Tractor size?

My suggestion of a skid steer (Bobcat) was an attempt to cover all options. The only two requirements mentioned early in this discussion were to move totes/pallets and snow removal, and a skid steer certainly excels at moving things on pallets. As mentioned earlier, a utility tractor shows its versatility because it also can better handle uneven fields and woods.

BTW, don't assume you have to buy new. That little tractor I showed in my "versatility" post was almost 30 years old, when I bought it. Deere is still making and selling parts for 50 year old machines, so why not? I bought it with the loader and a 72" mower deck for $8k, and put another $1k into it. So, under $10k for more than $30k worth of machine. I have all the money I need to have paid cash for a new one, without consideration, but I don't like throwing away $20k just to show neighbors I have the newest model.

At my usage rate around 100 hours per year, the old one is just as reliable, if not more so than some of the newer stuff. I seem to have more hassles with my new ZTrak, than my old 855.

Just a note older machines eng wise are much simpler no tier3 and 4 +computers to deal with. The latest JD stuff is so computerized that it has become dang near impossible to do much of anything on it yourself. On the other end of the scale the box store units are not any better than the rest of the bunch and , i as far as i can tell they are all using the same transaxel supplier, which in the under 2 grand price point for hydro has proven to be a problem if you have anything other than baseball field terrain wise.

Deere has a reputation for being the most expensive, and often times the msrp is indeed more than a competitors product. When I purchased my Deere 1025r tractor, loader, backhoe, mower deck, landscape rake and land leveler I priced out a comparable Kubota BX25 with all the same attachments and the Deere was @ $1,750 more.

I took the written kubota quote and laid it all out there for my Deere salesman, meet or beat the price or I will financially be forced to go orange. The Deere salesman grabbed his calculator and punched numbers in for a couple minutes and put his head up and said sure I can do that. My wife (who usually isn't a great negotiator) said that's great you met the kubota quote, but we liked some things about that tractor more, my husband needs a Stihl pole chainsaw will you throw one of those in if we sign today? The salesman swallowed hard and said I guess I could do that.

Full disclosure I like Deere, sure as a kid I played with green tractor toys, but to me the dealer network is vast and parts availability has always been good. I am not in defense of Deere 100% I have had my issues with warranty work, but I'm pretty good at arguing and have usually gotten my way in the end.

Not trying to talk anyone into or out of a Deere, but high volume dealers can and will negotiate. I basically got the tractor I wanted, 0% 60month financing, made them price match a comparable kubota, and thanks to my wife they even threw in @$750 Stihl pole chainsaw.

Jason


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SCOTT S. said:

With certain brands I wouldn't have a problem going as far back as a 1970's tractor. My father in law is a farmer and has some new and some very old tractors his take is tractors from the 40's are the most reliable but the newer ones are much nicer to run. I will also be lucky to put 100 hours a year.

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I figure 50 years is about as old as I'd like to run for regular use, based more on parts availability than anything else. So, I do the quick math on how long I plan to keep it, and buy based on that. If buying a new tractor today, and planning to keep it 20-25 years, I'd be shopping 1990-ish models.

I have a 40 hp mahindra and Iam very happy with it. With that being said I'm not trying to sell a brand, just saying I would get the biggest that you can easily afford and are comfortable with having on your property. I liked the mahindra because it doesn't have DEF fluid or a diesel particulate filter. If you are looking at used kubota makes a real nice product, just look for one without these emissions on them. All makes and models have there pluses and minuses, find a dealer close, another reason I went mahindra dealer ten min from the house. Good luck and once you get one put some pics up. Another great thing for a tractor to look at for firewood is a grapple bucket. I got mine this spring and love it best attackment there is for a tractor in my opinion!

I tested a 35HP model and decided on the next model size up. Perhaps you have a neighbor or friend that would permit you to try their tractor on their land, or the dealer has several units to try and dirt to move around on the lot. In the past, I have always been a fan of smaller units that can be easily transported but it always took more time to get all the cheese. The unit I have now is a little of both. At 4700 pounds it is small enough to maneuver through the woods or on a trailer yet I can put the bucket against a decent size tree and push it over and pop the root ball up. Reading over the website www.tractorbynet.com was really helpful for me to choose the tractor I purchased. I was able to read reviews, problems and benefits for each unit.

That about hoe it went for me when I was looking to buy a tractor. Plus they had the 35 hp sitting right next to the 40 hp one. It was just more tractor for not a lot more money. I'm glad I went bigger for the power lifting capacity and the pto hp. I don't think their will be a project I couldn't handle with it. What kind of tractor did you get Virginialron?

VirginiaIron said:

At 4700 pounds it is small enough to maneuver through the woods or on a trailer yet I can put the bucket against a decent size tree and push it over and pop the root ball up.

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True. But the Cat D8 I'm saving up for, I don't even need to use the blade to push a decent sized tree over, I can just back over it! Executing a sharp turn at the same time takes care of the root ball. Waaay more productive. I just hope the neighbors don't snicker because it's not green (it's bright yellow).

I got a 2004 Branson 3520, and lol.... it isn't a D8. I think I would need a couple hundred more acres and a larger truck and trailer to justify it. I get buyers remorse very easily but I have never regretted this purchase. The only problem I had was the fuel gage sender and a weak fuel pump. The battery is the original unit.

blades said:

Just a note older machines eng wise are much simpler no tier3 and 4 +computers to deal with....

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I got an old '51 T020 Ferguson with loader and now I use it for weekly mowing. Parts are plentiful. I replaced the manifolds and rebuilt the starter and just recently replaced the battery after seven years. I have been planning on painting it, but I like red and I have not decided if I want to change the color.


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VirginiaIron said:

I got an old '51 T020 Ferguson with loader and now I use it for weekly mowing. Parts are plentiful. I replaced the manifolds and rebuilt the starter and just recently replaced the battery after seven years. I have been planning on painting it, but I like red and I have not decided if I want to change the color.


View attachment 199997 View attachment 199998 .

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That's a beautiful vintage tractor. I like the way she looks, but around here, with all the humidity and rain, I'd probably give her a fresh paint job just to keep the rust at bay.

ED 3000 said:

That's a beautiful vintage tractor. I like the way she looks, but around here, with all the humidity and rain, I'd probably give her a fresh paint job just to keep the rust at bay.

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Thanks. I'm not much on the paint I'm more of an advocate for functionality and reliability. However there is a contradiction because I do like shiny things and it's nice to look at a piece of equipment that is shiny. A downside to the lack of paint that I do admittedly overlook more on metal than wood is that the surfaces begin to deteriorate. And, unfortunately every time I look at that reliable tractor I do say to myself I need to paint it- or build that three bay garage and get it out of the weather, wink. Thank you for being a voice of affirmation and or encouragement, maybe I'll paint it this fall.

heavy hammer said:

That about hoe it went for me when I was looking to buy a tractor. Plus they had the 35 hp sitting right next to the 40 hp one. It was just more tractor for not a lot more money. I'm glad I went bigger for the power lifting capacity and the pto hp. I don't think their will be a project I couldn't handle with it. What kind of tractor did you get Virginialron?

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After deciding on this model I thought about the 40hp for about $1k more. I was concerned that the same engine was being used at max power and it was a first year design. To me the 5hp was not worth the risk so I passed. FYI- I have not heard any negatives about or problems with this turbo design.

i have a 05 new holland tc30, looks like the branson above only blue. i dont think they are made by them i dont think any of the smaller ones are made by the people you think. i have run a ton of different ones, i think for a home owner though 30 hp is the sweet spot not too heavy, you just end up digging up stuff. the tc30 runs 6ft stuff and will lift 1600 on the back, but with a 5ft brush hog it operates with authority. its 4wd, hydrostatic, 2000lbs without a loader or backhoe and that how it will stay, it doesnt get stuck or dig up the woods or atv paths when i am getting wood or mowing. and i got it for 4k because no one thinks of them when looking. just as reliable as a deere, maintenance costs the same too unfortunately though but they rarely break. i have seen a bunch with the loader for 10k, i got a box blade, and mowers though i dont think i would use a loader certainly not enough justify 4k for a new one. you can do alot with a box blade and it was like 500. i think the only other i will do for it is make a pole to lift logs on the back, that would be handier than just a chain

also dragging and lifting things from that back is way better for the tractor and trying to move heavy stuff then from the front, with a load it gets unstable, and will end up stuck if not 4wd

I will never buy a 2wd tractor ever again. I've had my bucket loaded with my subframe in mud and it kept going. Additionally, I would always have a loader Since it is more reliable, typically, than a hired hand and is always hanging around 24/7. I have used the bucket to get me out of a bind. But for mowing my loader comes off with two pins and 4 quick connect hoses- off in a minute and on in no more than 5. The backhoe is mounted with a subframe and comes off in about 5 minutes and on in about 10. I looked at that very same model and the green equivalent before I made my purchase, my savings were just around $12k for a similarly equipped model. I was told the greens hoe came from the same factory and was painted green.

Having lived with a JD / Yanmar 770 for the past 15 years I can tell you that if you are wanting to move full totes of firewood that you will be a lot happier with a 40+HP CUT ( weight, loader capacity ) vs a 25 - 30HP SCUT. A 700lb round bale is about all my JD can move while still feeling safe. The smaller tractors just don't have the weight to counterbalance big loads ( 1500lbs + ) safely. My buddy has a 40+HP JD CUT and he can work circles around me. His tractor is also a hydrostat. I wouldn't get a geared tractor if you plan on doing a lot of loader work.

I am currently in the market for a new CUT to replace my 770. I have been looking at Kubota MX4800 and JD 4044M or 4044R. The reason I have focused on those two brands:

• Parts are readily available. I won't have to wait for more than a few days.
• Multiple dealerships within a 30 minute drive
• They have a history of making good machines and backing them up.
• I can talk to people on daily basis that have a JD or a Kubota with 5K hours on it. IMHO, this it the biggest one.

sloeffle said:

Having lived with a JD / Yanmar 770 for the past 15 years I can tell you that if you are wanting to move full totes of firewood that you will be a lot happier with a 40+HP CUT ( weight, loader capacity ) vs a 25 - 30HP SCUT. A 700lb round bale is about all my JD can move while still feeling safe. The smaller tractors just don't have the weight to counterbalance big loads ( 1500lbs + ) safely. My buddy has a 40+HP JD CUT and he can work circles around me. His tractor is also a hydrostat. I wouldn't get a geared tractor if you plan on doing a lot of loader work.

I am currently in the market for a new CUT to replace my 770. I have been looking at Kubota MX4800 and JD 4044M or 4044R. The reason I have focused on those two brands:

• Parts are readily available. I won't have to wait for more than a few days.
• Multiple dealerships within a 30 minute drive
• They have a history of making good machines and backing them up.
• I can talk to people on daily basis that have a JD or a Kubota with 5K hours on it. IMHO, this it the biggest one.

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Nothing wrong with what you're saying, but having owned the ever so slightly older and bigger 850, I'll say you can't go on HP alone. A 30 year old diesel CUT rated at 25 - 30 HP is a much more substantial machine than some of the sub-compact toys they rate 25 HP today. My machine is only rated 25 hp, but weighs just shy of 4000 lb with my loader and ballast installed, and I'd be over 4500 lb. if I followed the manual's insistence on filled tires for loader application. You're not going to find many new 4000 lb. machines with 25 hp motors, the way they monkey with HP ratings today, and I still always have more HP than traction on that old machine.

Agreed, loaders should ONLY go on hydrostatic 4x4 machines with power steering. I've driven manual steering and manual geared tractors with loaders, and they are miserable. Putting a loader on a 2wd machine is just dangerous, unless you have the convenience and patience to always back down hills.

I'm surprised you're having an issue with parts on your 770. My Deere dealer still stocks most of what I need for my 1986 machine, or can get anything they don't have inside a day or three. The cost of those parts has been going up each year, though.

Ashful said:

Nothing wrong with what you're saying, but having owned the ever so slightly older and bigger 850, I'll say you can't go on HP alone. A 30 year old diesel CUT rated at 25 - 30 HP is a much more substantial machine than some of the sub-compact toys they rate 25 HP today. My machine is only rated 25 hp, but weighs just shy of 4000 lb with my loader and ballast installed, and I'd be over 4500 lb. if I followed the manual's insistence on filled tires for loader application. You're not going to find many new 4000 lb. machines with 25 hp motors, the way they monkey with HP ratings today, and I still always have more HP than traction on that old machine.

Agreed, loaders should ONLY go on hydrostatic 4x4 machines with power steering. I've driven manual steering and manual geared tractors with loaders, and they are miserable. Putting a loader on a 2wd machine is just dangerous, unless you have the convenience and patience to always back down hills.

I'm surprised you're having an issue with parts on your 770. My Deere dealer still stocks most of what I need for my 1986 machine, or can get anything they don't have inside a day or three. The cost of those parts has been going up each year, though.

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cost of parts for anything has been rising steadily for years. it is a major profit center for dealers and mfg.

Ashful said:

I'm surprised you're having an issue with parts on your 770. My Deere dealer still stocks most of what I need for my 1986 machine, or can get anything they don't have inside a day or three. The cost of those parts has been going up each year, though.

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I have had zero problems with my 770 other than a couple seals going out in my loader. Was able to order the parts online and pick them up from the dealer the next day. Why I am hesitant on getting a new machine. Hard to sell something that you never have problems with. My tractor is 4WD and I always have an implement on the back when doing loader work. Like you said, the manual gear box sucks.

Stupid iPad wouldn't let me quote you twice.

Ashful said:

Nothing wrong with what you're saying, but having owned the ever so slightly older and bigger 850, I'll say you can't go on HP alone. A 30 year old diesel CUT rated at 25 - 30 HP is a much more substantial machine than some of the sub-compact toys they rate 25 HP today.

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Yep, I know my 1959 2WD Fordson could pull around any 60HP built today.

I am going to side with VirginiaIron on this question.. I am the proud owner of a 1952 Ford 8N (and previously a 1950 Ford 8N that I gave to my Father) and could not be happier. The older tractors are so much easier to work on yourself without the reliance of a dealership. Heck, the Old Man and I even sold our John Deere 2210 SCUT with a front end loader because we enjoyed the ease of maintenance on the Ford 8N so much; there isn't a thing you can't do yourself with these old machines maintenance wise. Everything is easily accessible when working on them. Not to mention these tractors pack plenty of power for gasoline engines.

On the other hand, when there was a leaky front axel seal on the John Deere 2210, we had to take it to the dealer so they could remove the entire front end to simply replace a small seal in the front axel.

These reliable tractors can often be purchased in the ball park of $2500-$3000 for a sound working machine along with several attachments, which is even a bigger bonus. If you're not shy to running a gear shift, vintage and reliable tractor, I would take a look at some of the old Ford, Massey Ferguson, Farmall, and International tractors.