Well that's a bummerI was at Menards tonight, I asked about the HeatPro and the Tundra, they looked 'em up and said "it is a seasonal item that is not available right now"...hmm
Well that's a bummerI was at Menards tonight, I asked about the HeatPro and the Tundra, they looked 'em up and said "it is a seasonal item that is not available right now"...hmm
Right.Well that's a bummer
Right.
I was surprised they couldn't order one in...its not like Drolet closes for the summer!
Yeah I dunno...I should have asked that.If it's a seasonal item and this is the heating season then are they only available in the summer?
. . . if the below 0 weather sticks around for extended periods of time (days) then it makes it very difficult to bring the house temp back up once it falls, so it just maintains. This is the big disadvantage of wood furnaces vs boilers w/ storage. . . . .
I have a 55 gallon natural draft Tarm boiler from 1980. I have no extra storage, only what is “on board” in the boiler. I find the 55 gallons is enough to keep a very constant temperature of 70 Degrees in my 2100 sq. ft. home. I load wood around 10 p.m., once in the middle of the night, and then at 8:00 a.m. the following morning. This would be on a night when the low temp would be 15 degrees. I have “pushed” the boiler load limit and can get by with one load at 10:00 p.m. that will last until 8:00 a.m. I don’t like to do that because the damper control is nearly closed for a good portion of the burn, resulting in a large amount of creosote formation in the boiler. On the worst winter, in the 38 years I have been using the boiler, the temperature one night was -20 degrees and the boiler maintained a constant temperature in the house. Of course, I went through a lot of wood that night.
The boiler will heat the 55 gallons easily in one hour from room temp to 180 degrees. If I have a real hot fire, it will get to operating temp in ½ hour. If the fire does go out, I have heat for about an hour until the circulator shuts off at 100 degrees (the circulator goes on at 120 degrees on start-up).
I like the simplicity of the boiler operation; a mechanical damper (draft) regulator, one hydronic zone valve for control of house temperature (heated by hot water coil in heat pump air handler) and one zone valve for temperature control of domestic hot water in a 40 gallon Amtrol Boiler Mate.
I realize that I burn more wood than a gasifier, but I have an abundance on our property and so far I don’t mind the work for the extra wood requirement. I cut my wood to 19” lengths. The boiler will “digest” any log that has a cross section that will fit through the 10” X 12” loading door.
I am posting this reply for anyone that may find a used boiler and have an interest in using an “old style boiler”. They are trouble free. I have not replaced one part in 38 years of operation. The only maintenance is scraping the loose creosote once a year from the boiler walls and a chimney cleaning once a year. Surprisingly, the chimney stays fairly clean. I could go a couple of years between cleanings but, but once a year is just part of my routine.
John M.
I have a 55 gallon natural draft Tarm boiler from 1980. I have no extra storage, only what is “on board” in the boiler. I find the 55 gallons is enough to keep a very constant temperature of 70 Degrees in my 2100 sq. ft. home. I load wood around 10 p.m., once in the middle of the night, and then at 8:00 a.m. the following morning. This would be on a night when the low temp would be 15 degrees. I have “pushed” the boiler load limit and can get by with one load at 10:00 p.m. that will last until 8:00 a.m. I don’t like to do that because the damper control is nearly closed for a good portion of the burn, resulting in a large amount of creosote formation in the boiler. On the worst winter, in the 38 years I have been using the boiler, the temperature one night was -20 degrees and the boiler maintained a constant temperature in the house. Of course, I went through a lot of wood that night.
The boiler will heat the 55 gallons easily in one hour from room temp to 180 degrees. If I have a real hot fire, it will get to operating temp in ½ hour. If the fire does go out, I have heat for about an hour until the circulator shuts off at 100 degrees (the circulator goes on at 120 degrees on start-up).
I like the simplicity of the boiler operation; a mechanical damper (draft) regulator, one hydronic zone valve for control of house temperature (heated by hot water coil in heat pump air handler) and one zone valve for temperature control of domestic hot water in a 40 gallon Amtrol Boiler Mate.
I realize that I burn more wood than a gasifier, but I have an abundance on our property and so far I don’t mind the work for the extra wood requirement. I cut my wood to 19” lengths. The boiler will “digest” any log that has a cross section that will fit through the 10” X 12” loading door.
I am posting this reply for anyone that may find a used boiler and have an interest in using an “old style boiler”. They are trouble free. I have not replaced one part in 38 years of operation. The only maintenance is scraping the loose creosote once a year from the boiler walls and a chimney cleaning once a year. Surprisingly, the chimney stays fairly clean. I could go a couple of years between cleanings but, but once a year is just part of my routine.
John M.