PE Summit Insert - Can't Choke Airflow Enough!

I am not familiar with that stove, but that looks like a crankin' low burn.

Have you checked the stove for air leaks, especially the gaskets?

Have the same problem with my Alderlea insert after insulating the flex liner. How tall is your chimney? Mine is about 23 ft, and after insulating it the draft was a bit too much for the minimum air control setting. I ended up removing the limiting tab on the air control and installed an Auber thermometer (https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=292) to monitor flue temps.

Check all your gaskets like jetsam recommended, after that get a thermometer to keep track of flue temps. I found out I was letting the stove burn at high setting far too long during startup. My stove is reaching flue temps of 700F after about 3-5 minutes from a cold start. Turning down the air sooner will prevent the stove from getting so hot early in the burn.

I have an idea, but with an insert in would be a PIA.

Sodbuster said:

I have an idea, but with an insert in would be a PIA

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If you were thinking a of a flue damper, I thought about it too, and you are right , it would be PIA. Designing some kind of linkage and drilling a hole through the surround would be a way to lessen the inconvenience of using a draft damper on an insert.

Try temporarily affixing a piece of flat stock over your primary air inlet, under the stove, so it butts up tight to the air damper when fully closed. If this doesn't fix the issue, it has to be gaskets.

What I see is normal secondaries, and how it is meant to operate.. Larger splits will slow it down some, but at some point the secondaries will kick in, that is the nature of the stove. You can block off the primary more at the lever if you're creative enough, but what you see is how it is intended to operate.

It also has the pup's approval.

What temps are you getting? Might be normal as hog and BG say.

Try closing the air down sooner. If you are cutting her back at 500, it's too late. With good dry wood and a good bed of coals, try cutting her back in the 350ish area, and see how it responds. You can always give more air if it stalls, but you ain't going to slow her down once she is chugging along. Big splits, less air space, crank air down sooner. I think with some experimentation, you'll find the tricks for your set up.

begreen said:

Looks pretty normal to me

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Looks like his stove is pulling a lot more air than yours is here...

Log Splitter said:

Back for another wood burning season!

I've had a PE Summit for a couple years now. For the most part, I'm happy with the stove. My biggest issue is inability to restrict airflow to the box. Even at the lowest setting, I'm still blazing away:


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Then to prevent getting too hot, I have to positively use my other issue which is the fact that the fan will cool down the stove when on high. So I crank the fan up to prevent the box from getting too hot.


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Any ideas how to restrict airflow? The higher temp/faster burn would be good in some instances, but there are plenty of times I'd like to cook that wood at a lower temp.

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Log Splitter, have you ever tried burning EW vs NS? I'm toying with that tonight with my Summit, and so far, I have much more control. YMMV

Is there some EPA standards on that stove? The newer versions mayhave holes drilled in to prevent low draft that you can’t control. Some people have found them and plugged them. Just a thought. Dave T.

I have had the same issue with my Summit insert series C -mfgd 10/2014. Tried all other recommendations given here but still had issues with running hotter than I wanted. E/W orientation helped somewhat but I prefer N/S loading. I have two temp gauges, one above left and right corners of door placed on stove front . With a full load for overnight burns, I would often spike to 750 +degrees for short periods 1-2 hours at longest.
I tried putting magnets over two of the six intake holes on the intake manifold at front of stove floor. That made little difference.
So what I did for this burning season ( about one month so far): I did not have to move the stove. You can remove the front cover under the ash lip (two screws) then sliding the cover forward over air control lever. You then can remove the front ash lip (two nuts). You will see how the lever slides horizontally and increases/decreases the air intake to the stove (circular hole in stove body) by changing the size of intake opening ( volume of air allowed in). With lever in far right position (lowest intake setting) you will see the L angle welded to the stove body acting as a stop as to how far to the right the lever will move. I used an oscillating tool to notch into the L angle. The metal blade was just the correct thickness to match the thickness of the lever. I carefully ensured that the notch was flush with stove body and the lever slides smoothly into the notch of the L angle therefore allowing the lever to move farther to the right than the factory setting. As the lever moves at an angle,I cut the L angle notch with the same angle as the arc of the moving lever. This allows more air flow control and complete shut off if desired. I felt that the factory placement of the L angle was too conservative and allowed too much air in at the lowest setting and did not allow for complete shut off of the air intake.
So far this mod has provided positive results. You have to be careful that you do not starve the fire for air, but with more use you learn how to fine tune and not be too restrictive with the air intake. If deposits accumulate on the glass in the door, you are running too lean. I run a hotter fire periodically to help prevent creosote build up with the leaner burns. I also re-learned how to recharge and existing fire when it burns down to hot coals, I make sure I pull hot coals to the front of the stove floor being careful not to cover the air intake holes in the front manifold cover. I also changed the length of wood I burn to 16-18 inch length, which helps to keep from blocking the same holes with ash during overnight burns. When replacing the ash lip, take care to not pinch the wiring harness and ensure that the harness is correctly placed in retaining clips.
I am by no means as experienced as others who post here and I sought help from them and appreciate their input with their knowledge. There may be some who are not comfortable with this mod because of safety concerns/not recommending altering factory settings and I understand that position. I am retired and am able to watch the stove's operation and am comfortable with doing the mod. Sorry for the long post but I wanted to be thorough as it appears to have helped with my controlling and fine tuning this heating machine. Good luck.

I agree with Hogwildz my stove seems to operate about the same as yours. I don't know if you can chock the stove enough to really cut all the air. I know the more I cut the air once it is going the hotter it gets. I do agree with adding larger pieces and a tighter burn stacking will help. I have seen temps close to the red on the temp gauge but usually by then the blower is on. If you want to have less heat try having smaller quicker fires. The other thing that Hogwildz has mentioned to me over the last couple of years as well as here is start closing the air sooner, it does help if your wood is nice and dry I doubt that the fire will stall. Your temp gauge what is the hottest temps you have seen?

On a full load I'm consistently over 650, normally pushing 700. I've seen 740 on the IR this year. I don't get too concerned. The key is low flue temps. My stove will have my liner over fired in less than 10 minutes if I leave the air fully open on full reload.

After the resurfacing of the cracked weld issue here the past few days, I inspected my A series yesterday and all is still good. I don't think 750 and under will hurt this stove.

dtrykow said:

Is there some EPA standards on that stove? The newer versions mayhave holes drilled in to prevent low draft that you can’t control. Some people have found them and plugged them. Just a thought. Dave T.

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That hole should be just to the right of the hole for the air control.....PITA to get to but ive plugged mine with a ball of aluminum foil....it chocks the fire way down....i usually pop it out this time of year for hotter fires....

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