question about block off plate

The more I look at it the more I think you’ll be fine adding the plate. I had three bricks of clearance. You have two which will make it a little harder but certainly do-able. You were able to reach in and take pics so it’s not like you can’t reach in at all.

Start on the top front edge and angle it down a little towards the back if needed. Support it with a couple bricks, some lumber you have lying around, whatever you got to support it vertically while positioning and screwing it in. Do a two piece or my U method. Whatever seems easier. Roxul on top, sealant on the edges - done.


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NoGoodAtScreenNames said:

The more I look at it the more I think you’ll be fine adding the plate. I had three bricks of clearance. You have two which will make it a little harder but certainly do-able. You were able to reach in and take pics so it’s not like you can’t reach in at all.

Start on the top front edge and angle it down a little towards the back if needed. Support it with a couple bricks, some lumber you have lying around, whatever you got to support it vertically while positioning and screwing it in. Do a two piece or my U method. Whatever seems easier. Roxul on top, sealant on the edges - done.


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I agree. This is about how much space I had two weeks ago. Tight fit, yes. But also very doable. Especially with a 2 piece install.

crater22 said:

O.K.. I spoke with Buck this AM and they said no insulation anywhere. Block off plate is correct. They even suggested that I contact the dealer who sub contracts the work out, and let them know that sooner or later this guy would burn somebody's house down. Debating on this. Now I do have one more question and I will get off this topic. There is a piece of asbestos type insulation wrapping around the liner and top of stove (picture to follow) . Should I remove this as well in order to given me a better/tighter fight around the liner?

I can not thank you guy's enough. Really appreciate it.

RickView attachment 231252

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I would remove the wrap around the liner and then seal any gaps between the block off plate and the liner with stove cement or another high temp sealant. The key is to stop airflow up and out the chimney. Sealing all cracks and gaps accomplishes this.

Agreed on removing the existing insulation on the liner. It’s not doing anything since it doesn’t go very far up and based on them using fiberglass it’s very possible that is regular duct wrap insulation for bathroom and heating vents not stove liner insulation. I could be wrong but don’t risk it.

Edit: The Roxul should be a nice snug fit around he liner on the top of the plate. You don’t want to be able to see a gap between the liner and the plate not filled by the Roxul. Roxul a really easy to cut and work with - it will stay put up there fine if you cut it to fit. Make a hole in the Roxul slightly smaller than the liner so it’s snug.

Bushels20 said:

The key is to stop airflow up and out the chimney. Sealing all cracks and gaps accomplishes this.

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Exactly.

Bushels20 said:

I would remove the wrap around the liner and then seal any gaps between the block off plate and the liner with stove cement or another high temp sealant.

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But I will disagree with you, here. Don't use cement or sealant, it makes servicing anything more difficult, and is really unnecessary. Cut some roxul to match your block off plate, and set it atop the plate. Try to make it snug in the opening, and this will be your block against air infiltration.

Ashful said:

Exactly.


But I will disagree with you, here. Don't use cement or sealant, it makes servicing anything more difficult, and is really unnecessary. Cut some roxul to match your block off plate, and set it atop the plate. Try to make it snug in the opening, and this will be your block against air infiltration.

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Most likely a very valid point. Now that you say so, I’m probably doing to be kicking myself In a few years if i have service the insert/install a new (better!) one, since I am on my first unit. I am constantly hunting “the next best thing.” I really want a BK princess.

Although thinking about it; isn’t using Tapcons in the plate about as unserviceable as cement or sealant?

Bushels20 said:

Most likely a very valid point. Now that you say so, I’m probably doing to be kicking myself In a few years if i have service the insert/install a new (better!) one, since I am on my first unit. I am constantly hunting “the next best thing.” I really want a BK princess.

Although thinking about it; isn’t using Tapcons in the plate about as unserviceable as cement or sealant?

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Tapcons may not be the most serviceable solution, but they can (usually) be backed out without much trouble. Mine are each made the same way, with perf’d angle tapcon’d or anchored into the masonry, and then a heavy stainless sheet cut to size sitting atop that, and insulation on top of that. There are a few sheet metal screws up thru the perf angle into the stainless plate.

To remove, just remove the sheet metal screws, push the plate up up, turn it on an angle, and drop it down. It’s not the most convenient thing, with the liner penetrating it, but it can be removed and re-inserted without enormous work.