Selkirk Pipe

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IHMan

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Oct 21, 2010
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I will be installing stove pipe through a sloped roof and I pruchased
a Selkirk Roof Kit which comes with a dripless adapter to convert from Double wall
insulated pipe to single wall pipe/ Since I'm cheap and I'll need to get below the
bottom of the rafter by 18" forsingle wall. Is a short lenght of Selkirk DSP double wall cheaper
than the insulated pipe? Or do I need an adapter as well to join the two together, offsetting any savings?
 
begreen said:
Normally single and double wall stove pipe are not combined in the same run. Perhaps pipe shield can be attached to that area. How close is the rafter?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZQR3Q/?tag=hearthamazon-20
Click to expand...
You rock. I was worried about only having 16 inches of clearance between the horizontal single wall pipe and the ceiling. I was thinking I would need to go buy 3 to 2 and 2 to 1 wall adapters elbows and a short double wall to fit. This will work perfectly for the horizontal piece if they make a smaller shield to fit :) I think it's only around 10-12 inches

It's a 3 wall class A coming from the wall, about 2-3 inches protruding connecting to a 3 to 1 wall adapter....than a short 1 wall into the elbow.

76951b8b737cae3f3a30f7ed78b80d31.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 
If it's 16"s from the horizontal piece to the ceiling how far is the vertical pipe from the backwall?
 
I know it's been mentioned lots but this seems like a good place to re-iterate. The performance of double wall connecting pipe vs single wall is not even comparable. Double wall accumulates way less soot/creosote. As well as it will outlast single wall pipe in definetly, and the greatly reduced clearances.

Don't get me wrong. Single wall works and as long as you meet the clearances and clean regularly it's a fine pipe. I have single wall on my stove, but when it's day has come I'll definetly go double wall and be done with it.
 
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In my last house I had single wall up to the ceiling above (which was the second floor floor, then double wall through that room and up to the roof. Additional heat came from the single wall in the first floor run. Very little creosote as the single wall was in a warm space. Mansfield straight up.
 
Well each system is different but if you're drawing your heat off single wall connecting pipe that is exhaust velocity that is being lost. So it is likely leading to more deposits further up your flue if you're not seeing them in the single wall. And yes vetical or lightly offset single wall will stay clean if you're burning properly. But horizontal runs are where you'll really see the difference in build up between single wall vs double wall and whether it's in a warm space or not won't matter.
 
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Rearscreen said:
In my last house I had single wall up to the ceiling above (which was the second floor floor, then double wall through that room and up to the roof. Additional heat came from the single wall in the first floor run. Very little creosote as the single wall was in a warm space. Mansfield straight up.
Click to expand...

I'll assume you mean double wall class A chImney through the upper floor and not double wall connecting pipe.

Irregardless I would maintain that your system overall would've drawn better and stayed cleaner with double wall connecting pipe instead of single wall. The heat is meant to come off the appliance, not the pipe.
 
Rearscreen said:
In my last house I had single wall up to the ceiling above (which was the second floor floor, then double wall through that room and up to the roof. Additional heat came from the single wall in the first floor run. Very little creosote as the single wall was in a warm space. Mansfield straight up.
Click to expand...
That's because Hearthstone stoves dump a tremendous amount of heat in the flue. Soapstone can only release a certain amount of heat, it's the nature of the stone: the rest is sent up the flue..
 
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begreen said:
Normally single and double wall stove pipe are not combined in the same run. Perhaps pipe shield can be attached to that area. How close is the rafter?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZQR3Q/?tag=hearthamazon-20
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. Not sure yet, I guess its 2, 2.5' from the underside of the roof penetration
to get below the ceiling joists by minimun code in order to use single wall pipe to the stove. Its strictly a cost saving measure.
All vertical with no offsets. Double Wall pipe would work, as the off set is only 6" but is it necessary to use it all the way
to the stove?
 
Normally the stove pipe is one type. There are benefits besides closer clearance to using double-wall pipe. It lasts longer and keeps the flue gases hotter which helps draft and a cleaner flue system.
 
IHMan said:
Thanks for the reply. Not sure yet, I guess its 2, 2.5' from the underside of the roof penetration
to get below the ceiling joists by minimun code in order to use single wall pipe to the stove. Its strictly a cost saving measure.
All vertical with no offsets. Double Wall pipe would work, as the off set is only 6" but is it necessary to use it all the way
to the stove?
Click to expand...
You can't switch types of connector pipe, it's either all double wall or single wall. In this instance a pipe shield to protect the area in question would be the way to go.
 
Looking good. Is this an apartment building?
 
I appreciate the will to heat with wood. But it looks tight to me. You mentioned being short of clearance on the top and ignored my question about the back wall in this thread. You also mentioned being shy on side clearance to the chase in another thread. I'm not trying to hound you but it's one thing to make the decision to cut those corners for yourself, but you have attached residences there too.

I hate to rain on your parade but some simple things like shielding or double wall pipe and moving the chase or cushions slightly could bring you into compliance.

Btw. I too think the stove looks great. Looks like a nice big firebox and should be a capable heater.
 
Squisher said:
I appreciate the will to heat with wood. But it looks tight to me. You mentioned being short of clearance on the top and ignored my question about the back wall in this thread. You also mentioned being shy on side clearance to the chase in another thread. I'm not trying to hound you but it's one thing to make the decision to cut those corners for yourself, but you have attached residences there too.

I hate to rain on your parade but some simple things like shielding or double wall pipe and moving the chase or cushions slightly could bring you into compliance.

Btw. I too think the stove looks great. Looks like a nice big firebox and should be a capable heater.
Click to expand...
I am also curious. I don't see any shielding or double wall pipe in the picture.
 
Tripple wall class a through the wall. 20 inches from the rear to the single wall. Only spot tight on clearance is the ceiling to the 8-10 inches of horizontal single wall. Plenty of space otherwise.

The rear of the unit is 10 inches from the wall ( min 7.5 according to the manual and the rear is literally touchable under a load ). This is a low clearance unit.

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wayne.nestor said:
Tripple wall class a through the wall. 20 inches from the rear to the single wall. Only spot tight on clearance is the ceiling to the 8-10 inches of horizontal single wall. Plenty of space otherwise.

The rear of the unit is 10 inches from the wall ( min 7.5 according to the manual and the rear is literally touchable under a load ). This is a low clearance unit.

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Click to expand...
Did you shield the 8-10" of single wall or did you adapt some double wall?
 
wayne.nestor said:
Tripple wall class a through the wall. 20 inches from the rear to the single wall. Only spot tight on clearance is the ceiling to the 8-10 inches of horizontal single wall. Plenty of space otherwise.

The rear of the unit is 10 inches from the wall ( min 7.5 according to the manual and the rear is literally touchable under a load ). This is a low clearance unit.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I'm curious of this clearance listing from the Madison/smartstove manual. They list single wall connector pipe as 12" from combustibles it appears to me?

Also they list it as 12"s to the collar at 7.5"s to the rear of the unit. Which only would equal 14.5"s at 10"s to the rear of the unit?

Am I reading this wrong? How can they list single wall connecting pipe as 12"s to combustible?

IMG_1110.PNG
IMG_1111.PNG IMG_1110.PNG
 
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Couch is warm to the touch but I sat there all evening ( granted it was pretty warm there.... but I like it warm lol ). The Madison has good clearance specs all the way around. I didn't run double wall for the horizontal run. The single wall isn't creating a lot of heat on the ceiling likely because It's such a short run. Besides, Canada says single wall is good to 14" of clearance [emoji14]

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I'm cruising at 400 stove top temp. It's about 80-85 on My first floor and 70 -75 on my 2nd floor. Still better than the gas furnace!

It's in the 40's currently in Baltimore Maryland

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My guess is if Wayne measured his as 20.5"s from the wall to the closest part of the single wall that the manual is wrong then and that 12 should be a 18?
 
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Squisher said:
My guess is if Wayne measured his as 20.5"s from the wall to the closest part of the single wall that the manual is wrong then and that 12 should be a 18?
Click to expand...
That would be Correct. The only part I was concerned with was the horizontal run but I could easily fix it with a shield or a double wall run.

I wonder why Canadian specs day 14" to single wall is safe ?

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