blown head gasket on a Duramax???

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Anyone else hear the old school methods of head gasket diagnosis I did?
Coolant loss plus oil gain and milky color/ antifreeze smell, or antifreeze smell in exhaust.
Or hear to test thermostats by heating in water before installation... also have seen them installed wrong direction.
This sounds like a timing issue, combined with air in cooling system, followed by water pump.
 
You know what's funny I never checked the dipstick nor did my mechanic. But then again he says you won't get coolant in the piston if its just a small pin hole because there is to much compression. But when it the gasket really blows out.....look out.... You'll be crop dusting like nobody's business.

I have changed the oil once since the low coolant display showed up back over the summer and there were no signs. But I'm due to change it again.
 
infinitymike said:
You know what's funny I never checked the dipstick nor did my mechanic. But then again he says you won't get coolant in the piston if its just a small pin hole because there is to much compression. But when it the gasket really blows out.....look out.... You'll be crop dusting like nobody's business.

I have changed the oil once since the low coolant display showed up back over the summer and there were no signs. But I'm due to change it again.
Click to expand...

That is correct. Water in the oil is rare. If you are gaining oil with the duramax you most likely have an injector going out. That sux too. The thromostats can only be put in one way. One is bigger than the other....unless your meaning upside down which with them being original in his truck should have presented itself sooner, I would think any way.
 
If you end up "making" engine oil there is a test called a blot test where you put a drop of oil on white paper towel. It will "halo" if you have fuel in the oil.
 
Will it halo with coolant in the oil?
 
no we got off topic a bit there. If you ever notice your engine oil level higher than where you filled it to, you most likely would have an injector leaking. When they leak they leak fuel into the engine oil increasing its level. You can put a drop on a paper towel and you will see a black oil spot with a lighter "halo" around that. Plus you can usually smell the fuel in the oil....off topic some but somewhat rrelevant in the context at that time.
 
In most HG failures your vehicle smokes like my hardy heater and would have coolant in the oil making it look milky and raising the oil level on dip stick. In most cases with the duramax that dont.happen. You have the symtoms that you describe... but hopefully Its just your water pump... still not cheap but cheaper than head gaskets.
 
This is a fun thread.

1. have compression check a.) as is(DRY) b.) with oil in cylinder "WET"
a.) will tell you the current condition of engine with rings as a question.
b.)will seat the rings with oil and raise compression readings. if you have a bad injector it will most likely wash the cylinders down lowering compression.
while compression test is done the glow plugs are out. install all 8 new($160) and anti sieze the threaded portion. (save on labor)
2. GM has always been a 60,000 mile magic mile mark! the diesel is Japanize though that is typically a 100,000 mile magic mile mark!
60,000 change idler and tensioner pullys($50 idler $68 tensioner and pully),check alternator($180-200 new), change serpentine belt($45-70), water pump change(Hitachi new $200),change thermostats($40 each),check all hoses and coolant pipes replace as needed, flush and fill. reservoir cap($15) 15 psi cap.
3.) road test for a while after clearing all codes you will most likely be fine. if it is not then its head gasket time. *unless compression check reveals head gasket right off the bat.
4.)head gaskets: remove both heads send to machine shop pressure check and plane(call shop for price), intake gaskets, and fuel injectors($1600 new $1600 core charge)
* do not just slide head gaskets in.

If you can do your own work. checking and replacing what is broken is great.
if you pay labor than having the parts on hand saves labor if you are at an hourly shop. flat rate shops may charge for each replacement item(costly)

just my experience with many GM trucks(gas and diesel) on the hook of the tow truck. and most are towing something when this stuff craps out.

BTW injector pump is about $842

Magic mile mark is when things break. not all the time but most of the time.

keep old stuff belts pullys etc. helps in the event of a break down and parts are not available.
 
NE WOOD BURNER said:
This is a fun thread.

1. have compression check a.) as is(DRY) b.) with oil in cylinder "WET"
a.) will tell you the current condition of engine with rings as a question.
b.)will seat the rings with oil and raise compression readings. if you have a bad injector it will most likely wash the cylinders down lowering compression.
while compression test is done the glow plugs are out. install all 8 new($160) and anti sieze the threaded portion. (save on labor)
2. GM has always been a 60,000 mile magic mile mark! the diesel is Japanize though that is typically a 100,000 mile magic mile mark!
60,000 change idler and tensioner pullys($50 idler $68 tensioner and pully),check alternator($180-200 new), change serpentine belt($45-70), water pump change(Hitachi new $200),change thermostats($40 each),check all hoses and coolant pipes replace as needed, flush and fill. reservoir cap($15) 15 psi cap.
3.) road test for a while after clearing all codes you will most likely be fine. if it is not then its head gasket time. *unless compression check reveals head gasket right off the bat.
4.)head gaskets: remove both heads send to machine shop pressure check and plane(call shop for price), intake gaskets, and fuel injectors($1600 new $1600 core charge)
* do not just slide head gaskets in.

If you can do your own work. checking and replacing what is broken is great.
if you pay labor than having the parts on hand saves labor if you are at an hourly shop. flat rate shops may charge for each replacement item(costly)

just my experience with many GM trucks(gas and diesel) on the hook of the tow truck. and most are towing something when this stuff craps out.

BTW injector pump is about $842

Magic mile mark is when things break. not all the time but most of the time.

keep old stuff belts pullys etc. helps in the event of a break down and parts are not available.
Click to expand...




Or swap in a Cummins and forget about having any problems for another 400,000 miles.
 
ironpony said:
Or swap in a Cummins and forget about having any problems for another 400,000 miles
Click to expand...

yes that is a great idea, but I think the IFS gets in the way for the big one. 4BT with lots of mods would get it done.

my son just picked up a 2001 2500 quad 4wd 120000 miles 6spd manual 24valve. nice truck. they are the best cold weather starting diesel I have run into.
 
Well the symptoms got worse and there was more coolant blowing out more regularly.
I had to do it, but REALLY?! Ya gotta pull the engine to fix these things?!
My mechanic and several others I called just out of disbelief all said the same thing...you can pull the engine or lift the body off the frame!!!
No wonder it will cost 4 grand
I'm no wrench turner but I have a hard time buying that.



image.jpg
 
last year i was talking to a ford teacher. he had the lastest ford diesel pickup with him. after looking under the hood i asked how does anyone work on this thing. his answer was pull the cab off the frame. and he said that he has guys that will have the cab off in a hour. the least any of the truck or car companys could do if they're going to make a vehicle that needs a plunger to do a motor is make it so you could get a few more years out of it before anything has to be done to it. the days of 200 to 300 dollars for a repair are gone.
 
Well that sucks. Does that price include all the other things that should be done also? ask them to show you the head gaskets they take out If there was a failure of the gasket you will see it.
 
as stated above , same for the power strokes. really sorry to hear that, something that is easily fixable becomes a major project. good luck with the repairs.
 
NE WOOD BURNER said:
yes that is a great idea, but I think the IFS gets in the way for the big one. 4BT with lots of mods would get it done.

my son just picked up a 2001 2500 quad 4wd 120000 miles 6spd manual 24valve. nice truck. they are the best cold weather starting diesel I have run into.
Click to expand...



mine is an 02 same configuration. 120000 just broken in mine is at 110000. that is basically a single rear wheel 1 ton, they went to a Dana 80 with the six speed and it is probably a High Output (HO) motor. Look into changing the steering components to 3rd gen. parts when needed. direct replacement and better geometry.
Back to regularly scheduled programming.
 
Just wait until ford puts a diesel in the new Aluminum F150. That will be an expensive one to fix!
 
jatoxico said:
Sucky day. What are the might as wells gonna add up to?
Click to expand...


Ha that's funny.
I got the call on monday and i quote
Well, we might as well change the water pump
Put an after market left side Exhuast manifold
Do a PCV re route
Do an EGR blocker.

Honestly not sure the dollar amount.
 
NE WOOD BURNER said:
Well that sucks. Does that price include all the other things that should be done also? ask them to show you the head gaskets they take out If there was a failure of the gasket you will see it.
Click to expand...

Not sure.
What are all the other things that should be done?
 
Don't forget your glow plugs and injectors! now is the time. EGR blocker or EGR delete?


See previous comments from Christmas gave you a list with prices. -LOL
 
The 04 Duramax has two thermostats. One IIRC has a bleed screw on top of the Tstat. That's where you bleed the air out of the system. Go to
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/index.php and do a search for bleeding air. Another thing, in the morning when you go out to start your truck, look at the top radiator hose. If it is collapsed, ie sucked in, you need to replace your coolant recovery cap. Also the fluid that came out by the front tire, if the water pump is failing, it will leak from the weep hole in the bottom of the pump, and will give you that fluid. That is also covered in the web site above. My 04 Duramax was the best truck I ever owned.
 
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