Purchased new Oslo today! On to the brickwork...

Finally purchased a new Oslo today. Asking price was something in the range of $2470, $2700 something for delivery. Made the deal at $2500 with delivery included, which I thought was reasonable. New in the box, matte black with the decorative face.

Place I went to in NH was pretty much hassle free. I could tell they were slow for the season. It was really a quick in and out, easy purchase.

I have the next few months to construct the hearth and install the chimney before winter. I’m doing it solo, to code and will need it inspected by the town fire department for insurance. So expect to see some more questions from me in the coming weeks.

begreen said:

Congratulations. Summer buying a wood stove can be super easy. Post a picture of the proposed hearth location if there are questions.

Click to expand...

I think we went through this back in March in a different post lol. We’re still undecided on the location. I like the easy spots, the Wife likes complicated.

Every time we look at the stove it seems bigger and bigger. You guys/gals are used to seeing one everyday. I’m not just yet, so it seems huge. After spending some more time with it today I’m definitely not putting it in a corner or alcove type thing. We only need to heat 1500sqft. Albeit old and drafty, I’m sure the stove will cook us out of the house no matter where we put it.

Currently I’m researching hearth designs, more specifically brick. Picked up 400+ brick from an 1800’s chimney tear down. They’re in pretty good condition and will match the house well.

Im also looking at chimney pipe. Our roof is something in the range of 10/12 pitch so we’ll need to go 2’ above the ridge no matter where we exit out the roof(s). Will need approximately 19’ of stove/chimney pipe. Was considering buying the parts from Lowe’s if it’s any good. Very little reviews on it however.

jotul8e2 said:

1500 sq. ft. in New Hampshire is pretty much right in the wheelhouse for a Jotul Oslo.

Old is ok; drafty is not good. They are the reason our New England ancestors developed high backed wing chairs. Drafts effectively reduce your living area to those locations either out of the draft or close to the stove. A concerted effort against the sources of the drafts will allow you to be much more comfortable at lower temperatures while giving you back the full use of your house.

The Oslo likes a good draw in its flue. I am a big fan of insulated pipe all the way up. It really helps reduce the creosote deposits.

Click to expand...

The house is an antique cape. Fortunately the previous owners took decent care of it. I had thermal imaging done before I bought (in January) and the walls and ceilings are well insulated. The doors and windows however... even with new weatherstripping they’re drafting. The windows are about 15 year old Anderson’s give or take and the doors... don’t even know... and I have three exterior doors in this house. A project for another time. Hopefully getting them done before winter.

I figured about 19’ of double insulated pipe would work well. Or at least double insulated pipe for the chimney and double wall, standard, for interior clearances. Unless someone will suggest otherwise. If I decide to go through the kitchen, probably 24’ of pipe will be needed. Either way it should be y’all enough for a good draft. I’m going to avoid putting any bends in the pipe. Will be going straight up and out.

xman23 said:

That's my Oslo to the left. It's in a corner, which for me was the best location. It's in a large open floor plan room, cathedral room. So location within the room doesn't change the heating a lot. Because of all the clearances, we didn't want to loose more floor space. What we like most about the location is, the stove is a focal point. Where we sit or from any other place you can see a rolling fire ball in the stove.

The hearth could be fairly easy. It only requires ember protection. I laid 2 inch stone on the sub floor. The chimney location for access and the ceilings and roof you need to go thru is a bigger deal. Biggest issue is making a chase for the 1' X 1' ceiling box. There's ceiling and roof rafters up there.

Your in the right place to discover all the pit falls of this project before you start. If you have some carpentry construction skills you should be fine.

Keep us posted with pictures and question as the project progresses.

Tom

Click to expand...

We have a good idea of where we're the location will be, somewhere in the kitchen. The kitchen is in between the living room and dining room. the ceiling is vaulted, or cathedral as some would say. It goes up about 16 or 17 feet. There is no second floor in this area, just one big room. There's a brick wall in this room that we're planning on sticking the stove. Currently there's some cabinetry, a sink and dishwasher here. They previous owners had the place renovated really weird. There's also lighting fixtures and a shelf jutting out over this area that will have to be removed. It's a project but that's I think where our number one location is now.

Simonkenton said:

You did well on the price. I was going to buy one in Asheville NC two years ago for $2800. I was going to pick it up myself.
I did not know that you could negotiate on wood stove price. On a whim, the day before I was going to get that stove, I called the guy over in Black Mountain and he was going to sell me an Oslo for $2500.
So I ran that by the Asheville guy, and got the Asheville stove for $2500.

I am a big strong guy and my construction helper is a big strong guy, and I have a pickup truck, and it was no fun picking up that stove I highly recommend getting it delivered like you did.

Click to expand...

I called around first to get some prices. The guys at each shop were pretty firm over the phone and pretty well matched in price too. I figured it was a lot harder for them to say no in person. Each shop had a delivery fee of roughly $300. I ended up going to a shop about 30 miles away, I hadn't called. I sealed the deal for basically $2200 for the stove with a $300 delivery. All I did was tell him I wanted the Oslo TODAY and I needed it delivered for $2500 out the door. It was really that easy. I was in and out of that particular shop in about 20 minutes.

I'm a pretty fit guy, but it would have been just me moving that 400lb monster. I don't have a truck. My only helper would have been my 130lb wife. Sure $2200 would have been an amazing deal had I picked it up, but I'll pay the $300 for the two strong guys with the gear to bring it and save my back/knees.

On a side note; I'm currently modeling my entire kitchen/dining area in Sketchup down to the .5" trying to figure out a game plan for this stove. I'll probably start a build thread in a few weeks with all the pictures and fancy stuff.

kennyp2339 said:

Great idea, just remember that the brick wall may or may not be considered non combustible (we're not there to see the orientation of it) code for non combustible brick is 8" thick (solid masonry) if its just one row thick of brick laid with combustibles behind it then you will have to follow the stoves minimum combustible clearances, if you build a heat shield and anchor it to the brick using 1" spacers then you can bring the stove closer to the wall (protected wall clearance)
The hearth will need to be a minimum 16" past the loading doors, I believe your stove only requires ember protection for the hearth, but check your manual, you may want to consider making the front hearth flush with the existing floor if the hearth extents into any walking spaces.
Your on the right path with wanting to use double wall black chimney pipe in the living space and transitioning to double wall insulated class a pipe to go through the ceiling and to the outdoors, since your already past the 16ft mark on the inside portion of the house your draft should be more than sufficient.

Click to expand...

What if there's nothing on the other side of the wall but another open room? This is a 109"(wide) brick wall that separates the kitchen from the living room. It's only one course thick. There are some exposed timbers running through it, but they're closer to the top.

Currently there's a poorly placed sink and dishwasher in front of it, but I've attached a fairly accurate model of what it would look like. Aside from the framing around that little window, those large timbers go clear through to the other side of the wall. But there's nothing on that side but another open room (living room).

begreen said:

Going straight out the back locks the flue exit height to the thimble which may work for the Oslo, but not for a future stove choice. Instead of going straight out the back of the stove with the stove pipe to a thimble, what about going either straight up or up and then to a 90º thru that opening with a class A tee?

Click to expand...

I’d be running the stove pipe straight up from the stove out the ceiling. That little window is like a decorative feature or something. It goes into the living room. Kids call it the “pizza window”. Above the living room is an actual bedroom.

That brick wall is an interior wall. Maybe I’m just getting confused now?

begreen said:

The picture and references to what was behind the wall made me think you might be considering rear venting. Straight up is good.

Click to expand...

Hopefully this picture helps you out. It's a really rough sketch of the entire 1st floor. I'm still learning this software so it's not perfect. Dimensionally its accurate. I'm missing a lot more windows and doors but you get the picture. This is a layout my wife and I can both agree on. I like it because the stove in located centrally. She likes it because its pretty.

The other two locations would be in front of the large window presented in the same room, next to a door. Or in the furthest back room where I believe you suggested several months ago when I was considering buying the unit. I have these locations marked in the picture.

My only concern with this is getting heat into the rooms behind the stove. With the rear heat shield, how much heat comes out the back of this thing? I have the stove placed just over 6" from the exposed timbers. Will the brick act like a heat exchanger and work out? Should I remove a portion of the bricks as they aren't load bearing to allow more heat to pass? The big doorway next to the stove is almost exactly 48". There's no door there, just an opening framed by 8*8 timbers that are load bearing.

The ceilings in the room that this stove will be in are vaulted as mentioned. There is a ceiling fan and it's high up, about 12'.

begreen said:

Honor or exceed the stove and stove pipe required clearances to combustibles and it will be fine. There will be some heat warming up the brick but most will be radiated from the sides, top and front. Would placing a quiet fan in the pass-thru window, blowing into the stove room be an option? That would help circulate heat.

Click to expand...

Yes that’s definitely an option.

Given the mass of this stove I don’t think it will have any issues throwing heat no matter where I put it. I don’t expect it to hit the very back bedrooms or 2nd floor too much I do have forced hot air if I need it.

I like planning ahead before I start these projects. I will be renovating these rooms as a winter project. Finding the ideal spot for this is crucial as I will not be moving it once it’s there. So I thank you for the advice.

And it’s finally at the house!

Simonkenton said:

Hubsch! Beautiful! Reminds me of what happened at my house 2 years ago.

I tell you what the fire view on this stove is superb. A 20 degree day, the wind is blowing and it is snowing, you sit on the sofa and look at that fire in that beautiful Norwegian stove, that is a wonderful thing.

Click to expand...

It sure is a handsome stove. I’m glad I had it delivered. Only took two guys and a dolly to move it in to the house in five minutes. Now that it’s here I can hardly slide it across the floor. I would have died moving this thing solo.