No. Life got a hold of my time! I’ll worry about it after the burning season.
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Enviro Wood Stoves
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No. Life got a hold of my time! I’ll worry about it after the burning season.
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The manual says to put a Phillips head screw driver into one of the holes and use it to slide the tube to the right. I just tapped the screw driver gently sideways with a hammer and it worked perfectly.
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SculptureOfSound
Feeling the Heat
NoGoodAtScreenNames
Feeling the Heat
I’m pulling off the surround on my Boston to do some inspection after a fire a little too hot for comfort (separate thread on that).
While I’ve got the surround off I was going to add Roxul behind the insert. The Roxul would be right up against the convective jacket in the back.
Does anyone know where the air inlets are? I can’t really tell from the pic in the manual if there is a separate air intake going to the back or if it comes from the front. I don’t want to block them off with the Roxul.
Anybody know for sure?
While I’ve got the surround off I was going to add Roxul behind the insert. The Roxul would be right up against the convective jacket in the back.
Does anyone know where the air inlets are? I can’t really tell from the pic in the manual if there is a separate air intake going to the back or if it comes from the front. I don’t want to block them off with the Roxul.
Anybody know for sure?
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Don't know for sure on the insert but I would anticipate on inlet in the bottom front and one toward the bottom rear. See if you can get a flashlight shining under the insert and follow the air control linkage.
I think I've decided on the Venice 1700. Seems to be the biggest and best looking stove that will fit my fireplace. Not a huge fan of the surround but I plan on getting the trimmable option that way I can trim it almost to the edge of my brick so I can still have as much brick exposed as possible. My only concern is at the rear it calls for a 22 3/8 width. This would pretty much put the stove touching my bricks on the back edges.(This is ok I assume since it is already a functional fireplace)?? There will be room behind it though as my depth is 22 3/4 but it tapers as it goes back. The house is a ranch 1450sq ft. living room/kitchen/dining are all pretty open. I won't blow myself out will I? Living room is only 17x11 but there is a 9ft bay window and 5 ft opening into the kitchen. Ceilings through out are 8 ft. This is where it will be going.
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Touching the bricks is ok. If it is tight a bit of the brick can be ground out for a better fit. Make sure mantel clearances are proper.
It's a beautiful insert. You control the amount of heat generated by the amount of fuel loaded, the species of wood and the amount of air the fire is given.
I think that stove will do a great job for you with that setup.
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I know your post is several months old at this point; I’ve been away for a while. Did you end up purchasing this stove? I would imagine that stove would do the job just fine. My 1700 heats 2,000+ sf.
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Getting ready to clean my blower for the first time, and looking for some help in accessing the blower. A few people have posted the steps for accessing the blower on the Kodiak. I thought someone had posted the steps for the Boston as well, but I can't seem to find the post. So far I have:
1. Taken the top plate off (slid right off, no screws needed to be removed)
2. Taken the side panel off on the lefthand side (slid right off)
3. Taken the door off (slid right off)
Do I need to take surround off in order to remove the blower? There are a bunch of screws in the region of the blower. Does anyone know which specific screws need to be removed in order to remove the blower assembly?
1. Taken the top plate off (slid right off, no screws needed to be removed)
2. Taken the side panel off on the lefthand side (slid right off)
3. Taken the door off (slid right off)
Do I need to take surround off in order to remove the blower? There are a bunch of screws in the region of the blower. Does anyone know which specific screws need to be removed in order to remove the blower assembly?
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NoGoodAtScreenNames
Feeling the Heat
Don’t remove the blower. Just blow it out with a compressor from the top and bottom. Didn’t need to remove door either.
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NoGoodAtScreenNames
Feeling the Heat
You can loosen the 3 screws on the left in your pic. You can then remove the frame that held the side panel for a little better access. It swings like a door but can be lifted out.
When you put everything back don’t tighten anything but the three screws I just mentioned. Everything else can be held in place by gravity. Not sure about the door, I’ve never taken that off.
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Ok, thanks. That's a pretty easy process. So you just stick the compressor hose into the fan and that just knocks stuff loose? And then you vacuum it out?
NoGoodAtScreenNames
Feeling the Heat
Pretty much. Some combination of fingers for fur and hair, compressor and vacuum for dust does the trick.
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I would recommend vacuuming what you can before hitting it with a compressor or blower. The less dust in the air, the better. Get ready for a pretty big cloud of dust! Although I think you only have one year of burning on your stove if I remember correctly. I had four or five on it before it did it!
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I’m on my third fire tonight on a “new to me” 2006 model 1600 insert. So far with 21ft of ss liner in a clay flue it’s a little more fussy than my lopi. But after the flu gets hot she seems to take off good.
I do wish I had the bypass but I have just scooted the front 2 bricks forward untill I think the flu has heated up. This really helps speed up a good draft and it seems to work so far.
I do wish I had the bypass but I have just scooted the front 2 bricks forward untill I think the flu has heated up. This really helps speed up a good draft and it seems to work so far.
I need to change my door gasket and add a thermometer to my kodiak 1700. Just read the owners manual. Nothing on gasket size. I saw 1 inch thickness after a quick Google search. Is this correct? Also how are those kits on Amazon? They seem to have some good ratings for the price and if I need to change it every 2 years or so at that price I'm ok with that. As for thermometer, what is a good brand and where is a good place to mount it. Thanks in advance!
NoGoodAtScreenNames
Feeling the Heat
You can try this for oem parts:
https://www.stove-parts-unlimited.c...MIuoi8n9_73QIVG7jACh0qZAfZEAAYASAAEgK5cPD_BwE
For the thermometer it depends on if you have an insert or freestanding. Obviously options are easier with a freestanding and you can experiment and pick what works.
For inserts, people tend to have good luck with IR guns. They are pretty cheap on Amazon and you can point it into the air outlet to get a good reading.
I’ve also been experimenting with an Auber thermometer, washer style, with a digital display and alarm. Last year I had it on the stove top held down with a magnet. I’m experimenting now with different placements. I tried attaching it to a screw on the collar which was ok, but the reading was a lot lower than the stovetop. Right now I have it shoved between the collar and the liner adapter. I just need some cold weather to test out that placement. Depending on the type of liner you have, you may have more options.
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You're right - only one year.
I took a look, and actually couldn't see any dust/hair, so that was encouraging! The main reason I wanted to clean it was that it had gotten louder as the year went on. However, I realized when I was taking of the panels to access it that all of the noise was coming from vibration of the side panel which hides the fan. The side panel hangs off of some screws, which are hand tightened. The screws had loosened, allowing the panel to vibrate. I simply tightened the screws, and now I can't hear the fan anymore.
Hopefully this helps someone else who's fan has gotten louder.
On my second burn in the 1700. First real one for me. This is a pic after an hour. Fan kicked on after 30 minutes. It has some ash and one piece of pine. Should I load this more than the 4 average size logs? Wood is right at 20%. The damper is 3/4 open. Trying to learn but it's tough working a lot during the week.
Keep practising, especially on the weekends. You will be able to load it full of wood. Once the fire is burning hot like this keep closing down the air until the flames get lazy, but not out. Let the fire regain strength, then close it down some more. If draft is decent you should be able to run the stove with the air control at least 75% closed if not more. As the air is closed down you will see stronger secondary burn under the tubes. This is normal and where the real heat is produced. Enjoy the light show.
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