There is an area in the middle of the door that stays milky even when I clean with glass cleaner. Is there any way to get rid of this and am I doing something wrong.
can't get glass door clean
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Try using a damp rag dipped in the ashes from the stove.
That generally works.
If the glass is TOO etched, try some Auto Body Rubbing Compound.
That generally works.
If the glass is TOO etched, try some Auto Body Rubbing Compound.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
I've found that I can clean my stove glass the same way I wash my car (leave it alone, and the weather will clean it for you). 
wildbill7145
Member
My first post on this forum. I'm with Daksy and I'd second the suggestion of damp rag with ashes from the wood stove. First year we had ours, I was using the spray on chemical stuff. It was horrible. Corrosive. Had to mask off everything you didn't want this stuff to get on.
An older guy told me about the ash trick. Worked like a charm.
An older guy told me about the ash trick. Worked like a charm.
VirginiaIron
Minister of Fire
I seem to recall the QuadraFire 3100i manual addressing this condition. Recommended non abrasive glass cleaner. Heavier deposits can be cleaned with damp cloth dipped in wood ash, or using a commercial oven cleaner (will permanently stain glass if not completely removed before firing). If using oven cleaner, wash with glass cleaner or soap and water and remove from painted/plated surfaces, if applicable.
I recall reading somewhere that cloudy glass was also due to over firing.
I recall reading somewhere that cloudy glass was also due to over firing.
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Squisher
Minister of Fire
Wet rag or paper towel dipped in the ashes is how I clean my glass. Easy, effective, and cheap.
Wet the rag dip and wipe the glass and finish with a clean rag to wipe off the 'smears' before they dry.
This is all obviously done when the stove/glass is cool and not in use.
Wet the rag dip and wipe the glass and finish with a clean rag to wipe off the 'smears' before they dry.
This is all obviously done when the stove/glass is cool and not in use.
KindredSpiritzz
Minister of Fire
Razor blade and a damp paper towel ( dipped in ash first then a clean one to wipe it down with ).
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
Milky stove glass could have another cause. Was an abrasive cleaner used in that area at one time? Or was there a hot ash deposit there due to wood being too close to the glass?
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/wood-stove-glass-is-cloudy-even-when-clean.99074/
I haven't tried either of these approaches. Be sure to check with the stove mfg. first to see if there is an IR coating on the glass first.
https://permies.com/t/32548/method-restore-permanently-etched-fireplace
https://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove-glass-discolouration.html
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/wood-stove-glass-is-cloudy-even-when-clean.99074/
I haven't tried either of these approaches. Be sure to check with the stove mfg. first to see if there is an IR coating on the glass first.
https://permies.com/t/32548/method-restore-permanently-etched-fireplace
https://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove-glass-discolouration.html
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baysideburner
Member
Or just toss it in The fire if you clean it when HOT like I do lol
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baysideburner
Member
Thats exactly what I do I just didnt want to spark a huge debate about throwing a wet item in a hot fire lowering temps and blah blah blah
Squisher
Minister of Fire
baysideburner
Member
Not piping hot u could crack the ceramic. I usually do it when coal bed is real low leave door open for a few minutes to cool it down then do it. U get a little hissing but u will learn just like anything when its the right temp juat from trial and error.
Squisher
Minister of Fire
I rarely have to clean my glass. I just did it for the first time this season on the summit. PE's stay super clean. I just time it when the stove is cool. No biggie when you only have to do it a few times a season.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
cableman
Minister of Fire
Hello, I have an Alderlea T5 as well and I have had one instance where my stove did exactly as you describe, the dull white spot was in the center of my glass as you describe. I simply cleaned it when cool with a microfiber cloth and cleaner. Never had it happen since. Because you are seeing this issue repeatedly, I recommend using a microfiber if you haven't yet. The reason being that you may be leaving slight residue on the glass allowing it to repeat itself. Microfibers are really good at getting glass very clean.
Thanks for all the replies--I am thinking Hogwildz and BeGreen may have hit on the problem. Tried the ash trick but seems like that might just be a substitute for plain water or glass cleaner. I have no problem cleaning even gooey black or brown stuff that gets on there once in a while--but this looks more like it is in the glass--like when the seal in a double pane breaks and it get cloudy.
So if it is from overfiring that brings up a very different question--balancing full loads and risk of overfilling. Here is the situation-- I have an Alderlea T5 which can fit quite a bit of wood. I also know that I have a very good draft up my (single layer )pipe which probably hits the roof at about 20 feet. I have a Chimguard chimney thermometer which I keep about 2 feet or so above the stove. When I fill up the stove and fire it up, it can quickly shoot up to the top of the red area--it is only marked to 700 degrees so I have no idea how hot that is. If I open the door for a few minutes that will bring it down, otherwise it can stay up there for some minutes before it starts slowly coming down, even when I start closing down the damper which I do as soon as I can. Sometimes it does this (tho maybe not quite so extreme) even if I load say, 7 splits with air space in between and even if I am starting it from cold. So I have been pretty cautious about filling it tho I would like to do so on very cold days or so I can have coals when I wake up after 8 hours.
I am not sure if this is because of the wood. I have all hard wood--mostly ash, maple, oak combo--which I have seasoned 2-3 summers from green and not all of it is as dry as i would like--and some hardwood kiln dried which I mix in.
So if it is from overfiring that brings up a very different question--balancing full loads and risk of overfilling. Here is the situation-- I have an Alderlea T5 which can fit quite a bit of wood. I also know that I have a very good draft up my (single layer )pipe which probably hits the roof at about 20 feet. I have a Chimguard chimney thermometer which I keep about 2 feet or so above the stove. When I fill up the stove and fire it up, it can quickly shoot up to the top of the red area--it is only marked to 700 degrees so I have no idea how hot that is. If I open the door for a few minutes that will bring it down, otherwise it can stay up there for some minutes before it starts slowly coming down, even when I start closing down the damper which I do as soon as I can. Sometimes it does this (tho maybe not quite so extreme) even if I load say, 7 splits with air space in between and even if I am starting it from cold. So I have been pretty cautious about filling it tho I would like to do so on very cold days or so I can have coals when I wake up after 8 hours.
I am not sure if this is because of the wood. I have all hard wood--mostly ash, maple, oak combo--which I have seasoned 2-3 summers from green and not all of it is as dry as i would like--and some hardwood kiln dried which I mix in.
If etched you may be able to polish it out as linked in my post above
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/cant-get-glass-door-clean.158808/#post-2129972
These were really helpful. My glass is NOWHERE as bad as the stove in the video--in fact you have to look carefully to see it--but I think I will be more vigilant about pushing the ash back when I reload. I have seen a lot of ash flying around in there lately.
Sprinter
Minister of Fire
FWIW, I've heard that ammonia based glass cleaners can cause that kind of thing after a while. Once you get it all straightened out, go for the damp microfiber cloth dipped in the white ash. Or Rutland cleaner if you want to try that.
Regarding the "Magic Erasers", I believe that they are a malamine sponge and are abrasive. Whether they are abrasive enough to damage this kind of ceramic glass over time, I don't know but at least be careful with it. Otherwise, they can be a great general cleaner if you don't use it on certain things.
Regarding the "Magic Erasers", I believe that they are a malamine sponge and are abrasive. Whether they are abrasive enough to damage this kind of ceramic glass over time, I don't know but at least be careful with it. Otherwise, they can be a great general cleaner if you don't use it on certain things.
WES999
Minister of Fire
If your glass looks like this:
The only thing that will likely clean it, is to polish it with cerium oxide.
I used a angle grinder with a 3" pad. Best to do it outside as it is a bit messy.
You don't have to remove the glass from the door, just cover the gasket with masking tape.
Be patient, as it will probably take 30-45 minutes remove all the haze.
The only thing that will likely clean it, is to polish it with cerium oxide.
I used a angle grinder with a 3" pad. Best to do it outside as it is a bit messy.
You don't have to remove the glass from the door, just cover the gasket with masking tape.
Be patient, as it will probably take 30-45 minutes remove all the haze.
Sprinter
Minister of Fire
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