silicone II is a good one.
Is this all i need for the install?
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If you can buy a mixture of lengths that will get you to approx where your ceiling support will be hanging down, then you may be able to get away without using telescopic pipe but you would need to install the ceiling support last, then attach the ceiling support to the support boards which I dont see in your picture, then the roof flashing. Then the chimney inside the ceiling support box, then your storm collar, then your cap and you are done. Seal the storm collar, go build a test fire.
Also not sure if you considered a stove adapter. Your pipe might just seat right on there.
Have you checked that this stove will draft properly with that short run?
one final thing to consider. Your rafters are only 2x4's so you wont have much wood to attach your ceiling support box and it's probably going to be hanging down really low, and you will likely need to use tin snips to fold over the ceiling support box over on top of the roof and under the roofing materials. Search for the ceiling support box install instructions that show how to overlap the extra ceiling box materials under the roofing materials. Hopefully you havent shingled yet, but if you have be prepared to carefully pull up the shingles to get the ceiling box material and roof flashing under the shingles. Dont do it like most people do which is get the top row of shingles over the flashing. Get as many as you can.
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He is getting single wall you just cut it to length and slide the stove under the chimney if you don't use a telescoping section. No big deal. And yes the support box will need to be cut to match the pitch of the roof.
yooperdave
Minister of Fire
With single wall, you can also place in the last section of the crimped end snapped together and then work the snap closed (from crimp end to open end) until it is all in place.
However, it may be best/easier to just use a drawband connector for when you remove/change the stove pipe. Don't over tighten the draw band! (ha!)
You might as well add one of these now as I'm thinking you're gonna wish you had otherwise.
Yeah draw bands are a decent option but they cost about the same as a telescoping section and can leak potentially because the bottom joint will not be run the right direction. I have never tried snapping together in place but it could work depending on the pipe. Some of it can be a real pita.With single wall, you can also place in the last section of the crimped end snapped together and then work the snap closed (from crimp end to open end) until it is all in place.
However, it may be best/easier to just use a drawband connector for when you remove/change the stove pipe. Don't over tighten the draw band! (ha!)
You might as well add one of these now as I'm thinking you're gonna wish you had otherwise.
With their short chimney I really doubt they will need a damper
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yooperdave
Minister of Fire
Kinda like protection. Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
Snapping the pipe together that way is a pita. Measuring must be precise when doing it that way.
I’ve found better quality singlewall snaps together easier than the cheap stuff.
Thanks for all the advice, I've seen people cut the support box to match the pitch of the roof but I've never seen anyone cut the top and put it on the shingles? I'll have to look into this. The roof is already done, the shed is around 3 years old now. I've watching people cut and snap together two pipes and it doesn't seem that bad but we'll see how it is in real life.
I was thinking about the support box too, can't I cut off like 50% of it so it sits flush with the ceiling or do I have to lay It on the roof? I've read that I have to have at least 2inches from the closest combustible. All the videos I've watched I've never seen anyone cut and fold it on the roof but it wouldn't be that bad of an idea.
The total length of pipe for my stove is 12 feet but when my local stove dealer came by for a estimate he said I should try 10feet first and if it drafts bad add another 2 feet on top. With 10feet I'll be over the peak of my roof by 2feet for sure and if I add more it'll look really stupid from the outside but I'll do it if I have a bad draft.
I thought you simply install the support box and everything outside and at the end connect the stove to it?
I bought both the telescoping pipe and 2 36inch pipes.
The total length of pipe for my stove is 12 feet but when my local stove dealer came by for a estimate he said I should try 10feet first and if it drafts bad add another 2 feet on top. With 10feet I'll be over the peak of my roof by 2feet for sure and if I add more it'll look really stupid from the outside but I'll do it if I have a bad draft.
I thought you simply install the support box and everything outside and at the end connect the stove to it?
I bought both the telescoping pipe and 2 36inch pipes.
Just reading a bunch of stuff on support boxes and it seems that if I cut and screw it to the top of my roof that I don't need to frame it on thr inside of my shed?
And I was wrong about 2inchs away from combustibles I think it needs to be 18inches.
And I was wrong about 2inchs away from combustibles I think it needs to be 18inches.
Chimney pipe clearance is 2". Single-wall stove pipe requires 18" clearance. Double-wall stove pipe requires 6" from the side.
Sorry should of clarified, thank you.
I just got all the stove pipe today
!
So my goal is to install it Monday.
Can I cut the support box down a bit so it's not hanging so low on my ceiling? Or just deal with it.
I just got all the stove pipe today
! So my goal is to install it Monday.
Can I cut the support box down a bit so it's not hanging so low on my ceiling? Or just deal with it.
yooperdave
Minister of Fire
Sorry should of clarified, thank you.
I just got all the stove pipe today
So my goal is to install it Monday.
Can I cut the support box down a bit so it's not hanging so low on my ceiling? Or just deal with it.
I'm not sure how tall the support box is or just how low it would hang down. If it were me, I would cut it on an angle to match teh pitch of the roof. You don't need any "head room" underneath it as there will be a single wall pipe stuffed into it....I mean, it's not like you're going to bump your head on the corner of the support box, right?
Like bholler said, definitely build a support for it.
Good luck Monday.
Ya I won't bump my head on it for sure, it'll be in a corner with nothing around it. Ya I will for sure build a support around the box and even try to drill it into the roof.
Thank you, I will keep everyone posted.
I always say the biggest surprise is no surprise so we'll see how Monday goes.
Thank you, I will keep everyone posted.
I always say the biggest surprise is no surprise so we'll see how Monday goes.
So i want me to make sure I'm reading this right, if I have a double wall connector my distance for "f" would be 9". If I use single wall with let's say sheet metal on the wall can I still have 9"? Or even that heat shield thing I see for the pipes?
Just metal on the wall won't change anything. It needs to be a proper ventilated heat shield
Ok, a heat shield seems pretty cheap. My shed is kinda small so I would rather it tucked into the corner as much as possible. It looks much better with 9" of clearance rather than 18".
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