Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...

Ok so if you 3-4 hours and want to insulate you tundra here's the how to:
DEI high temp spray adhesive
Aluminum tape
Cool it 72x48 Thermal blanket can be had on Amazon. It's enough to insulate both sides and top. Cut it in half 36inches and then cut it to 38 inches. Save your left overs for the top. Don't forget to trim away from the damper control rod. I also removed the screws and heat shield before spraying and installing the blanket. I then reinstalled the heat shield and all the screws. I will post my temp differences once I start a fire.

Fire started: here's the data...

Fans kicked on in 8 minutes. I set the timer to 20 minutes. The top of the furnace was warm to the touch just prior to the fans kicking on. I grabbed my IR gun and took these measurements. The outside insulated case is measuring 84-86 degrees fan running on 2. The front face is at 450 degrees damper closed. The uninsulated section in the rear of the furnace is measuring about 114-118 degrees. So the insulation blanket is making a pretty big difference. It heated up pretty darn fast! Oh and draft was about .07. Duct outlet temp is about 120-125.

If it gets up to .09 now, wait till it gets cold out with a hot fire. I believe a bd is a must have, good protection too. .09 is 50% more than SBI recommends isn't it.

crewchief264 said:

Ok so if you 3-4 hours and want to insulate you tundra here's the how to:
DEI high temp spray adhesive
Aluminum tape
Cool it 72x48 Thermal blanket can be had on Amazon. It's enough to insulate both sides and top. Cut it in half 36inches and then cut it to 38 inches. Save your left overs for the top. Don't forget to trim away from the damper control rod. I also removed the screws and heat shield before spraying and installing the blanket. I then reinstalled the heat shield and all the screws. I will post my temp differences once I start a fire.

Fire started: here's the data...

Fans kicked on in 8 minutes. I set the timer to 20 minutes. The top of the furnace was warm to the touch just prior to the fans kicking on. I grabbed my IR gun and took these measurements. The outside insulated case is measuring 84-86 degrees fan running on 2. The front face is at 450 degrees damper closed. The uninsulated section in the rear of the furnace is measuring about 114-118 degrees. So the insulation blanket is making a pretty big difference. It heated up pretty darn fast! Oh and draft was about .07. Duct outlet temp is about 120-125.

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Nice, I bet that will help a lot. My unit came insulated, so they aren't doing it for no reason. They should put these results in the sticky thread thing.

Well I was able to fish liner in today what a pain the 6 inch liner did not fit through damn 6 inch round clay to chimney. What a pain but hopefully Tomm I'll have it all tied in. If I still have condensation issues I'll be pissed next step I guess would be insulate outside of chimney and insulate hopefully not or mod stove for hotter temp which I don't wanna do

I got it through but I had to remove round clay 6inch thimble. It's in concrete so I'll just finish it but leave a way to get in there if I need to do anything with liner. The tee from liner kit would not fit so my clean out will be in stove pipe before exiting chimney using a tee and cap

Looking for input on how I should tie my furnace into the chimney.

Would a 90 degree elbow and a 90 degree cleanout be preferred, or how about 2 45 degree angles? I realize the 45's will be better from a flow standpoint, but they won't be as easy to install or remove in order to clean out.

Its an interior chimney that goes up through the center of the house.
8x12 clay lined (I know I know!! Lol ),

I don't have a height measurement yet but it goes up through the center of the 2 story house and exits above the peak of the roof.

2 45's and a bd.

I'll go back and check the manual, but is there any reason I can't use double wall pipe?

Why would you want to? Single wall is not going to get that hot.

@TDD11 ,
FWIW I have two 45's and this weekend I'm redoing it to two 90's. It's been a complete PITA to get on/off each spring to clean. I have plenty of draft with a 37' lined chimney, so I'm not worried about inadequate draft. Not sure if you have that advantage though. There also might be an easier way to get it off for cleaning, but I haven't found it yet.

I've seen on here that there are telescoping stove pipes to help in this situation, but I've never seen one or know how well it would work. Someone smarter on here probably does, though.

I have a cleanout T on the back of my boiler, another on bottom of chimney. Never take any pipe apart, just pop a clean out cover off & I'm there. The baro flapper is another easy access point. So I guess my point is, a cleanout T in place of an elbow can make life a lot easier.

@STIHLY DAN My thought is that with double wall (or insulating single wall) I can increase my flue temps and get more heat up the chimney. Make up for having an over sized chimney.

@DoubleB That is exactly my concern with two 45's, the cleaning difficulty. I am interested to hear more about your chimney and get an idea of how it compares to mine. So far I am expecting poor results but I might as well try and find out.

@maple1 I was considering putting a cleanout T in place of the elbow also.

DoubleB said:

@TDD11 ,
FWIW I have two 45's and this weekend I'm redoing it to two 90's. It's been a complete PITA to get on/off each spring to clean. I have plenty of draft with a 37' lined chimney, so I'm not worried about inadequate draft. Not sure if you have that advantage though. There also might be an easier way to get it off for cleaning, but I haven't found it yet.

I've seen on here that there are telescoping stove pipes to help in this situation, but I've never seen one or know how well it would work. Someone smarter on here probably does, though.

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What is it such a PITA with 2 45's? Is yours double wall? Just curious, I have that and its pretty easy. I have done my share of PITA ones though. Seems like the short ones tend to be the worst.

DoubleB said:

@TDD11 ,
I've seen on here that there are telescoping stove pipes to help in this situation, but I've never seen one or know how well it would work. Someone smarter on here probably does, though.

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I have two telescoping connections with two 45's on my stove pipe. It's a piece of cake to remove and put back together. The pipe is made by ICC/Excel Ultrablack.

http://icc-chimney.com/en/ultrablack

Edit, one of my slip connectors is double (Ultrablack), the other is single (Prime)

http://icc-chimney.com/en/excelprime

TDD11 said:

My thought is that with double wall (or insulating single wall) I can increase my flue temps and get more heat up the chimney. Make up for having an over sized chimney.

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So you are not putting in a Bd?

Thanks for the telescoping info, @JRHAWK9 and @brenndatomu .

@TDD11 ,
You can kind of see my (former) chimney pipe in post#22 back on page 1. Straight out the rear of the furnace, slant up and to the right, then slant hard right into the thimble.

Actually I was planning on doing what @maple1 has with a cleanout tee at the bottom of my first elbow, but then I didn't because I figured I'd still want to take it apart to clean the upper elbow. Plus, I already had the parts to just make 90 elbows, but I didn't have a tee or a cap. Plus, I would have a few crimped ends pointing the wrong direction. I know, nothing hard to solve, but I take the chimney connector off anyways in the spring so I can cap the chimney inside and avoid sucking humid air into the house in the summer. And, if the 90 elbows get annoying to take off, I can always try a cleanout tee later.

STIHLY DAN said:

What is it such a PITA with 2 45's? Is yours double wall? Just curious, I have that and its pretty easy. I have done my share of PITA ones though. Seems like the short ones tend to be the worst.

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Mine isn't too short, so at least that's helpful. But I just have a hard time twisting the elbows enough to make the overall length 1.5" shorter so I can pull it out of the crimped end. I've disassembled/assembled a few times now and I haven't gotten any better at it. Mine is just single wall.

You have a lot more experience than I do for sure--have you noticed any difference between the 45 deg config in post 1758 (straight back, then slant up, then straight back, everything is in the same plane) and my config (straight back, slant up/right, then slant straight right)? Maybe one is easier or harder if it's all in the same plane? Dunno.

Hey all, got the Tundra installed this week. Thanks for all the helpful posts! This thing def has a learning curve to it. Puts out great heat for long amounts of time with less wood.Sbi sent me the firebrick mod which was nice, would have never known about it if it weren't for this blog. Averaging about 40 in central Ohio so I haven't cranked her up yet. Ran the wife and kids out of the house with fumes from paint on the first burn, not allowed to go full bore until they get away for a couple hours. Have about 6' of single wall before it hits my chimney, then a 7" ss liner inside 10x10 clay for about 25'. No bd, have a manual damper just in case. Run her up to about 450 on the flue with an internal thermometer, 350 on magnetic thermometer on front of heat exchanger before I close the damper on stove. Flue runs at -.10 with stove damper wide open. Flue drops to 150 degrees, heat exchanger 200 and -.03 on the manometer with stove damper closed. Flames don't last more than 30 mins after damper is closed. Burning two year old ash with about 15% moisture. 5 logs fill up the firebox, might need to be split smaller. Also having an issue with condensation dripping from pipe, only 2 days into burning. Had good amount of coals after 12 hrs which was nice. What's your thoughts?

Digger79 said:

It is. Currently kicking butt. It runs much cooler. Fan comes on much sooner, Over heat shut off comes on before flu hits 800. Its a fine stove. they tuned it in well. Very happy with it and SBI. Blows some cooler air since fan comes on so early and stays on so long however in the end its pushing more heat in the house that wood just dissipate around the stove.

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The low temp fan trigger is best for me as my stove is in the garage. I'd rather push the mild air into the house when stove is only warm rather than just waist it. The garage doesn't need anymore heat than the stove already puts off. To me Im getting every ounce of heat blown into the house even if the air is not hot.

Gibbo1979 said:

Hey all, got the Tundra installed this week. Thanks for all the helpful posts! This thing def has a learning curve to it. Puts out great heat for long amounts of time with less wood.Sbi sent me the firebrick mod which was nice, would have never known about it if it weren't for this blog. Averaging about 40 in central Ohio so I haven't cranked her up yet. Ran the wife and kids out of the house with fumes from paint on the first burn, not allowed to go full bore until they get away for a couple hours. Have about 6' of single wall before it hits my chimney, then a 7" ss liner inside 10x10 clay for about 25'. No bd, have a manual damper just in case. Run her up to about 450 on the flue with an internal thermometer, 350 on magnetic thermometer on front of heat exchanger before I close the damper on stove. Flue runs at -.10 with stove damper wide open. Flue drops to 150 degrees, heat exchanger 200 and -.03 on the manometer with stove damper closed. Flames don't last more than 30 mins after damper is closed. Burning two year old ash with about 15% moisture. 5 logs fill up the firebox, might need to be split smaller. Also having an issue with condensation dripping from pipe, only 2 days into burning. Had good amount of coals after 12 hrs which was nice. What's your thoughts?

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hmm. I had issues with creosote oils dripping too but was due to damper door controller not being dialed in properly. A temp controller making sure the main air intake opens if flu gets below 300 deg should stop the oils dripping. Sounds like you got the rest correct. The manual damper is no good I'd take that out you don't need it and it causes blockage even if wide open. A manual damper can certainly cause excessive creosote. The flu needs to get up around 600-700 before the damper should be closed. My controller opens and closes the damper roughly 3 times allowing the flu temps to eventual stabilize around 450 then after 3 cycles it holds temp and re burns for hours. It could be you are not letting the fire get hot enough before damper is closing. that def causes creosote problems. With the current models due to the over heat snap switch you can put the stove on automatic leaving damper bypass open and the high limit switch will shut it but you won't have control over keeping it shut so the temp controller is best. I hope that made sense I rambled it out pretty quick. Gotta go to work. bye

Digger79 said:

hmm. I had issues with creosote oils dripping too but was due to damper door controller not being dialed in properly. A temp controller making sure the main air intake opens if flu gets below 300 deg should stop the oils dripping. Sounds like you got the rest correct. The manual damper is no good I'd take that out you don't need it and it causes blockage even if wide open. A manual damper can certainly cause excessive creosote. The flu needs to get up around 600-700 before the damper should be closed. My controller opens and closes the damper roughly 3 times allowing the flu temps to eventual stabilize around 450 then after 3 cycles it holds temp and re burns for hours. It could be you are not letting the fire get hot enough before damper is closing. that def causes creosote problems. With the current models due to the over heat snap switch you can put the stove on automatic leaving damper bypass open and the high limit switch will shut it but you won't have control over keeping it shut so the temp controller is best. I hope that made sense I rambled it out pretty quick. Gotta go to work. bye

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I do have a baro damper installed but it only comes into play when temps outside get down in the teens, single digits or negative numbers. During negative temps if I did not have the baro damper in their the flu does over draft. Anything over -.09 or -.10 is over draft and best to keep draft around -.06 to -.08

The baro damper set properly will prevent over drafting and not block the flu like a manual damper.