New toy!

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webby3650 said:
That's why I ended up at Kioti, the dealer is only about 10 miles away and was very friendly and helpful. Unlike the Deere dealer who completely ignored me...
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Deere earned its name when and reputation when there was less competition.

Personally, I have all metric motorized toys, cars and tools. I hate going to standard to work on something.

I will say this...a previous company of mine supplied parts to Deere, and they were very big sticklers on quality. That's a good thing.
 
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sportbikerider78 said:
Deere earned its name when and reputation when there was less competition.

Personally, I have all metric motorized toys, cars and tools. I hate going to standard to work on something.

I will say this...a previous company of mine supplied parts to Deere, and they were very big sticklers on quality. That's a good thing.
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Deere doesn't make the tractors under 75 horse. Yanmar makes them, John Deere distributes them. All compact tractors are foreign..
 
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JD 4600 in my avatar is actually a year 1999, 43 hp, 4-cylinder Yanmar. It's been flawless, and I'd consider one again if I got a good deal.
 
kennyp2339 said:
Not trying to hijack this thread but when you start shopping around look for something that is at or greater than 30 Hp and 4x4. I made the mistake last year of buying a 25hp and it took me a year to get out of denial, resell it and buy a 40hp one, also if hydrostatic trans isn't in your budget look for one with a shuttle shift that can be shifted using gears while in motion, some of the cheaper units provide gear shift but you have to pick your gear while in the stopped position, and if you want to go faster then you have to stop again and select the next highest gear.
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Another common mistake I've seen is that folks pay attention to engine horsepower and not other power specs like rear PTO horsepower. I advise prospective buyers to think backwards starting with the tasks they need to accomplish to determine what tractor is needed.

For example, the size of your field determines what size of cutting implement you'd be happiest running. In turn, the implement size has a PTO horsepower operating range. Make sure the tractor that has more than enough rear PTO hp to run that implement and others on the wish list. The same goes for hydraulic flow rate to run hydraulic attachments/implements (this is not as difficult to work around, however, with something like a PTO pump).
 
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webby3650 said:
It is a quick attach front end. The front loader will pick up 2900 lbs.
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I wonder why Kioti doesn't rate their loaders 20-24" out from the pivot pins? If it will actually pickup 2900# you better have some weight on the rear. Kioti's literature says 2660# at the pivot pins which is right at the pivot pins in the front part of the loader frame. Once you get weight on a pallet about 2-3' out from the pivot pins it changes everything. We call it the 'the pucker factor', when you push one to the limit.

Nice looking tractor and I'm sure it serve you well. I think you'll like the R4 tires, they have a much higher load rating than R1's.
 
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webby3650 said:
Deere doesn't make the tractors under 75 horse. Yanmar makes them, John Deere distributes them. All compact tractors are foreign..
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Yanmar makes the engines and many of the other components for the 1000-4000 series, pretty much all the drivetrain. The 5000D series are built in a JD factory in India which range currently from 38-50hp. The 5000E series which ranges 45-100hp are also built in India by JD. The current 5000M series, that now starts at 75hp, are assembled in Georgia. Now comes the part that bothers a lot of people when you tell them where the parts come from. My son has a 5065M cab tractor, the engine is from Mexico, the transmission is from China, the hydraulics are from Brazil and the front axle is from India. The only thing we've found made in the USA on his 5065M are the tires, the cab and Grammar seat. His 5065M has a 3.0L 5 cyl. and I have to say it's not given any trouble as of yet and has over 800 hours on it, it's a Tier 3 emissions tractor.
 
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Grateful11 said:
I wonder why Kioti doesn't rate their loaders 20-24" out from the pivot pins? If it will actually pickup 2900# you better have some weight on the rear. Kioti's literature says 2660# at the pivot pins which is right at the pivot pins in the front part of the loader frame. Once you get weight on a pallet about 2-3' out from the pivot pins it changes everything. We call it the 'the pucker factor', when you push one to the limit.

Nice looking tractor and I'm sure it serve you well. I think you'll like the R4 tires, they have a much higher load rating than R1's.
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It won't safely move a bucket full of dirt without some weight on the back. I know it will move the skid full of firewood, I'll just need to make sure I've got my weight on the back.
 
Loading the front end big, then compensating by loading up the rear end - is awfully hard on the front end running gear and axles on tractors. Especially if you travel much with all that weight on it.
 
maple1 said:
Loading the front end big, then compensating by loading up the rear end - is awfully hard on the front end running gear and axles on tractors. Especially if you travel much with all that weight on it.
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No, not really. It's designed to work hard. That's its job. Besides, it's the only safe way to work with a front loader.
 
Look at getting the tires filled with beet juice I have a 40 hp mahindra and rim guard dealer had me at about $380 for both tires filled and service call. About 39 gallons each tire I was told. A grapple is a great way to spend some money makes the tractor that much more useful, I purchased mine from everything attachments they are very helpful. I also have a 6 foot finish mower and a 6 foot box scraper I keep on the back for added weight. The tractors today are to strong for their weight. A ballast box will help but then your three point is taken up. I have a buddy with a 50 hp kubota that has his tires filled with the beet juice and he had no issues with the rear end lifting off the ground when lifting heavy loads plus he has better tire traction. Anyways nice looking machine once you have a tractor you will wonder how you did the thing you used to without it, a great piece of equipement to have!
 
heavy hammer said:
Look at getting the tires filled with beet juice I have a 40 hp mahindra and rim guard dealer had me at about $380 for both tires filled and service call. About 39 gallons each tire I was told. A grapple is a great way to spend some money makes the tractor that much more useful, I purchased mine from everything attachments they are very helpful. I also have a 6 foot finish mower and a 6 foot box scraper I keep on the back for added weight. The tractors today are to strong for their weight. A ballast box will help but then your three point is taken up. I have a buddy with a 50 hp kubota that has his tires filled with the beet juice and he had no issues with the rear end lifting off the ground when lifting heavy loads plus he has better tire traction. Anyways nice looking machine once you have a tractor you will wonder how you did the thing you used to without it, a great piece of equipement to have!
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Around here they fill them with windshield washer fluid. Only costs about $150 for both tires. I just gotta get the tractor in town to get it done.
 
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webby3650 said:
It won't safely move a bucket full of dirt without some weight on the back. I know it will move the skid full of firewood, I'll just need to make sure I've got my weight on the back.
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I tested my Chinese 35hp by putting the forks on the bucket and picking up the back of my Chevy 3500 van. Science project.
 
My firehouse just started there part 3 of a back yard patio / bbq pit makeover, living only 3 min away from the department I was able to get nearly 20 yards (4) single axles of dirt / clay fill yesterday, I got about 15 yards spread out. I'm going to finish up leveling off the yard this afternoon, get some seed on it and let mother nature take care of the rest.
This is one of the reasons why its nice owning a machine, I'm able to level off a patch of the backyard for a woodshed and horse shoe pit.
 
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Just putting some general info out there:

One thing I've always emphasized with the operators that help my son, he farms full-time, is if you're running large loads on the front end loader, put it in 4wd. If you start going down any grade and the rear end unweights and you're in 2wd you will have no brakes at all. The only to stop it would be to drop the loader until it hits the ground, not a good position to be in. When in 4wd you will send braking power to the front tries. Some of the larger newer tractors can send braking to the front without having it in 4wd, I believe I read that somewhere.
 
Grateful11 said:
Just putting some general info out there:

One thing I've always emphasized with the operators that help my son, he farms full-time, is if you're running large loads on the front end loader, put it in 4wd. If you start going down any grade and the rear end unweights and you're in 2wd you will have no brakes at all. The only to stop it would be to drop the loader until it hits the ground, not a good position to be in. When in 4wd you will send braking power to the front tries. Some of the larger newer tractors can send braking to the front without having it in 4wd, I believe I read that somewhere.
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Some have breaks on the front. Most just turn the fwa on when you use the breaks.
 
IMG_3970.JPG IMG_3965.JPG IMG_3968.JPG
 
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Dairyman said:
Some have breaks on the front. Most just turn the fwa on when you use the breaks.
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If the 4wd is turned on electronically it can but I can't see a tractor with manual mechanical engagement being able to do that, not saying that it can't but I know the L3940 and MX5100 doesn't. A buddy of mine has a JD 5115M that can engage and disengage the 4wd automatically in certain conditions if you set it to do so. All the rest of son's tractors are larger and 2wd and no loader.
 
Grateful11 said:
Just putting some general info out there:

One thing I've always emphasized with the operators that help my son, he farms full-time, is if you're running large loads on the front end loader, put it in 4wd. If you start going down any grade and the rear end unweights and you're in 2wd you will have no brakes at all. The only to stop it would be to drop the loader until it hits the ground, not a good position to be in. When in 4wd you will send braking power to the front tries. Some of the larger newer tractors can send braking to the front without having it in 4wd, I believe I read that somewhere.
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I agree. 4WD is a good idea.

I tell my operators that BBQ rules apply--low and slow. Keep the load low and drive slow. In addition, keep a hand on/near the FEL joystick. If things start going the wrong way or you get that uneasy feeling (that "pucker factor" mentioned above), put the load down!
 
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Like the tractor, it is so nice having one to process firewood. You thinking about getting a grapple? It is a great option for hauling wood logs I picked mine up from everything attachment, there wicked root grapple is awesome. Helps tremendously. What other attachments are you planing on getting? How many horse power at the PTO?
 
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heavy hammer said:
View attachment 199855 Like the tractor, it is so nice having one to process firewood. You thinking about getting a grapple? It is a great option for hauling wood logs I picked mine up from everything attachment, there wicked root grapple is awesome. Helps tremendously. What other attachments are you planing on getting? How many horse power at the PTO?
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I'm not sure at the PTO. Being 45 horse turbo charged I'd guess 38-40? Runs a 7' mower, that's enough for me!
Here I just drag the entire log up to my processing area and have at it, that has saved me a lot of time. So far I've got a yard box, 5' bush hog, 7' flail mower. Forks and the bucket of course.
 
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anyone ever use the rear lift attachment to get wood up and cut? the ones that look like a pole with different points, was wondering how well that works
 
jwfirebird said:
anyone ever use the rear lift attachment to get wood up and cut? the ones that look like a pole with different points, was wondering how well that works
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The 3 point would lift stuff just fine with proper rigging.
 
6EB83ACB-B1DC-4EDA-9988-E0A166C92A89.jpeg 83DB046A-DAE1-4A96-8EEB-D0FF1AF6D96F.jpeg 74103D81-1EEE-45E5-A9C9-DEFD3797BEA4.jpeg 137427FD-8421-4E38-9252-20D2CE901794.jpeg Bought a snow pusher this weekend, found an HLA 1500 6ft pusher on craigslist, used for 1 season at a very good price, when I inspected the pusher it had a few scratches in the paint, no dents and very little wear on the blade / box skids.
My main concern with purchasing this pusher was the short moldboard (20") I was afraid that in deeper snows, the snow would go up and over the pusher and it would be frustrating to do a clean up, I tend to be at work during all storms so it isn't out of the ordinary for me to come home to a driveway that has 2ft of snow sitting there.
The guy I bought the pusher from said it wasn't really a big deal to use in deeper snows, the snow gets pushed forward due to the angle of the moldboard. I ask why then was he getting rid of the unit and he said that the pusher setup just didn't work for his driveway since it was long, he would have to keep pulling off and empty the box, he bought the same hla brand just with the angle plow feature. So that was a relief.
Here are some pics and I will do a review on the unit after I get a snow greater than 6"
 
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