Wood moisture reading

Agree with bholler. Oak, White Oak for sure, takes a while. I would burn it with those readings without hesitation. I've had Oak seasoned two years that still hisses water.

It will burn fine. Most oak I burn is like that as well. Some folks wait three or more years but I have found that burning hardwoods under 18 percent center moisture can be dangerous depending on your stove/draft situation. I have a Jotul f400 with a strong draft. Hardwoods under 18% burn too hot, even with the damper shut all the way, and can easily take my stovetop into the 850F degree range.

More moisture in the center than on the edge - it will almost always be the case. Those moisture readings will be fine to burn.

Wolves1 said:

I took my 2 year old oak took a moisture reading on the outside it was12% moisture. I then split the wood the inside of the split was 13% about 4 inches from the end when I took the reading right in the center it was 21%. What are the thoughts on the numbers? How do you think the oak will burn this coming burning season?

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It will do pretty well. I have 3 yr old red oak (standing green when cut) that was at 17% when I checked it about a month ago. It takes along time for oak. It will probably take a little longer before you can start shutting down the primary air than 15% wood but if you keep that in mind you'll be fine.

CentralVAWoodHeat said:

It will burn fine. Most oak I burn is like that as well. Some folks wait three or more years but I have found that burning hardwoods under 18 percent center moisture can be dangerous depending on your stove/draft situation. I have a Jotul f400 with a strong draft. Hardwoods under 18% burn too hot, even with the damper shut all the way, and can easily take my stovetop into the 850F degree range.

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Have you tried intalling a flue damper? I know they aren't recommend with an EPA stove but if it can slow down or prevent border line over-fires it may be worth it to have it in and not need or necessarily use it. You may also find that it can help slow the draft and result in a more even burn with less large coals from the wood off gassing too fast. Just an idea for you.

when we test for emissions in our lab, we have to record average moisture of each split as well as average moisture for the test load along with the weight of the load. our method of measuring moisture is to take 6 readings 3 each on 2 faces and average them (take total and divide by 6, we use a penetrating meter for this reason, if you have a surface meter you would have to split twice) what I would do in your situation is split once and measure 3 times, on in center and both ends about an inch to 2 inches in from the end, then add the total of the 3 measurements then divide by 3, this will give you a reasonable average moisture to work with. our tests are performed with wood between 18 and 23 % based on a 6 point check. usually our average is around 19 to 20 percent

for example your 3 readings were 12%, 13% and 21% which totals 46 divide that by 3, it gives you 15.3% average moisture. this would actually be too dry for our testing purposes but would be fine to burn in an EPA unit. we typically use pieces that dry for our"preload" which is required to build the coal bed for the actual test fire.

What's a good range for split Ash to burn? I have several stacks that have been drying for almost a year and are reading between 18-21% on the ends. I'm using this meter. Thanks!


Dr.Meter MD-812 LCD Display Digital Wood Moisture Meter for Wood, Sheetrock, Carpets and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008V6I840/?tag=hearthamazon-20

MacinJosh said:

What's a good range for split Ash to burn? I have several stacks that have been drying for almost a year and are reading between 18-21% on the ends. I'm using this meter. Thanks!


Dr.Meter MD-812 LCD Display Digital Wood Moisture Meter for Wood, Sheetrock, Carpets and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008V6I840/?tag=hearthamazon-20

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when you say you r are reading "at the ends' are you reading the cut face at the end or are you splitting and reading on the freshly split face?

the meter reading will not be accurate on the surfaces that have been exposed need to expose new surface to test.

18% to 21% on the cut ends would make me think its will be higher in the center. that meter will work well if you split the piece and test in the center of the new exposed face and also an inch or two in from the ends the average the 3 readings as I explained above. if the average is 18-21 percent its plenty dry enough to use, once you get up to 25% or higher you are starting to get a little wetter than optimal but still somewhat usable, over 28% I would not burn

stoveguy2esw said:

when you say you r are reading "at the ends' are you reading the cut face at the end or are you splitting and reading on the freshly split face?

the meter reading will not be accurate on the surfaces that have been exposed need to expose new surface to test.

18% to 21% on the cut ends would make me think its will be higher in the center. that meter will work well if you split the piece and test in the center of the new exposed face and also an inch or two in from the ends the average the 3 readings as I explained above. if the average is 18-21 percent its plenty dry enough to use, once you get up to 25% or higher you are starting to get a little wetter than optimal but still somewhat usable, over 28% I would not burn

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Thanks. Those are seasoned splits from rounds that have been sitting a year. Sounds like if I just get my axe out and split one I should be able to get an accurate reading from the new face. Thanks for the tip. Plenty of air exposure but I just have the stacks tarped above. Not ideal but I don't have the time to build a nice wood shack right now. Been on my list for awhile. Maybe one day.