Englander 30-NC Install Progress

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Highbeam said:
So first, you need to be sure of what ESW told you. There is the big round hole in the back that is the primary air intake. Right above that hole is a rectangular cutout that is the air supply for the tubes that make up the secondary combustion system. I think they wanted you to block that swqaure one off by 1/3 but do you know? Finally, for the sake of completeness, under the stove in the front two corners are 1/2" holes that both feed the doghouse air inlet. Blocking any and all of those holes is fair game if you feel like the stove is running away on you.

When you inadvertently get it hotter than you would like and you quickly close down the intake rod, the other air inlets will increase air flow into the firebox to relieve the vacuum and cleanly combust the offgassing fuel. It might look like shutting the air control made it worse for a little while but just wait for things to settle. Maybe a few minutes before temps start to react to shutting the air on a ripping non-cat.

I've actually melted the air wash plate on mine by leaving the throttle at 100% for too long when starting a fresh fire. No big deal. I now start the stove at 100% throttle but then back down to 75% or so as soon as possible, then let it warm up to 600 or so before sliding the rod in farther to my cruise setting that tops out in the 700 range. Some folks like you with very strong draft might be closing things down even sooner to maintain control. That is easier than trying to recover and wastes less fuel too!
Click to expand...

Man you got that thing loaded up! I first saw my secondary burn tunes start to glow orange and got a little nervous. Yours had to be going nuclear.

I'm surprised to hear I should be getting my stove top to 700 since it's a double wall stove but I guess if it like to run wide open let it run.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
MDFisherman said:
Man you got that thing loaded up! I first saw my secondary burn tunes start to glow orange and got a little nervous. Yours had to be going nuclear.

I'm surprised to hear I should be getting my stove top to 700 since it's a double wall stove but I guess if it like to run wide open let it run.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

The nc30 is not a double wall stove. Not sure what stove you have but if it really is double wall then I have no idea.

I don't know that you "should" be getting any stove to 700 but I have never seen a plate steel stove that was not perfectly safe at 700. The normal top temp is 800 or when parts glow.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MDFisherman
Highbeam said:
The nc30 is not a double wall stove. Not sure what stove you have but if it really is double wall then I have no idea.

I don't know that you "should" be getting any stove to 700 but I have never seen a plate steel stove that was not perfectly safe at 700. The normal top temp is 800 or when parts glow.
Click to expand...

It's the nch30 from Home Depot. Guess I was wrong the whole time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not to hi-jack the thread, but my PE Summit needs to be at 700-750 when it's really cold outside and I need maximum heat.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Highbeam
Highbeam said:
The normal top temp is 800 or when parts glow.
Click to expand...

Sorry to quote myself but I want to clarify that the normal maximum top temp per the manufacturers that are willing to specify one is 800. The other manufacturers just say, no parts shall glow. Usually the first parts to glow are the collar or the stove top in the middle.

I run my NC30 hard but within the safe temperature zone. I strive to maintain 700-750 which means that sometimes I get coal build up too. It takes a few loads for that to happen but when you're reloading every three hours it can happen.

I like ESW so much I also bought their pellet grill!
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0858.jpg
    IMAG0858.jpg
    105.8 KB · Views: 189
  • Like
Reactions: MDFisherman
OP, what is the measurement from the bottom of the stove to the top? I wasn't sure if the advertised height included the flue connector
 
Sain6815 said:
@Highbeam & @Seasoned Oak , does your stove keep a steady, forceful stream of air through the dog house at all times?
Click to expand...

It sure looks like it does. The wood load always gets a hole cut through it right in front of the doghouse hole. The side wood is the last to burn. I don't know if that is due to the doghouse air or the airwash air that rolls down the center of the glass but whatever. The doghouse air is fed by two external holes in the stove body, full throttle all the time.

This stove is rated to burn very clean and for a large stove that isn't common. Especially a cheap and large stove. Things like the doghouse air keep the temps hot which keep emissions low.
 
Sain6815 said:
Sweet! Started another fire this morning. Just knowing that 700° is a safe range makes operating this stove much easier.
Click to expand...


Dang, how cold is it SC? I'm in Michigan, and still just run the furnace once in the morning for about 30 minutes, and I'm good for the day. I would think you'd be blasted out at this time of year. :)
 
Sodbuster said:
Dang, how cold is it SC? I'm in Michigan, and still just run the furnace once in the morning for about 30 minutes, and I'm good for the day. I would think you'd be blasted out at this time of year. :)
Click to expand...

Haha! It's not very cold. Been in 40's at night.

I've been sweating! We are at the base of the blue ridge mountains so it's slightly cooler here but nothing like Michigan!

Just testing things out before we need the heat starting in late November
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2fireplacesinSC and Sodbuster
Wanted to report back. After reading the advice from other threads, I added a thin piece of aluminum tape across the secondary air supply at the back of the stove. Blocked about 1/4 to 1/3 of the opening and it has made the stove very controllable now!

Before doing this I couldn't achieve the "lazy flame" it just roared all the time. So, at least in my case, I've determined that the dog house isn't the problem. It's honestly nice to have it stoking the coals with steady air. The unrestricted secondary air was just too much and after this little modification it works perfectly now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Highbeam
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Hexa Fox
DuraLiner and Englander 32-NC Install
Replies
28
Views
2K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
brenndatomu
brenndatomu
M
How’s my flue look?
Replies
2
Views
462
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
Mike033089
M
N
Conversion from Oil to Wood Heat
Replies
20
Views
2K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
otsegony
otsegony
R
Two Questions regarding newer Brick Chimney
Replies
14
Views
612
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
begreen
begreen
C
Backdraft issue
Replies
14
Views
447
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
Chris kim
C
Top Bottom
Back