Why such a short burn?
- Thread starter deborita3
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Rearscreen
Minister of Fire
SculptureOfSound
Feeling the Heat
black smoke signals
Feeling the Heat
Yes they get lazy, flare up and get lazy again. I don't know how tall the chimney is. It runs up the side of the house. I had a new liner put in a couple months ago. It's not insulated at the bottom because I was told there wasn't enough room to insulate it but it was insulated at the top. I was told this wouldn't have any effect on heating the stove.
SculptureOfSound
Feeling the Heat
If yourey getting it to 650 I doubt it's wet wood. Sounds like too much air getting in the firebox (although lazy flames sort of contradicts this).
With my insert I found my primary air to close down enough but I get too much air through my secondary tubes. This causes the wood to burn hot and fast.
Did you try the dollar bill test on the door?
With my insert I found my primary air to close down enough but I get too much air through my secondary tubes. This causes the wood to burn hot and fast.
Did you try the dollar bill test on the door?
black smoke signals
Feeling the Heat
The wood is between 15" and 17"
black smoke signals
Feeling the Heat
My had done the test and the bill comes out. We need to get a new gasket. Could this be the problem?
I have found when I out the blower on it lowers the temp which makes sense. I was putting the blower on medium but lowered it to low speed. The problem with lowering the blower is that the house doesn't get as warm obviously as it does when the blower is higher.
The wood is a combination of oak, maple and locust
black smoke signals
Feeling the Heat
The liner was insulated at the top. I was told it could not be insulated down below because there wasn't enough room to do it.
SculptureOfSound
Feeling the Heat
Yup, first thing to do is replace the gasket.nif the problem still exists we can troubleshoot further but a loose door gasket will inevitably lead to too much air and short burn times
SculptureOfSound
Feeling the Heat
Well for code reasons the liner should be insulated but I was actually asking because an insulated liner can lead to increased draft, and I thought you might have too much draft. That too can lead to short burn times and reduced heat.
black smoke signals
Feeling the Heat
The entire liner is suppose to be insulated? Does this vary from state to state or is this the case in every state. Is it a safety issue if the liner is not insulated?. I will have to call the place that installed it.
The living room has a vaulted ceiling, the other rooms all have a normal size ceiling. It's a ranch house.
The upstairs is 1070 sq ft
SculptureOfSound
Feeling the Heat
Bholler is the expert on this but yes it is for safety reasons in the case of a chimney fire. The insulation helps stop the heat spread and greatly reduces the chance of a chimney fire turning into a house fire.
I think external chimneys need a 1" clearance to all combustibles to be up to code and very few have that. Without that 1" clearance an insulated liner is required.
I think external chimneys need a 1" clearance to all combustibles to be up to code and very few have that. Without that 1" clearance an insulated liner is required.
Unless you have 1" of clearance between the outside of the masonry structure and any combustible material (which having that clearance is very unlikely) you are absolutly required to have an insulated liner.
black smoke signals
Feeling the Heat
I wasn't told that when it was installed. I will call Monday to find out. Thank you for the information!
