Wood Shed: over or under built.

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nathan125

Member
Nov 18, 2013
70
idaho
I have set posts for my wood shed. It is 20ft wide and 12ft long. Posts are 4x4 except for middle post is 4x6.
I put three rows of posts, total 9.
My question is for the header beam in particular. I have glue lam beams. 3inches thick and 11in wide. I would put beams across each row of posts. I will then secure 2x6 lumber on top for rafters and lay metal roofing.
I worry that the beams might be overkill. After this winter I saw many sheds topple and I dont want to have to rebuild the shed.
I attached a drawing of my idea, take mercy i am no Picasso, Any help is appreciated.
 

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If I understand correctly, I believe you could get away with a lot less of a header. That is a lot of unnecessary weight doing a job a 2x6 could do for what you plan. Especially with using 4x4 posts. I don't believe you will be gaining much. But that is just my opinion.
 
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I have set posts for my wood shed. It is 20ft wide and 12ft long. Posts are 4x4 except for middle post is 4x6.
I put three rows of posts, total 9.
My question is for the header beam in particular. I have glue lam beams. 3inches thick and 11in wide. I would put beams across each row of posts. I will then secure 2x6 lumber on top for rafters and lay metal roofing.
I worry that the beams might be overkill. After this winter I saw many sheds topple and I dont want to have to rebuild the shed.
I attached a drawing of my idea, take mercy i am no Picasso, Any help is appreciated.

Most toppled sheds are probably the result of inadequate cross-bracing. Those timbers are over kill if used properly but the structure could easily fail if not well designed/fastened. But nothing wrong with building something over kill if you have the materials just lying around.
 
Not knowing your level of carpentry skills, I'll add some information. The best materials engineered poorly will also fail. I would suggest notching the upper 4x4 posts to receive the header with a couple of bolts. A few well placed metal straps are also great .16011419172876.jpg
 
This is a better size to view. this is just where the front beam will be bolstered to the posts. there will be two additional beams also.
Some had said a 2x6 would be sufficient enough for a header beam. I plan on uses 2x lumber for the braces. I planned to fasten the beams with 1/2" 6" lag bolts.
woodshed..png
 
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I agree the 2x6 is plenty sufficient to hold up metal roofing. Use good triangular cross bracing and it will hold up for a lifetime. Lag bolts would work but so would two or three 3 1/2" galvanized nails at each fastening point.
 
This is a better size to view. this is just where the front beam will be bolstered to the posts. there will be two additional beams also.
Some had said a 2x6 would be sufficient enough for a header beam. I plan on uses 2x lumber for the braces. I planned to fasten the beams with 1/2" 6" lag bolts.View attachment 199285
If you lag and notch, you won't need the bracing above. 1/2" is over kill. 3/8 or 5/16 will be plenty.
 
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Lags are a PITA.

TimberLocs or HeadLocs and an impact driver makes life easy.
 
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IMG_0036.JPG IMG_0039.JPG IMG_0042.JPG
I'm also in the process of building a few of these, mine are 10ft long x 5ft wide, with the ability to stack just over 6ft vertical. I plan on building 5 of these to line the perimeter of my driveway. Each bin will hold about 2 cords when fully loaded.
One thing I learned and took into consideration is to only make them hold 3 rows deep, anything more, the center piles will have a hard time drying out, also knotching all the posts and running bracing really stiffens the structure up, makes it rock solid, I also ran a single 2x6 header with 2x4 rafters and it's very strong, it will take a 3ft heavy wet snow no problem
 
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I know notching would be better but i simply don't like the idea of hanging on a ladder and doing that...heights are not my favorite.
I have the 6" lag bolts left over from other projects. I have built this shed on a dime practically.
Use what you have, save a trip to the hardware store. Where I run into trouble is the cost of the metal roofing.
 
I think I am going to sheathe the rafters with some plywood sheets I acquired. I may not get around to adding metal roofing this winter to it. I will of course line the plywood with tar paper or something to water off of it.
 
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Tar paper won't last long unless you hold it down with a bunch of lathe or something. It doesn't hold up to wind well.

So make sure you do that until you can get your roof on.