Thx Ludlow...I did consider moving window at one time but since dealer assured me the given dimensions would work, I didn’t bother moving it. House has vinyl siding on outside.
So close ...(no punn intended)
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Thx Ludlow...I did consider moving window at one time but since dealer assured me the given dimensions would work, I didn’t bother moving it. House has vinyl siding on outside.
And here is photo of outside view of house...from this view, stove pipe would be exiting house between gutter and window.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
Thank you for suggestions, seriously.
But removing a window is something we would rather avoid. We get tons of light through the windows and would like to keep them.
Before I consider any additional structural changes to the house, I would first like to consider all options related to stove pipe geometry....with the most minimal effects to draft.
If that doesn’t work, I will try to find a different stove even.
Your continued suggestions and advice mean a ton! Thx!
Chris
But removing a window is something we would rather avoid. We get tons of light through the windows and would like to keep them.
Before I consider any additional structural changes to the house, I would first like to consider all options related to stove pipe geometry....with the most minimal effects to draft.
If that doesn’t work, I will try to find a different stove even.
Your continued suggestions and advice mean a ton! Thx!
Chris
Generally speaking, two 45 elbows are better than a single 90 from a draft perspective. If you did that, can you get the pipe between the window and corner?
Thank you Yooper...I will try to rig something up to simulate and see if it can be done.
Thank you Ludlow, we are aware of that. Fortunately it is pretty private on that side of house so curtains or blinds won’t be included.
I am not that lucky.
Im sure the elbows will be OK. Being double wall it will draft fine most likely. Then again I'm no expert..
I just cut out a footprint of the F400 and as I read it, WxD is 26.5”x18”...not including the front ash tray. With 10” of clearance required for a corner install, the Castine might just work.
Not thrilled about an increase in stove size from the F3CB but if geometries of stove pipe don’t work with the F3CB, I may consider the F400.
Not thrilled about an increase in stove size from the F3CB but if geometries of stove pipe don’t work with the F3CB, I may consider the F400.
Dealer called me today and seemed very willing to help me make this work with the F3CB. He assured me that he himself will be here within the next several days with options on how to best run stove pipe through wall with no effect on draft.
I would like to see it done with two 45s only but Dealer is suggesting two 45s AND a 90 for asthetic purposes.
In my opinion, the less turns, the better, correct?
I don’t see how bad it will look if install includes the two 45s and not the 90.
I would like to see it done with two 45s only but Dealer is suggesting two 45s AND a 90 for asthetic purposes.
In my opinion, the less turns, the better, correct?
I don’t see how bad it will look if install includes the two 45s and not the 90.
You must have thought of it already, but could you go out the other wall? Or are the porch and stairs too close?
Yes Ben, thank you. I think that either side of the house would work as far as the chimney goes but looking at it from the inside of the house, I kinda have the same problem no matter which wall I use. You see, I constructed the hearth to be simetrical on both walls (due to position of window) and am hoping to keep it that way. I did consider it however.
What is directly above this space? Kneewall or closet space? I would seriously think about going straight up. This will draft the best, avoid the window issue entirely, eliminate elbows, look better, and cost less in parts.
Directly above the hearth is our dining area. This photo is looking into same corner where hearth is on first floor.
Would bringing the stove pipe out from the rear instead of the top help? My 3CB is vented out the rear, although my installation is not a corner install. With the double wall pipe you should be able to get within 6 inches of combustible wall.
Yes, that was my concern too when I saw the outside picture, thus the straight-up inquiry.
OK, straight up is the best way, but I can see that it would take some careful alternative planning like building in a curio cabinet in the corner that enclosed the pipe. Could be done with perhaps some open shelving on the left side, though I agree that she would also need to approve if you want to keep a happy home.
I hear ya. Still, it's easier than our stove relocate which entailed removing an entire fireplace + chimney, reconfiguring the living room layout, relocating the stove, running the new metal chimney up a closet and out the roof. I had to think about that one for a year before I got up the energy to tackle it. But I'm glad I did. It came out great.
You got that right Ludlow LOL
Thanks to everyone for their advice and input.
What I think I’m going to focus on is a pair of 45s to get me out of the house. Hopefully that works.
As for the roof...I didn’t consider hitting a truss. Hmmm. Fingers crossed at this point.
Thoughts on this mock-up? Some old heating tubes I had and a pair of 45s.
Just an idea to get thimble away from window enough and between the studs that are behind the hardibacker.
And maybe I can get some more distance between the two 45s to soften the bend.
Just an idea to get thimble away from window enough and between the studs that are behind the hardibacker.
And maybe I can get some more distance between the two 45s to soften the bend.
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