Sharpening chains

Well I'm the biggest idiot on the forum (village idiot?) and I can't sharpen to save my life. Tried a lot of things, but finally I picked up a Timberline (link) and start to finish I'm done sharpening to a razor sharp edge in about 5-8 minutes with cold fingers. It's worth its weight in gold. Just make sure you doublecheck that you order the right carbide blade for your chain.

Also make sure you tighten the tensioner on the back of the sharpener. I usually get it tight, run the sharpener blade a few turns, then tighten the tensioner again and run it. At that point i'm set for the whole chain.

Round File with some sort guide works. I use the husqvarna kit


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the Timber Tuff Upright Bench Mount chainsaw sharpener. It works great and is easy to use. The pitfall to having a bench mount sharpener like this is not being able to take it on the job. But that can be overcome by taking 3 or 4 sharp chains instead.

Tried a buddy's Stihl all in one
Throwing all the other sharping files and jigs I have away
It is fast and every thing that needs to be filed is done
all at once rackers and teeth It is even as good or better
than my fancy pro shop sharpener (grinder ) and faster

I don't like wasting my precious time in the woods on sharpening. I cut until noon, and then swap my chains after lunch. I'll sharpen them by the radio in my heated shop one night the following week, using a chain grinder. Grinders can be had for $100 from Northern Tool, which won't heirloom quality, but will get the job done.

Speaking of which, I'm headed to sharpen some chains now. Got a few loops each of 14", 20" and 28".

johneh said:

Tried a buddy's Stihl all in one
Throwing all the other sharping files and jigs I have away
It is fast and every thing that needs to be filed is done
all at once rackers and teeth It is even as good or better
than my fancy pro shop sharpener (grinder ) and faster

Click to expand...

My experience also. Nothing better than my Stihl 2 in 1. Fast, and very easy to use.

I have never seen anything sharpen as well, check them out online.

Ashful said:

I don't like wasting my precious time in the woods on sharpening. I cut until noon, and then swap my chains after lunch. I'll sharpen them by the radio in my heated shop one night the following week, using a chain grinder. Grinders can be had for $100 from Northern Tool, which won't heirloom quality, but will get the job done.

Speaking of which, I'm headed to sharpen some chains now. Got a few loops each of 14", 20" and 28".

Click to expand...

^^This. I have a Northern Tool sharpener, and it works fine. I did replace the OEM wheel with an Oregon wheel. My chains come out razor sharp and they hold an edge. I take rainy days and sharpen chains, moving them from my "dull" dowel to my "sharp" dowel. Fortunately my cutting area is only 300 yds from my shop, so switching chains coincides with lunch time.

I have tried most and a Dremel beats them all easy choice.

Only takes a few minutes.

Agreed on the Stihl 2 in 1. I used to hand file the teeth with one file, then do the rakers with a flat file. This is much faster and my chains perform better since I started using it. Best 40 bucks or so I ever spent.

Standard round file works great for me, sharpen every tank of fuel. Then after 5-10 filing times remove chain for bench grind and rake adjustment.

Sent from my SM-G900R6 using Tapatalk

Brings the chain back to better than new ... real easy..

Is the depth gauge setting progressive with the 2n1?

Question for you 2in 1 users: are the files in this rig replaceable? Files do wear out, especially on Stihl chain. So can you replace the files, round and flat, in this jig? Or do you drop $40 every season for a new one?

I do similar to Ashful. Rarely do i cut past lunch and hand file in field as needed. Otherwise they get the granberg grindnjoint once wrecked.

BenTN said:

I do similar to Ashful. Rarely do i cut past lunch and hand file in field as needed.

Click to expand...

I guess my post was a little confusing. I cut all day, swapping chains at lunch time on the saws I'm using most, so I can continue cutting all afternoon.

I always enjoy these threads, seeing all the different ways folks have of getting the same job done. I still haven't seen a way that I prefer to my current method, but I'm always hoping I will.

Question on the Dremel rigs... how do you set the compound angle? If it's free-hand, there's no way you're getting consistent grinds without removing more material than necessary to get to the edge on each tooth. Also, how do you maintain equal tooth length? At least the hand filers can count strokes, but how do you remove the same amount from each tooth with a Dremel? Seems hokey.

On a grinder, you measure a few teeth on each side, and dial it in to remove about .010" from the shortest tooth. From there, all teeth will be ground down to match the shortest tooth. In cases of a single badly-damaged tooth, I may ignore that one, and go to the shortest un-damaged tooth. Perfect consistency leads to straight cuts, and I've seen a lot of folks unable to cut straight with their re-sharpened chains.

BenTN said:

Question for you 2in 1 users: are the files in this rig replaceable? Files do wear out, especially on Stihl chain. So can you replace the files, round and flat, in this jig? Or do you drop $40 every season for a new one?

I do similar to Ashful. Rarely do i cut past lunch and hand file in field as needed. Otherwise they get the granberg grindnjoint once wrecked.

Click to expand...

Yes files are quickly swapped out. One end swings open and they drop out. These files seem to last very well in this rig. I can say that in my use, I've seen better than 30 cord bucked before the file started to depreciate.

They really are amazing. But, your ability to hold and maintain consistent tolerances and replicate the same stroking motion can really pay dividends.

Jazzberry said:

Filing the same on each tooth making a big difference is bs. I always file one side of the chain a little shorter (not on purpose just the way it ends up) than the other and it makes no noticeable difference. They cut with the tip not the length.

Click to expand...

You need to take a closer look at chain geometry. The top of the tooth is not parallel to the chain, it is at a negative angle, such that reducing the length of a tooth by sharpening also reduces the tooth height. This is why you need to reduce the height of the depth gauges (called “rakers”, by many here) as you sharpen the chain and reduce tooth length, which is part of the regular process of sharpening any chain.

If your teeth are all different lengths, then they will be different heights. This can be comp’d to some degree by setting each depth gauge at a height relative to that tooth, but that’s a bit of a nightmare to manage. It’ll also result in one tooth taking a bigger or smaller bite than the next. If your teeth on one side are longer (and thus taller) than the teeth on the other, then the chain will always wander toward that side as you cut, as the teeth on one side will be taking larger bites.

If you don’t believe any of this, then skip filing your depth gauges, and see how that chain runs after several sharpenings.

... and before you get all hot and bothered again, note I’m not saying you can’t do a good job with a Dremel. I’m just asking how you manage it, as the bench-mounted grinder seems much simpler and more consistent, to me. I have two Dremel tools, which are very handy for very small odd jobs and crafts, but I’ve never used them for sharpening chains.

I use the 2in1 and it's easy enough for a novice like me

I may have to put one of these 2in1 things on my Christmas list. Read alot of good things about them around the forums.

I've used a cheap HarborFreight bench grinder in the past, but at the prices that the local Amish chainsaw shop charges and the quality of their work I've brought a few chains to them the last few times.

firefighterjake said:

I've used a cheap HarborFreight bench grinder in the past, but at the prices that the local Amish chainsaw shop charges and the quality of their work I've brought a few chains to them the last few times.

Click to expand...

I wish I could find a good shop for that, around here. Most seem to grind off damn near half the tooth, with each sharpening. I guess there’s a conflict of interest, as they also sell new chain loops.

I was going to pic up a 2 in 1 at the shop today, until I saw the $50 price tag. It can't be that good.

BenTN said:

Question for you 2in 1 users: are the files in this rig replaceable? Files do wear out, especially on Stihl chain. So can you replace the files, round and flat, in this jig? Or do you drop $40 every season for a new one?

I do similar to Ashful. Rarely do i cut past lunch and hand file in field as needed. Otherwise they get the granberg grindnjoint once wrecked.

Click to expand...

One reason I bought my el cheapo Northern Freight grinder was that every time I took my chains to be professionally sharpened, they would come back sharp, but blued from heat. With my grinder, I can just spark away slowly till I see all shine using a flashlight. Once I've exposed new steel with the proper angles, it's as sharp as it's going to get. At $25 per loop for Stihl chain, I don't want to send it up in sparks. I do sometimes pull out a hand file, and freehand it after a few tanks. The grinder helps to correct my free handing.

blacktail said:

I was going to pic up a 2 in 1 at the shop today, until I saw the $50 price tag. It can't be that good.

Click to expand...

They are expensive, but they can be had for a little less. Search: Pferd CS-X Chain Sharp Filing Guide